Richard Hamilton

It sounds like a microswitch within one of the door locks which senses if the door is open or closed is broken.  The system 'thinks' the door is open, so after locking it immediately unlocks.

As a temporary measure, you can use the emergency locking procedure.  Turn the key in the door lock to the lock position and back 3 times in quick succession.  It may also work if you press the remote button 3 times.

Try looking in the input signals of the alarm control module on PIWIS.

These are from PIWIS2 in Simulation Mode.  Select Alarm from the Overview screen, then Maintenance repairs, and choose Input Signals.

It is anyone's guess, I'm afraid.  They used to release updates every two years or so, but these systems are up to 14 years old, so I guess they will stop supporting it at some point.  The updates are seldom up to date anyway.  If you put your DVD in a PC and check out the database file dates, they will likely be older than 2013.

The latest USA map for PCM2.1 is indeed 997.044.904.51, which is mid-2015.  Because you are running the 2013 map, your system must have been updated in the past, so the new map disk would be plug & play.

PCM version 5024AD1 is software level B.  You may also have read that there is a Level C update, which yours must have had.  However, when you update from Level B to Level C, it only updates the Navigation Drive, not the PCM head unit.  If you view the software version for Navigation, it should show Actual:00179436, which is Level C for the Navigation drive.

It is possible that the Sport Chrono module has slipped into transit mode.  It happens after a flat or disconnected battery, and can happen to various modules.  If that's what has happened, it needs waking up by running the handover routine with a PIWIS tester.

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The Headlight Beam Alignment module is located in the right hand side of the dashboard, under the passenger airbag.  (LHD car).

On 2/4/2019 at 12:09 AM, Turboflyer said:

 Maybe the body shop may have messed with something

I don't know if it would cause your problem, but a common failing on Litronics is the plastic level sensor arms on the suspension.  They break, or become detached.

I doubt the problem is the alarm/immobilizer.  The immobilizer inhibits the fuel pump, ignition, and starter motor.  Because it is cranking, the immobilizer is inactive.

I suspect the root of your problem is the battery.  Low voltage causes all sorts of problems.

On early 986/996s with DME5.2.2 (non-eGas), pin 60 on the DME (Software Voltage) is used when re-flashing the fuel map with a PST2.  At the start of the flashing routine, the PST2 applies 12vDC to that pin, and it disconnects it when the flash is complete.

If the car started, then it has recognised the immobiliser code, so it sounds to me like the programming is correct.

Do you have the alarm siren?  Is it the siren which is going off when you remove the key?  The siren is to the right hand side of the battery, as you look at the car from the front.  If you have the siren then I suspect it has a bad backup battery inside.  With the ignition switched on, unplug the siren.  Then see if the alarm goes off when you switch the ignition off and remove the key.  You might get a beep from the alarm horn (a separate horn on the other side of the battery) when you lock the car, because the siren is disconnected.

You need to enter an activation code into the PCM using a PIWIS tester before loading the new maps.

I think you need option 666 or 619 for Bluetooth phone. 619 can be retrofitted, which is less expensive than 666. By the way, you can't update the system to v2.24 in one step.  You have to update to v2.23 first. Your dealer should know this.  I would try to find one who knows what they are doing.

The 619 Mobile phone preparation retrofit involves fitting an additional microphone and entering an activation code for the Bluetooth using a PIWIS tester.

Try the Extended Identifications too, and the Handover Routine (in the F7 Additional Functions menu).

When I said manual coding, I meant using the Coding/Adaptations tab.  Not being familiar with PDCC, I didn't realise there was only one coding option.  Were you able to change it from V8 to V6?  Did you look in the Extended Identification tab, to see if the VIN was displayed, and if it could be changed there?  Another thing you could try is running the Vehicle Handover.

When calibrating the levelling system, you have to enter the security code at the beginning of the routine.  It doesn't sound like PDCC has the same requirement for a code.

The link didn't work for me, but I managed to find the thread:

Although I can't help with your problem, it is not exactly the same as the one above.  In his case, the fellow was able to read out the old control unit and write it to the new one.  His problem was that he could not run the calibration routine.  In your case, you say you can't write the data to the new control unit.

Is the used CU exactly the same part number as the original?  Can you manually code the new module?

Is the problem with calibration?  I have no experience of PDCC, but if it is the same as the levelling calibration, you have to get the security access code from Actual Values before running the calibration routine.

The "immobiliser" (PAS module) on a 987 is not under the left hand seat like it is on a 986.  They moved it to the center console, so they don't tend to get wet.  Very cleverly, they placed the Rear Control Module under the left seat instead, so that's what gets wet now.

If the problem is, in fact, the PAS module you would be better having a new one fitted.  You should be able to retain the existing keys, as they can be programmed to the PAS, unlike the 986.  It seems crazy to fit a used DME, keys, and PAS module combo, on which you will never be able to have new keys made, and could well be more expensive in the long run.

Just my 2 cents' worth.

I sent you a PM with the DME pinouts.

I don't know for sure that this would work, but did you run Automatic Coding of all control Modules after adding venting and heating options in Vehicle Data Maintenance? 
 

From the Overview screen, press F7 for the additional menu.  Choose Maintenance of vehicle data.  On the M Numbers page, change the seat options to suit the seats you have fitted.  Code with F8 on the final screen.  Go back to Overview and press Ctrl & A to select all modules.  Click Coding/adaptations and run Automatic coding.

Like I say, I don't know if it will work for you, but this is the procedure for doing retrofits such as cruise control.

Will this do?  Pin 7 connects to the DME.

On 12/10/2018 at 10:12 PM, tommd said:

Is there a way to reboot that might help?

 

Tom

As Seth says, press the 1, 4, and 8 buttons at the same time.

The diagnostic sheets for the TPS and Throttle Valve show the wiring, and voltage checks.  PM on its way.

The PCM takes its time signal from GPS.  Is the navigation working properly?  This is what the workshop manual says about the time setting after changing a PCM2.1 unit:

For vehicle equipment with DVD navigation unit, switch on the PCM in clear surroundings (to load GPS almanac); as soon as four satellites are identified the almanac will reload. The time is updated again when there is a plausible GPS reception (four satellites). The date and time are also adopted once the GPS almanac has been loaded; it may be necessary to change over to summer time (daylight-saving time). This time is transferred to the instrument cluster. If the time is then manually changed by means of the instrument cluster, this time is adopted by the PCM and synchronised with GPS time.

There is a screen which shows the number of satellites being received.  Maybe also try switching to summer time to see if it will pick up the date.  It can take a long time to update the GPS almanac, so be patient and check the date setting after a day or two.

As for the sound, I can't help I'm afraid.  Are there any on-screen messages?  It is going into mute when you first switch on?

You either have PCM2.0 (navigation) or a CDR23 (radio).  Neither have user-entry security codes.  In both cases, codes are stored in the head unit and in the DME (engine control unit).  When you switch the ignition on, the codes are compared, and if they match the radio/PCM will start. 

It sounds to me like the bluetooth adapter has been incorrectly installed.  I would take it back to the fitter, and get them to put it right.

There doesn't seem to be much point in trying to integrate the Bose amp if you aren't sure it is working.

You can get a cable to connect the speakers directly to a head unit, provided the unit has speaker outputs, of course.  The snag is that Bose speakers are 2 ohm impedance, and most head units (and amps) are designed for 4 ohm speakers.  It would work, but the sound quality might suffer.

You can buy the upper part of the remote with the rubber buttons direct from Porsche - about £25.  I think the rubber fuel cap strap comes with the cap.  About £10.