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grujfo1

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About grujfo1

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  • Present cars
    2006 997s LN Engineering 4.0 litre; gt silver/terracotta
  1. congratulations! "i almost got into a fight with my mechanic"--brings back memories…i am sure he did an excellent job. one thing i did experience was MAF and Cat and sensor and knocking issues (check engine lights, sometimes blinking, sometimes not, codes such as P420, p1097, p2195) i used a bottle is isoheet every tankful for a month and everything went away. has not come back since. is this new config engine more sensitive to water in the fuel? i dunno. thought i would mention it as your car is being put away for the season, something like this may arise when you start to play again come spring. congrats again. all is well that ends...
  2. hello arthur li, 1. sorry to hear about "the issue" but, if the funds are available, i think you will be pleased with the result. 2. necessary mods: i did ask around about that (i shop where the car was at and i called up Charles at LN engineering) the answer was no. sooo, for kicks i got the low temp thermostat, ipd plenum, and third radiator 3. since the rebuild, everything has been running well. i am now at 160K miles getting 24 MPG in the city! 4. good luck
  3. Uwon, 1. i'm not particularly patient. at some point, it became evident to me that the problem was beyond my control 2. first water pump failed and was replaced around 32,000 miles. 3. the low-temp thermostat: oil temps appear to heat up just as quick but the oil temp is much quicker to cool down when things get hot (>225 degrees Fahrenheit) .
  4. I haven't seen on these forums anyone who has rebuilt their 997.1 using LN Engineering nickies. I just thought I'd share my experiences. I had a stock 997.1 2006 Carrera S. At 132,000 i scored a cylinder in the middle of nowhere in Kansas. the rebuild consisted of: 1. LN Engineering 4.0 “nickies”, ceramic hybrid ball-bearing IMS retrofit, and JE Pistons2. LN Engineering low temperature thermostat3. 997.1 "Competition" Carrera IPD Plenum & GT3 throttle body 4. third radiator 5. replaced water pump the ever so quick summary: low end power--amazing. mid range--amazing. high range rpms--amazing. for those of use that like the “feel” of a 996 and 997.1 (the 997.2 and the 991 are, to my mind, fundamentally different in this regard), this rebuild results in an intoxicating drive. I haven’t put this thing on a dyno and to be honest i’m not all that interested. the horsepower gains are so prominent, it would simply be an academic exercise to establish that I have from +60hp to +75hp--it’s that impressive.Things to keep in mind This turned out to be a very long process. if you are deciding on doing this, please check with LN Engineering to understand what tools are required. I had my car rebuilt twice by a nationally renowned porsche mechanic (he has won several awards on his expertise in building porsche race engines) at a porsche dealer. the first time didn’t go well as there was a chip in one of the pistons that required them to do it again. what went wrong? i don't really know. on the one hand, upon looking at the old water pump after the second rebuild, all the "fins" were chipped away and indeed the pieces may have found a way to the piston. on the other hand, there appears to have been special tools that even they didn’t have to properly install the pistons the first time around (this is my interpretation of what representatives at JE Pistons and LN Engineering told me). they purchased the necessary equipment the second time around and the result is amazing. Ladies and Gentleman, there aren't many porsche shops in the United States that have opened up a 997.1 engine and put it together again successfully. This particular shop had three mechanics who regularly open up 997.1 engines. The mechanics at Aristocrat Motors in Kansas City are excellent at what they do and sill we had to do it twice to get it right. we learn from making sense of the unknown and I have no doubt that Aristocrat Motors would do an excellent job on your car if you decided to go this route. I’m only mentioning this to emphasize that no matter how good that mechanic is, check with LN Engineering to make sure that the place where you are having this done has the proper equipment. if not, there is a more than probable chance that mistakes can happen during the tuning.
  5. I have no idea how you did this. I had to remove the wheels and mufflers, and still cursed alot. At 40k, I had 1 coil with a cracked housing. It was originally at the rear driver's side. There's a brilliantly placed drain pipe that exits right above the coil there. I didn't have a spare ready so I moved it to the forward driver's side position so I could change it out more easily when it arrived. 1. Did those plugs and coils go 80k or did you have a change previously? 2. Did you notice any performance change? preface: having read the diy comments and other boards, i was intent on having an independent porsche mechanic do the job. i don't have a jack and i wasn't into getting one. moreover, i wasn't into spending 8 hours. out of curiousity, i walked into the service bay at an authorized porsche dealer. it just so happened that the mechanics there were relaxed and didn't have much work to do. there was one 997.2 on a lift. i asked the master mechanic if i really had to remove the wheel to do the spark plugs and coils. his response: "we don't remove anything. you just need to get under the vehicle. if you are comfortable playing around, it is really no big deal. people make a lot of changing the plugs. it is really no big deal. as far as ignition coils, we haven't seen any problems with them in the 997.1. we have with the cayennes though. look, you can do it--if you have the tools." 1. these coils were the original coils. 2. i've attached some images. i had a lot of tools around. i didn't have a specific 4" extention, but i did have a few 3" and a couple 1.5" extensions along with a couple swivel thingies. the driver's side took about two hours as i was trying to figure out how to access the bolts. there are times when a 6" works best. other times, the 4.5" w/o swivel works best. yet other times, the swivel is important. after i figured it out, the passenger side was about 30-45 minutes of work. i didn't even look to see where things were, i just felt my way through it. i think if you can touch the bolts and the connector thingy with wires that attaches itself to the coil, you can comfortably do this. as you can see in the attachment, with the rear most coil on the passenger side i used BOTH 3" extenstions, a 6" extenstion, a 1.5" extension, and that swivel thing. it was actually very quick. 3. the performance gains are subtle but noticeable. i don't think i could have possibly noticed that the car was not all it could be before i did this. having changed the coils, the car has a very smooth, yet articulate power enhancement. i don't use the sport pasm anymore--it's that different. sounds beautiful. these are things i didn't notice when it was new, but now, that tone, that articulation between gears, especially from neutral to 1st gear (as in a stop light) and between 1st and 2nd, and the full throttle response is reflexive, something i now pay attention to on 997.1 porsches that i hear on the road.
  6. winter months are in the northeast (with winter tires of course) and summer months are down south. i still wonder why ALL of the coils were damaged and to such an extent. perhaps extreme weather variations?
  7. 1. thanks to loren and the wonderful diy section! 2. i changed my plugs and ignition coils (@ 80K) without removing wheels or bumpers or using a jack/lift. felt my way through it. took me about 3 hours. 3. wanted to share some photos of the condition of my ignition coils and plugs. please note every single ignition coil was damaged. especially the ones facing the rear (003 driver.jpg and 006 pass.jpg). thanks again!
  8. 1. part number 997-607-019-03 ("alternator/starter harness", "alternator/starter cable loom") 2. funny thing, i had previously visited several dealers in this country about this (i put 50K miles on this thing last year). everyone said it cranked fine though it never did feel right. i had to have several jump starts but i attributed it to the hot water boiler that i use to make coffee with on those camping trips. what i didn't know was the significance that the INTERACTION between direct and alternate current has on low rpm, cold running, and transitions (shifting, double clutching). admittedly, i was unable to articulate the problem "soon enough" and paid for it. 3. if you haven't already, the post that number9ine mentions is a good read
  9. i had similar issues from the beginning. in my case, "everything" (battery, starter, alternator) always checked out fine. one day, i went in to see the service manager about this problem and it just so happened that he stepped out and there was this young mechanic in my sight. long story short, he said that there is a known issue with "some" 997.1: apparently there is a cable that connects the battery to the alternator (or something like that). this cable is, well, problematic. there isn't enough of a charge, current coming to and from the battery because of this. result, cranking issues, low rpm issues, shifting issues...anyway, i had mine replaced and the car now cranks up quick. the extended warranty i purchased doesn't cover the particular item and hence i had to pay quite a bit for labor (slightly under 1K). of course, i'm not saying this is your problem, but....
  10. wooooow! i think that is as articulate as i can be--i've never seen that before. i'm sorry. and curious: do you require a new paint job or is it possible to simply "wipe" it off.
  11. something just like that just happened to me! there was a snap, then the clutch stayed depressed. extremely difficult to change gears. turns out, there is clip on the nipple of the slave cylinder that fell off went into the clutch mechanism, cracked a piece of the pressure plate. long story short, new slave cylinder, new clutch. funny thing, i've got 70k miles on my 2006 c2s and the clutch (after 70k miles) looked was virtually new. cost was an annoying $3k. looking back, i should have bought the clutch kit and slave cylinder from suncoast, took the car to an independent porsche shop and i would have saved at least $1.5K
  12. i've 60K miles on mine and same clutch. there is a gentleman here in atlanta that has a 2005 C2/S with over 210,000 miles (the last time the service manager saw it). only regular maintenance and SAME clutch.
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