hucqym

Yeah, I got over 350 miles before my CEL came back on after the oil fill tube was replaced. My generic code scanner won't display "pending" codes and the CEL sometimes doesn't get turned on by the computer until it sees the parameters wrong several drive cycles in a row. My local Porsche shop says they've never seen a MAF sensor successfully cleaned and totally clearing up the problem.

I agree with your garage. I have cleaned many MAF sensors and it was temporary at best so I recommend just replacing the unit.

or the MAF may not be a problem at all (as in my case) so cleaning or replacing wont fix the problem.

If you have a durametric kit try reading actual MAF sensor values.

The OBD manual for DME7.2 specifes the following as expected readings

Switch ignition on: 0.9 to 1.1V

Start engine: approx 1.4V

Well good luck, my 1126, 1128 and 1130 codes were solved by replacing the oil tube, MAF and a good clean! Last night i went for a 90min drive North of Dallas, and all the hard work was worth it! :jump:

I sure hope your problem is fixed but just a word of caution. When my AOS was gone and I got these codes, I cleaned MAF and cleared codes and it all ran fine for a while. CEL hadnt come up yet but I checked with my durametric kit and the codes had come back.

ok may be a a dumb question, but can the engine start with the throttle body removed? I am trying to check on the starting problem and was probing terminal 50 on the starter while trying to start.

I see a voltage of about 9.5V and then when I try to jump start by hooking up to a honda civic battery (rated 500 CA), I see a voltage of about 10.5V.

Is this what I could typically expect or is my jump start not sufficing as well? or does it not start just because my TB is out?

Thanks for the suggestion but I really am stuck because the engine wont start and so cant look further.

I cleaned the TB (didnt need much cleaning since the last time I did before chaging AOS - a year ago), cleaned MAF.

oil filler tube (996-107-273-04) looks fine with any cracks

wasnt able to get the oil hose (996-107-254-03) out but the end connecting to the lower hose looks fine. was a lot dirty, cleaned it and put it back. sits snug alrite.

Cant get to the other end, near the filler tube so cant take it off completely.

I am sort of reposting as the previous one was buried in a different thread. Sorry if you see this again.

Now the problem,

My 2001 boxster (105K miles) is upset with me and just wont start. The last time it ran, it threw P1126,P1128,P1130,P1133 but ran fine till I got home. Hasnt been starting since the next day morning.

I tried jump starting a few times and also got the battery out and got it completely charged. Still wont.

Any connection between the two problems? What else should I be looking at downstream from the battery?

I am in the same boat as you (just P1133 also). The trouble is that my '01 boxster also wont start so doesnt give me a way to check further for leaks.

When you guys talk about oil filler tube leaks, are you really referring to the hard plastic tube located in the trunk? The only way I see that could leak is if it is cracked or the cap/seal isnt good. Both look good on mine.

The last time my engine was running, i could feel suction with the cap off so there does seem to be a leak somewhere.

Now if you are referring to the oil filler hose between this plastic tube and the lower hose going to the engine block or the PN- 996-107-254-03, then I find it hard to uninstall. The connection to the lower hose is fine but the connection to the filler tube is PITA. Cant reach from the top to the spring clamp nor does it look accessible from the wheel bay (havent tried). How do you guys do it?

so after over a year of happy boxtering I am back on this thread! :)

The last time it turned out to be AOS and I had replaced it with genuine/OEM part from sunset.

Since then, I've changed oil, brakes, tires and a waterpump.

Recently I had P1128 come up and I cleared it once to see if it comes back again and kept monitoring for any unusual signs.

I do sometimes hear a faint high pitch sound at first start in the morning and then as I drive out of my street it fades away. Its not something that comes at low rpm or something but just first in the morning.

After about another 50 or so miles, CEL came back on again last week and this time the codes were P1128, P1130, P1126 and P1133

I dont have any excess smoke at startup or something and besides my AOS is just a year old so that doesnt look a likely candidate this time.

Strange thing was my engine wouldnt start next day morning. I left it as is and returned to it this weekend. It started up ok.

I checked for live values of MAF sensor (at idle - about 800rpm) using my durametric kit:

MAF sensor value: 1.3V

MAF - 16.2 kg/h

I roughly recall that this is what I had observed last time. Can one say if these values rule out the MAF as the problem or not?

I checked the oil filler port in the trunk and do see some deposit on it which doesnt look like oil (coolant mixing perhaps?). Attaching picture of that

I can distinctly feel suction there and can infact even hear it hiss. So i guess my problem is leak in the intake system?

Now can someone tell me what are the typical places I can visually check for leaks? Could it be the AOS again?

Also the engine starting problem returned. I couldnt start it again after that first time. As for background, I have swapped my halogen headlights out for stealth auto HID upgrade.

It worked fine for a while but off-late I was noticing that the headlight wouldnt turn on immediately. I would have to drive for a while and then try again and it would turn on.

This made me suspect an independent battery trouble and so I took it out now and got it recharged at autozone and they confirmed it was drained and returned saying it is now good and charged.

I put it back in and measured with a dmm and it was about 12.7V. I tried starting and it wouldnt start again. I measured again and it was back to around 12.1

seems like something is draining the battery rapidly?

Any chance that my two problems are connected?

...so it did turn out to be the waterpump.

made a huge noise yesterday (fortunately I was close to home). got the drive belt off and checked all bearings again and water pump was gone beyond doubt!

so its definitely going to be a porsche part this time

If you take the belt off you can check each pulley and also rotate the water pump by hand looking for wobble.

Although... I have seen water pumps where the bearing just fails and there is little or no wobble (until it disintegrates).

Yes thats how I determined all pulleys were fine. I'll start with the belt off on the next coldstart to see if the noise is related.

Serves me right for using a cheap *** water pump the last time :P ...failed in about 1.5 years.

so for the last couple days I've noticed a shrill noise at cold start. Sounds almost like metal against metal and lasts about 30s or so. If I then turn off and start engine again, it doesnt happen. Any clue?

My drivebelt seem to be in good condition. All other bearings and idler pulley seem smooth without wobble. The alternator does have a click when I rotate it back and forth but then I dont know if that is abnormal.

I may suspect the coolant pump giving away but the momentary noise just on cold start surprises me. Any other possible suspects?

..so the temperature sensor does seem to be in place. Its the one between the intake runners right?

I do seem to notice another issue at cold start that I'll start off as another thread

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I havent gotten to this yet. Will update the thread when I get to it.

Hi,

off-late I've been noticing something strange about the engine compartment fan. Until recently I've never observed it running. Guessing that it would run only when the engine bay is sufficiently hot and then turns off when I turn the engine off and so never had a chance to hear it operate. But a few times recently, I notice something strange. I go on a long drive, come park and turn the engine off, ignition off and all silent. I turn the ignition on and the fan doesnt run. I let it sit for a while (10-15 minutes) and then turn the ignition on again and the fan starts whirring wildly. Now if anything, the engine bay should've gotten cooler in that time. So why this? Ofcouse its summer here in the san francisco bay area but it barely hits 100 and so that cant be it.

Any clues?

Thanks. that was reassuring. I already have the jack/jackstand (...and paper towels :D) and so that leaves me with only bleeder and fluid :)

Any strong recommendation for/against pressure bleeding or vacuum bleeding? I could do with a less messy one given the chance of messing up paint with the corrosive fluid.

You could do the brakes in an afternoon with limited skills. An hour for the first wheel, then it will get faster. If you have the bently's manual you should be fine. I would use this as an excuse to buy a brake bleeder if you don't have one. I think of things like this as an reason to buy tools, because it will make the next brake change easier ( I usually have 4 or 5 cars in the driveway). A Motive bleeder will be under a hundred bucks, and you can flush/replace the brake fluid while you are there, with one person. Replacing the brake fluid is an every two year PM that most people don't do. Any of the performance parts places sell the Motive unit, or there might be someone close who has one and can help.

Compared to the labor quote you got, If you bought a floor jack and jack stands, the motive unit, pretty blue brake fluid. and a bunch of paper towels, you'd still be out less than $200 for parts, and then you keep it all.

Thanks all for pointing out the EBC redstuff pad. Did a little research and these ceramic based ones sound fabulous. Getting them from amazon. Bought the rotors from pelican (and they ship free based on the order value).

Now what are your opinion about installing them at home? I am getting a quote from local shops (european car specialists in sanfrancisco bay area) ranging from $500-700 for labor which I think is pretty steep. Leave alone, the porsche specialists and dealer I never bother.

I have worked on stuff like coolant pump replacement by myself and dont mind getting down and dirty :)

Only concern, is it a straight-forward installation procedure or does it take some skillful adjustment/tuning etc..

Also I am getting new tires installed and an alignment done. Does it matter if I replace brakes before or after that process? (given that I want to change the brakes by myself)

Thanks for your suggestion. I just spoke to pap-parts and they confirmed that the parts they are offering are zimmerman.

I am not sure how little is okay but mine had also started blowing out excess smoke on startup (another tell-tale of AOS issue). So if yours ain't doing that, it should be fine.

Good luck

Hi, thanks for your advice. Just to clarify there is no mix of coolant and oil as far as I can tell. The oil filler tube is the only thing that I know for sure is touching the tube that got the leak, so it got some attention and I noticed it is more dirty than the rest of the engine bay. I changed out the cap last year. I did check the end of the AOS' j-tube where it goes into the throttle body, and it did have some oil in it. But I'm thinking a little oil is normal?

Atle

alrite! some very basic questions on use of those little 12v inflators

1) The 12v cigarette lighter port is 15A rated? or is there another port I've been unaware of?

2) The inflator manual says keep engine off while operating. Wont that drain the battery out?

Ordered the part, but conserned that this was just a symptom - can't really see what would cause the tube to melt. Perhaps it's the hot water rushing out from the tube that made it look like it had been melted?

I also noticed that the oil filler tube is very drity. Lite it has been sweating oil. Is this normal, or should I suspect a failed AOS causing a vacuum in the tube?

Thanks.

Atle

coolant mixed with oil does hint at an AOS issue. Quick check: with your engine on, remove the oil filler cap and feel for suction with your palm. Or for a more convincing check, see the throttle-body for any oil deposit.

I faced a similar situation of collant overflowing a while back. It was quite likely an issue with just the reservoir cap. The old version apparently has a known issue and if you are still running with that, might be a good idea to switch, My AoS also needed a replacement about then but I dont think that had anything to do with the coolant overflow.

...so its about time for me to replace the rotors/pads on my 2001 boxster. Checked a few options online - suncoast, pelican parts, pap-parts among other random web stores.

pap-parts seems to have a sweet deal. Does anyone have experience buying brakes from pap-parts? genuine stuff and all that?

Any other sources, welcome.

also pelican is selling balo brand rotors for pretty cheap. Is that any good?

Thanks

Hakim

Thanks for the update and nice job. Do make sure you check for codes again after about 50 miles or so. I was deceived after my MAF cleaning as the CEL did not light up but the codes showed up when I checked with my scanner.

Happy boxtering!

I did have some misfire code turn up at one point too. I had ordered the part but kept driving around (after resetting P1128/P1130) till that came in and I guess it wasnt such a great idea to be running with a bad AOS. So after this happened, I brought it home and then waited till AOS got replaced before driving it again. Bottom-line: possibility of bigger problems while running on a bad AOS.

I am not an expert and can only help share my research/experience on the issue I faced. I'll let the more experienced folks answer your other questions. But logically thinking - a wrong pin configuration would have probably messed up your system even before you could read codes and reset so thats unlikely but I am just thinking aloud here.

Good luck

THANKS for the update..

The Air Oil separator, is there a definitive way of diagnosing this as the cause of my lack of power and rough running?

I did have a lot of smoke when it start up and started running rough? did clear away though, I do know thats a symptom of the AOS problem.

mmm I think I'll start with the MAF clean tomorrow, have a visual inspection of the AOS and then go from there.. sounds like a plan?

thanks again

Rolfy

With the engine idling, try taking oil filler cap out in the trunk. you might find it a little stiff if there is excess pressure due to an air leak (possible sign of AOS failure). Once you have it open place a palm on the mouth and feel for suction. I could distinctly feel it in my case. Now technically that may mean air leak anywhere in the intake system but combined with your excess smoke at startup, I would guess AOS. A little more extensive check is to look for oil deposit in the throttle body. That, I am told, is a conclusive test.

Search for a whole bunch of threads and info on AOS on this site. The part itself is not expensive and a lot of people manage to swap it on their own. I didnt.

Hi

Did you ever resolve the problem, as I have the same P1128 and P1130 with poor engine performance?

Thanks

Rolfy

Yes I did. Sorry that I did not update on the post. It turned out it had nothing to do with the MAF. My AOS had blown and everything has been good after I had that replaced. Unfortunately I had to take it to a shop as reaching it while having the car on a jackstand was a quite a task and I gave up after an hour or so of struggling. The shop charged me $450 for labor which was pretty annoying.

Which also brings me to an unrelated question to this post, are there places where one can rent a shop/lift/some tools by the hour and work on their own?

update on the bruce whittier manual on pelican parts.

The sales guy replied to my query saying it has "rudimentary tips on the fault codes"

update on the factory obd manual with sunset.

No deal. costs about $650