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vrex

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About vrex

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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  • Website URL
    http://
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    karting, skiing, snowboarding, mtn biking, tennis, golf, women, women and their friends...

Profile Fields

  • From
    Connecticut
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche C4s
  • Future cars
    Bugatti Veyron
  • Former cars
    2001 Subaru WRX
    2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
    1993 Mercedes Benz 300E 2.8

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398 profile views
  1. anyone? i specd it correctly, buuttt, how do i help Koni understand that my front struts need an endlink attachment point at the lower spring perch?
  2. and that was my approach, yet koni (not my vendor) sent over a pair of allegedly stock 911 turbo fitting struts... so where do the end links go?
  3. Hi all, Ive been working with a suspension vendor to get a set of re-valved Koni Yellows. they sent me struts that appeared to be fine. I intend on using the stock springs and compensation disks with the Konis so that i dont have a ride height issue/imbalance (ive heard about some nasty tolerance issues with H&R springs, but i guess thats just the nature of working with an anal retentive suspension engineer). He calls his contact at Koni up, they work things out and i get a fresh set of yellows. i was changing brake fluid and broke out one of the struts just to see whats what for the insta
  4. before i put this post up, i called my local Porsche dealership, to inquire about what it would cost to have them perform the service. they said it is recommended that all the hoses in the system be replaced, as the connectors get damaged when removing them or something to that effect. any truth to this? i can see how uncoupling these joints (if done properly) could hurt anything...
  5. Please excuse my inexperience, i didnt (i dont even have any). but if thats what it takes, ill pick some up tonight. could you provide some insight into the assembly/disassembly process? loosen part A in the digram, slide the off the male end, slide A and the circlip on the new male piece and tighten? loctite on anything? any recommendations on dealing with the end of the hose that is near the strut? Thanks again!
  6. Hi all, a section of the blue hydraulic line between the master and slave cylinder has developed a leak, and i cant operate my clutch. the clutch itself just goes straight to the floor, and doesnt spring back. there is a small puddle directly under a flat spot in the tubing, it looks like something flattened the tubing and that caused it to weaken and blow out the side. anyhow, i have the replacement tube (part number oem-996-423-10910, number 9 on the diagram below). the car is an '02 C4S. i found a few threads relating to being able to get the thing apart threaded joint disassembled how
  7. sorry, i should clarify. not a TRUE GT3, just an electronic nannyless car, rear wheel drive, aggressive alignment, stripped down club racer. you know, tequipment roll bar, anti roll bars, coil overs, seats, strip the sound insulation, pads, stainless lines. something that serves as a 80% track, 20% street car, air bags and cats in place, but quite frankly not a car youd want to drive for more than 3-4 hours (something you could commute to the track in and back)
  8. Hi all, after some heavy thinking, ive decided to sell my '02 C4S and start with a mk 1 car to build into a track car. i recall reading that the 996 gt3 was based on c4 architecture due to the stronger body. if i buy a c4, can PSM be removed via software deletion (IIRC, PSM is standard on the c4/s both mk 1 and 2?)? i would just drop the torque tube and front drive half shafts, essentially brining me to having rear wheel drive, but my concern is PSM still kicking in even when clicked off if i accidentally tap the brakes... or should i just shoot to stiffen up a mk 1 996? Cheers, and en
  9. Thanks for the kind words guys. picking up a battery this afternoon and pulling the old one. thanks for listening, i imagine a good number of people have been in my situation and just needed to vent/ get a second opinion. after a mediocre nights sleep from being up late researching, I've stopped worrying because frankly its not worth thinking about. either a battery will fix this or i am deep in the sh*t. thanks again! ill let you know what happens.
  10. please advise, im pretty irritated with myself, and kicking my own a** pretty thoroughly. i apologize in advance for the long winded, though mundane story. i put my car up on stands friday night. i intended to do the following; polish the headlights and replace a washer nozzle (chrome cap flew off), disconnect PSE electricals and check actuators (so it would make be louder), cap off intake muffler, replace left front side marker bulb, check for coolant expandsion tank leaks, replace any failing wire spring clams with worm (t-bolt) clamps. nothing unreasonable or beyond my ability. heck
  11. Happy New Years! I'm in the preliminary planning stage for some work id like to do this winter. i would like to have my front bumpers, front lip, the lower rockers, and rear bumperettes painted, and some clear bra applied. as far as paint goes, ive been given a few names or found a few places, but of course the people that recommended the places are partial to those places, so thats not really fair for an eval. places im considering: Musante Motorsports - south windsor, CT (based purely on web search) Plaza auto body- wallingford, CT (valenti porsche of wallingford's recommendation, my mom
  12. piping in some engine bay acoustics? total day dream, but i would love to hear the motor at WOT beyond what i do hear. someone standing curbside while i pass at WOT is def. getting a better note than i am. as far as the dump pipes go, ive examined pics of the PSE system, and read as much as i could on them. the actuator doesnt seem to divert sound around the muffler altogether, it diverts exhaust around the sound baffles in the muffler through a pipe that goes essentially in and out, but still through the muffler. dumping just after the cat will reduce length of travel (no velocity drop). t
  13. im not out to optimize the handling of the car as though im going racing. i just happen to remember that moving the wheels on my kart in 1/2" on both sides yielded some drastic handling changes. so moving my wheels in and out an inch on my car would seemingly have some ability to change things. but the difference with a kart is; no suspension, no differential. a car is much more forgiving and the fudge factor due to the bushings and suspension and whatnot may make track width a moot point. but based on what i learned in trial and error with the summer setup, there must be something to it. real
  14. Thanks Jake, id like to take some time to chat with you on the phone, and determine where im going with this project. by the end of Q1 2010, im hoping to finish suspension/wheels and tires, and a few minor aesthetic details. prepackaged items are great for their consistency and reliability, but im a huge fan of playing at the bleeding edge of reasonable, so im not afraid of talking about adding in longer rods/shorter piston combos, maybe an ITB setup, etc. its a shame the 996 isnt a showcase car anymore, but thats not to say it cant achieve some great things anyways. please PM me, we'll set up
  15. have considered the turbo, dont need a 4 seater, and theres something magical about 8500 rpm naturally aspirated that gets me every time. a gt3rs engine + c4s certainly doesnt make anything special, but iirc, all the GT cars are built on c4/s platforms due to their stiffer off the line structures. id seam weld the hell out of the thing, and of course suspension work would need to be in order to make anything that can carry a GT title. very reasonable to say that unless this became a pure project car and did everything myself, this would be a nightmare to complete. importantly, as youve pointed
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