Richard Hamilton

You are absolutely right Loren, but my brother had a problem with his multi-function switch but the code didn't appear at first. It was a good couple of weeks before the code registered, when the problem got much worse. However, it's worth having the codes read if you can get it done for free. I wish UK parts stores offered that service.

If there is a fault in the tiptronic control unit the 4th gear light will flash - that's why the dealer asked the question.

From what you say, it sounds like you might have a problem with the multi-function switch on the gearbox. The contacts in the switch are prone to breaking up. You really need to connect to a PST2 and compare the lever position with the input signals to the tiptronic unit.

When you move the lever from N to D the PST2 should display N > D. If there is a bad contact it will show N > Z > D. There is a fault code for the multi-function switch, but the switch can play up a bit for a while before the fault is recorded in memory.

Another possibility, although very unlikely, is a break in one of the wires between the tiptronic unit and the instrument cluster. I had this once when retrofitting cruise to a tiptronic Boxster.

GOB, I felt the same way as you - I didn't want to spend a lot of money on a pair of genuine PSE's or the aftermarket equivalents. I bought a set of nearly new mufflers on eBay, and modified them as shown in the top photo by welding in 1 inch diameter stainless steel tube. This was the way that Porsche did it on their "first generation" PSE, but they put a valve in the tube to switch the bypass on and off. Because I was able to buy the new mufflers very cheaply I figured that if I didn't like the effect I could always switch them back. I was told that the "Mark 1" PSE was only suitable for 3.4 litre engines, but I don't know why.

I originally saw the modification from a couple of guys on the PCGB forum who had bought modified systems from a company in Germany called Oettle ( http://www.oettle-autodienst.de ). They have a soundfile on the site which you might want to listen to: http://www.oettle-autodienst.de/996soundfile.wmv - Oettle also sell the systems on eBay, but they say that they are suitable for 3.4 and 3.6.

My concern was that they might be "boomy" at motorway cruising speed, and also attract attention from my neighbours, as I live in a quiet dead-end road. I needn't have worried. Up to about 2000 rpm they are only marginally louder than standard, and at cruising speed they are as quiet as standard (inside the car). The real bonus is that there is a delicious roar when accelerating between about 2500 and 5000 rpm. On your scale, I guess maybe a 50 or 60 between these engine speeds.

The later Porsche PSE had the bypass as shown in the lower photo, but again it had a butterfly valve to shut it on and off. This picture was posted by one of the guys on the PCGB forum, and I havn't heard it myself, but he says it has the same effect. Again I was told that the "Mark 2" PSE is suitable for both 3.4 and 3.6 engines.

The cost of mine was a total of £150 ($280) including the mufflers, but I was lucky. I also needed a new set of clamps, as the old ones were rusted solid and I had to cut them off. It was definitely worth the effort though.

Here's the "Mk1" PSE mod I did on mine:

And this is the "Mk2" PSE mod:

Some of us don't subscribe to Rennlist. There are only so many Porsche forums you can make time for - so we make sure we make time for the best! ;)

:renntech:

Cheryl

The part numbers for front and rear disks are the same for USA and RoW, so the answer to your question is yes they will fit.

I haven't any experience of them, so maybe someone else could comment on how good they are.

Check the coil packs too.

There aren't any power connections involved in the OBC retrofit. The stalk needs a ground connection, which it then connects to the appropriate pins on the cluster plug. If you want some simplified wiring diagrams for your MY drop me an email or PM.

You only need the power connection for cruise.

Here is the 111 Point Inspection sheet used by UK Porsche Dealers prior to issuing an extended warranty.

111_point_porsche_inspection.pdf

Here is a quote from the 2002 SIT for the C2:

"The camshaft adjuster is based on theprinciple of a vane cell adjuster. The control unit determines the current position of thecamshaft in relation to the crankshaft (actual angle) using the engine speed and hall sensor signal. The position control in the control unit receives the desired angle via the programmed map values (engine speed, load, engine temperature). If the desired angle and actual angle differ, a controller in the Motronic actuates the 4-way proportioning valve to the desired position."

I don't know if this is the kind of information you are looking for, but you can download the complete article from here:

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/sit/e.../1_2002_911.pdf

Alternatively, go to: https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/index.jsp

and select Great Britain (not USA)/Training Documents, and select 911

I made up the 'fake' PSE bypass silencers last week and fitted them. You won't be disappointed with the sound.

I'd love to see a photo of that too. Did you use an external GPS antenna, or does it work OK down there without?

I can't get that link to work, but I think they must be these ones: http://www.oettle-autodienst.de/ (Go to Downloads/Auspuffinfo).

Two or three guys on the PCGB forum have bought them and are very pleased with the result. The original PSE had a silencer bypass pipe with a valve to open or close the bypass. The Oettle system is doing the same job without the valve. I have just bought a pair of standard mufflers on eBay, and am about to do this myself. It will probably take me a couple of weeks to get around to it, but here are a couple of photos of what I plan to do.

Porsche PSE:

Planned Mods:

I can't comment on 2 or 3, but 1 is normal. There is a small fan on the back of the AC control unit, which blows air over the temperature sensor. The fan runs for a few minutes after the ignition is switched off. These fans are prone to failing, which makes temperature control erratic, but if yours is running that's good!

I have looked at the wiring diagram, and everything is connected to the alarm control unit - door locks, interior lights, door switches, monitoring sensors etc, etc, etc. I can't find a wiring diagram for a car without an alarm so I suspect that you have the control unit, but maybe not all the connections. It is under the driver's seat in a LHD car, or under the passenger seat in yours. Obviously your car has some of the functions - central locking, for example, but if the control unit is the same then you can probably add some of the functions, but you may have to add sensors, etc. Unfortunately, there is only one way to find out - try it.

If you want the wiring diagrams for the alarm, PM me.

edit: Looking at the PET

For your MY there are 3 control units shown:

986 618 260 00 - Option M531 central locking but no alarm

986 618 260 00 - Option M534 with alarm

986 618 260 01 - Option M535 with alarm 315MHz

If yours is the same part number as the alarm option, maybe you could retrofit parts, but like I say, there's only one way to find out.

It would probably be more cost-effective to get an aftermarket remote alarm fitted though.

Thank you very much for the info.

I know that audi uses the same type of gearbox,but they have many types of 5hp19,and each one has its own parts(part numbers)inside. How will i know which type of 5hp19 of Audi should match to a86-00?Moreover,i don't trust anyone here in greece to make this experiment to my gearbox,if he hasn't done another.

As I understand it, it is only the valve block orifices and soleniods that are specific to Porsche. If you don't have a problem with the valve block it should be relatively straightforward to repair by any transmission centre familiar with ZF. I have the general spare parts lists for the ZF 5HP 19 transmission in pdf format which I downloaded from the US ZF web site a while ago. If it would help, email me if you would like a copy.

Could anybody help,giving a link to workshops that repair

tip. transmission.type 5 HP-19,A 86-00.I would prefer on Europe :help:

Thanks

These guys are in Belgium, but do an exchange program: http://www.am-tc.be/porsche.shtml

Edit: It is a ZF transmission, so you might find a more local company that could overhaul it. It was also used by Audi and BMW with minor differences.

Yes it is possible, but it is not easy.

See here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=16939

I have done it, but compared to an eGas car it is a pain to do.

Only two choices, I'm afraid:

Default (Current Blue)

Tanned Hide (Beige) is quite nice

The others are a bit 'girly' except Ashes to Ashen (Black) which looks more difficult to read.

So far I have excluded the possibility to be an actual lubrication problem. May be I am wrong...

If there was an actual lubrication problem, and during hard cornering the actual oil pressure drops to zero, then I suppose "low oil pressure" signal would appear instead of "indicator Failure". Am I correct assuming that?

I really don't know. The pressure sensor has two outputs - one for the actual pressure reading for the gauge, and one for the warning light. Perhaps the one for the warning light is failing during higher speed cornering, giving you the "indicator failure" message, whilst the computer knows the actual oil pressure is OK.

Like I say, the sensor is a relatively inexpensive item, and would be my first choice of where to start. The alternative would be to start checking the continuity of wiring, or it might be a fault in the instrument cluster, but these would be a nightmare.

Not yet. How can I determine that sensor is faulty and not anything else ? i.e. instrument cluster

By the way any guidance on how to change the sensor ? Is it a diy job ?

What really confuses me is the fact the problem never occures under normal driving conditions. It only happens during hard cornering.

I would say it's a DIY job. The sensor has a threaded piece on the bottom which screws into the cylinder head. It's a bit tricky to get to, but not impossible if you are patient.

If I were you I would change the sensor, as it is relatively inexpensive. If that doesn't cure it I would start worrying that there is something wrong with the oil pickup in the 'sump'.

Just to write a conclusion to this, we fitted a new throttle body today, and it fixed the problem completely. We then stripped down the old unit, and found that the connectors to the actuator motor were slightly corroded. We cleaned them up, but didn't go to the trouble of swapping it back. I get the feeling it would work, but didn't want the hassle of checking.

The new throttle body was 140.00GBP, which is amazing compared to the MAF I bought recently at 149.00GBP. I have no idea how Porsche calculate their prices - the throttle body must cost at least twice as much to make as a MAF! And they can't sell anything like the same quantity. There doesn't seem to be any logic to Porsche spare parts prices at all.

There are instructions in the workshop manual. If you send me an email I could attach them to a reply. There are 5 pages.

Have you ever taken the idle control valve off one of these? I know it has been done on non-eGas cars, but I'd be interested to know if there is anything servicable/cleanable inside before we go delving into it.

edit: Looking at it again, the device must be the throttle actuator itself - there doesn't seem to be an idle control valve.

This is my brother's 1999 C4 Tiptronic Coupe (UK Car).

The problem started a couple of days ago. When he switched on the ignition there was a strange, continuous, clicking noise from the engine bay, and the engine cranked but wouldn't start. After disconnecting the battery and leaving it for an hour, the engine fired up straight away and runs perfectly.

This morning the clicking appeared again, but it wasn't continuous, and the car started and runs fine. Now when you switch on the ignition it may or may not happen - it seems to be random. The noise seems to come from a device on the side of the throttle body, shown by the red arrow in the picture.

We have checked the connection to this device. There are no faults in the fault memory. The best way to describe the noise is similar to a relay clicking on and off, but a bit louder - almost a buzzing/flapping sound.

Anyone had the same problem?

The right side would be the driver's side if you were in the UK with a RHD. :)

:oops: Of course! :rolleyes: