Richard Hamilton

For some reason, Porsche code all the UK DMEs with country code C10, not C16. (All the ones I've seen anyway, including mine). I don't think the DME records the mileage - only the operating hours. Could that be 220.36 hours? (Average speed 35mph).

A new cluster can be set forward to the correct mileage with a PST2. It has to be done within a few miles of fitting. There are "mileage correction" people out there if you do get a used cluster. I'm sure that has been covered somewhere on here before.

There is a link to where you can download the parts lists in the "Links" box at the top of thhe page.

Sorry TP and Nick, I didn't word my reply correctly. If you look through the parts list, ALL the 02- Instrument Clusters for USA are shown with the 659 OBC option. In other words, there isn't a cluster listed without OBC. Unless Porsche put special clusters in at the factory, you would expect the cluster of an 02- car to read with the dot-matrix display when you do the retrofit, but clearly it doesn't.

Nick, if ever you take the cluster off again it would be worth making a note of the part number, to compare with the parts list. The part number of a USA spec cluster in black for a 02- 3.2S 6-speed manual is 986.641.982.23.A03, and the list price is.....................sitting down?.......................$1823.39.

I've never heard of C25. Maybe C26?

C23 Australia

C24 New Zealand

C26 South Africa

(All these are RHD)

It's a bit of a mystery why you only get the original type OBC display on later Boxsters. If you look through the parts list, there isn't a later cluster listed with the OBC option (basically, for each region [uSA/RoW/etc] there are only clusters for manual or tiptronic [in various colours]). Therefore you would assume that you would get the 'dot-matrix' display when doing a retrofit, but you don't. Changing the 'order code' has been tried, but that doesn't work. I don't know anyone who has tried a complete new cluster. Risky (expensive) if it doesn't work.

There is a company in UK called autofarm.co.uk that sells porsche engines that have been rebuilt with properly strong sleeves. I don't think they have an US distrubutor.

The cylinder blocks/liners that Autofarm use are made by Perfect Bore in Andover, UK (http://www.perfectbore.com). It might be worth contacting them to see if they have a US distributor.

I think that's fairly typical, as the spec for the front camber is 0°, and you can't get enough adjustment in the slots of the top strut mount to get much more than specified.

If it's a dilemma, go for the 911 or you will always have it nagging in your mind that you should have gone for it. I'm not knocking the Boxster, as it is a great car, but you have got to want one more than a 911 for it to be the right choice. Go with your heart, not your head.

Try applying a couple of clicks on the handbrake. Sometimes the linkage to the shoes rattle.

Beat ya! http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...DE=02&cat=5

If it locks and immediately unlocks, it is probably a problem with one of the microswitches in the door. As a temporary measure, try using the emergency locking procedure - turn the key to the lock position and back 3 times in succession (on the driver's side).

After fitting a new Tiptronic Control Module it is coded for the country, but there are only a couple of options according to the manual. Also the Adaption Values should be reset. That's it - but you need a PST2. I can't see any reason why you couldn't move one from car to car, so I would try and find one at a salvage yard if I were you. And find yourself an independent with a PST2.

Looks right to me. I think Porsche get it from BMW, and I have seen them in a BMW bag within the Porsche packet! The pin spacing is the same, but it isn't polarised the same as the original. Take care when assembling it, as it's easy to connect it the wrong way round. It won't do any damage - it just won't work.

T-P, you are absolutely right :notworthy: - I have never given it the chance to time-out. That will teach me to read the manual :oops: . Here's what it says (996):

If the ignition key is removed, loads which are

switched on or in standby (e.g. power windows,

luggage compartment lighting, interior light,

radio) are automatically switched off after approximately

2 hours.

If you remove the pedal - there is a single bolt at the top - you'll see a large hole in the underside of the pedal. Give it a spray with some silicone lubricant. There is a plastic cam in there that can get a bit sticky.

Yes, there is a light, and it will drain the battery. The light unclips from the lining, and you can just pull the connector off the bottom to disconnect it. I always do that if I'm working on the car with the hood open for any length of time. Alternatively you could pull the fuse for the interior lights.

Yes, the switch assembly is right by the door handle. If I were you I'd get a test done with a PST2, which will show all the alarm faults and tell you what is wrong. You can download a parts catalog from here: https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/pdf/e...USA_KATALOG.pdf

You can download the '03 manual (which would be very similar) from the Downloads section, but you'de need to be a Contributing Member ;) It isn't expensive to buy a copy from your dealer, or Sunset.

The instrument display seems normal to me - I don't think you have an issue there.

If you are getting a double-beep from the alarm when you lock it then you have a fault. Because the passenger door window isn't dropping when you lift the handle, my money would be on there being a problem with the door handle switch unit. It is a common problem for one of the microswitches to fail, but you have to change the whole switch assembly.

The red LED on the door lock switch on the dash will light continuously when you lock the doors with the switch, or if you have the door locks programmed to autolock.

It stops the alarm siren from going off, as there is a backup battery in the siren. If the battery is disconnected without the ignition being on, the alarm thinks someone is trying to steal it!! That's the way it works on UK cars anyway.

If cruise was an available option, I'm sure it could be retrofitted. I've never done a GT3, but it should be the same as an 02-04 Carrera. I don't have a wiring diagram specific to the GT3, so I can't check. Use the same method as the later Boxster/997 - wiring between the stalk and cluster only (ie no connections to the DME) and you will need to get the Cluster AND DME coded with a PST2. I'll PM you some details.

Well, I think I've worked out what was wrong, for those who are interested.

When the battery was disconnected the alarm controle module went back to the default settings. On UK cars we have an alarm siren and tilt sensor, and the default settings for these devices is "active". I have deactivated these, so now I am back to normal operation. The only snag is that there must be something wrong with either the tilt sensor or siren. Oh, well. Do I worry about it? I was blissfully ignorant about it before................

1998 Tiptronic Coupe RoW (UK).

The battery only just started the car last night, so I fitted a new one this morning - Bosch Silver 75Ah. I used the normal procedure of switching the ignition on before disconnecting the battery. When I reconnected it there was a single chirp from the alarm siren about 10 seconds after I connected the negative terminal.

Now, every time I remove the key from the ignition I get a single chirp from the alarm siren after a 10 second delay. Then, when I lock the car I get a double-chirp from the siren, but the LED single-flashes every 2 second or so (as it should). There are NO faults shown a PST2 test.

I have to say this is the first time I have ever heard the alarm siren. On the occasions that I have left the oddments cover open and locked the car, I got a single-beep from the car horn - not this loud chirp from the siren. I have disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes and reconnected it. Still the same, and no faults in the memory.

I KNOW this is going to drive me crazy, so before I disconnect the alarm siren by unplugging it, has anyone else experienced this problem? My initial thought is that something in the alarm control module has been corrupted during the battery change.

edit: It just occured to me - Could it be the backup battery in the siren?

You have PM. If that doesn't work, the Radio Code is sometimes stored in the DME of the vehicle, but you need a PST2 to read it.

Funnily enough I have been looking into doing this on my 996. It looks a very straightforward wiring job, but I am coming to the conclusion that it will be too expensive to use new parts. Over here (in the UK) a new control unit is £200, and the sensors are £65 each. With a few other bits and pieces it totals £500, roughly $950.

It's a transmission fault, so it shouldn't give you a CEL.