hucqym

well! nothing specific at the moment. but wanted to have it as a good reference to understand fault codes and be able to follow a diagnostic procedure to identify and fix problems. Posting on the forum is definitely helpful but having done the diagnosis homework would help articulate the problem well and get more specific advice.

I think the 15 volume set is what I have and referred to the technical manual in my original post. I'll check with them if they have the OBD diagnostic manual on sale as well. Thanks geoff

Also what is P1128/P1130 saying exactly? I've seen the table on renntech and the title doesnt make too much sense to me. My bentley guide says "short to B+/above upper limit/rich mixture threshold"

As I understand, these codes are coming from the O2 sensors. So is the "above upper limit" saying there is too much oxygen (and hence air) or is the "rich mixture" saying there is more fuel than the required stoichiometric ratio?

Thanks for your reply Mike. I dont know anyone personally with a porsche around to swap test a MAF.

I do have some updates.

It does look like yesterdays drive probably threw up the fault codes (P1128/P1130) again. I was deceived by the fact that the CEL did not come up also (would there be a lag between the fault codes being generated and CEL coming up?).

I also checked for suction at the oil top-up port in the rear trunk and that was indeed slightly difficult to open due to excess pressure and a clearly evident suction could be felt when I placed my palm on the mouth. I think I'm also noticing an increased startup smoke. AOS issue?

So I have the boxster Technical manual and the bentley service manual. Both have good information about how to replace a part etc.. but nothing like a diagnostic procedure based on the fault codes. Ideally I'd like to have the Porsche OBD2 diagnostic manual for boxster (WKD 483 620) but that costs about $700-1K online. Anyone know of other useful publication that could be obtained a little cheaper?

Pelican Parts sells this -> http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...s_pg1.htm#item2

Anyone has this? any good? more information than what i have in my technical manual or the bentley guide?

Thanks for the info Chuck. So I tried to experiment with durametric's actual values on MAF sensor voltage and air flow. Hooked up my laptop and took it for a spin (20 odd miles) the code hasnt come back on. On earlier occasions, it came back by then. One guess is your point about the computer still being confused about the values since I hadn't disconnected the battery after cleaning/replacing the MAF, and probably now its gotten it right.

The logged actual values seem to be more or less fine. flow ranging between 10 to 130 with the corresponding voltage between 1.25 to 2.7 and corresponding rpm ranging between 750-2500. If the CEL comes back again, i'll test more, especially the cruise at 3k+ that you mention.

On the other hand, I'm thinking if it is not the MAF at all but a vacuum leak that is my real problem? That would explain the idle surge. could it also possibly trigger P1128/P1130?

Hi,

I've had P1128/P1130 come on a while back on my 2001 boxster (94K miles). Digging a bit on the forum and following mike focke's guide on MAF cleaning, I tried that out and drove around. The codes came back again. To check if the MAF has gone completely bad, I disconnected the wiring, reset the codes and drove around a little and this time P0102(MAF) and a little later P0112(intake air temp sensor) came on. I guess both are only indicating that my MAF is disconnected.

Now the question is, is this convincingly a case of bad MAF and in need of replacement? How do I test if the MAF is really bad ..some multimeter test perhaps?

Also what goes bad in a MAF? Is that a diode i see outside? Can I replace just that? I have the durametric kit, in case I could learn something from the live data?

Another annoying issue I've been noticing. at idle engine rpm is around 900 but then after the engine is a little warm and when i stop at a red light, the rpm shoots up arbitrarily to 1600-1800 and then back down without my foot on the gas (let me know if there is a apt jargon for this behavior).

I also suspect some coolant disappearing every now and then (its may be just bleeding since I had coolant overflowing, replaced reservoir cap and had topped it up). Some smoke at startup but havent ever noticed it while running. A lot more smoke at startup when I was experimenting with MAF disconnected.

I wouldn't yank - but pull alternately on each side. It fits tight, which is good so it won't rattle.

phew! finally managed! after an hour of struggling for what should have really taken just a minute. The **** thing was just jammed and wouldnt budge.

Here are instructions for any other soul: (This is for becker cdr220)

0) Good idea to remove front control panel and get it out of the way.

1) Insert the radio removal key in the bottom two slots of the front plastic frame (the curved/notched edge facing inwards on both)

2) The key should just tuck in snugly and then wont come out till you get the radio out.

(Now i read instructions somewhere about lever the two keys away form each other and then pull the radio out but nothing of that sort was required).

3) If all is well you should just be able to pull the radio out holding on to the removal keys

If you find your radio still stuck in. Follow these steps. You may probably have PCM/GPS or something else above the radio but I have a cup holder.

4) unclip the side switch panel from the top and forward

5) This makes it easier the remove the front frame of the cup holder and access the 4 screws. remove them and out goes the cup holder.

6) Now you can access the radio body easily. Reach out to the back and give it a good push! voila!

...and now lets try to hook up my iphone! :)

Thanks Loren! for your prompt reply! as always! :)

Hakim

You can release them from the plastic clips on the side once the radio is out.

Thanks! glad to hear that. So I did put them in correct orientation?

and now to get the radio out I just yank it harder?

Hello,

I inserted the removal keys into the two slots at the bottom two slots, with the curved slotted edge on both keys facing inwards. They clicked in but I am unable pull out the stereo. Did i insert the wrong way? Do i need to do something else to get the radio out?

Quick reply much appreciated.

Thanks

Hakim

so the engine fault codes turned out to be P1128/P1130 and MAF.

compression test on the cooling system showed no leaks but they are suspecting a bad AOS (I have been getting smoke at startup, and as far as I can tell its only at startup and I havent noticed anything while running but I might have just missed noticing)

does this tell a tale or more like a bunch of unrelated issues?

Thanks folks for the info.

I am sure the system was bled though. If you missed it, I have run a good 4000+ miles since the waterpump change. Or are you saying there could still be air bubbles after this long?

Also I did bleed the system then with the pressure relief valve open.

I'll change the cap and give it a try and post updates here.

Yes I guess I'll get myself a Durametric kit soon.

Hey Guys,

Can you please help get my code as well

CDR220 Becker1

Type: 4462

Ser: 15061856

Thanks

Hakim

Hello all,

I took my 2001 boxster on a drive down from San Francisco to Santa Barbara this weekend and had problems.

First, as I pulled into the driveway in SB, I saw coolant spilling off the side, opened the trunk and found it oozing out from around the cap perhaps and out through overflow tube. Put the key back in ignition to check temp and it showed around 200. No CEL or any other signs. It didnt look like it had been draining all the way along. probably happened just when i stopped.

I let it cool and next day was a sunday and couldnt take it to the shop for a checkup. Got some coolant and topped it up. Seemed like a about a gallon of coolant had drained off. Started up, no bad signs ran well (temp still about 200) and so I decided to carry on and bother about the issue once I got back home to SF.

Then again when I took an exit for gas after about 200 miles, I noticed the check engine light come up and soon stopped and noticed the coolant spilling off again. Let it cool for a good couple hours. Checked around with little hope but obviously no shop open on a sunday evening. Topped up the coolant again and then was able to drive again and reached home (another 250 miles) without further events. The car ran smooth as ever and temp still sticking around 200 (apart from check engine light that stayed on - but wasnt blinking)

Car hadnt been showing any other trouble signs before this as well. It does give out some good smoke (which appears white) at startup from the exhaust and kinda smells like gas (I had looked that up and it seemed like that was a regular thing with boxster's flat engine so didnt bother).

It is currently doing 94K miles. Around 90K the coolant pump broke which I had replaced on my own (with help from the board of course). Also had it undergo a 90K major service soon after and that changed the drivebelt among other things

Any ideas on what could be the problem? I will take it to the shop for the check engine light anyway but thought a self-assessment was in order before that, as usual.

Thanks in anticipation

Hakim

I've really been trying to remove the hose from the pump for the past one hour but it seems really stuck. Is there a trick to it? special tools? I have the clamp off. some one please reply soon

The hose is just stuck on there from the years and heat cycles during which it has been on there, along with maybe some dried coolant.

You can use a plastic "spoon", which is used by upholstery or windshield shops and work it slowly around the perimeter of the hose. Don't use a metal tool unless its edges are rounded and smooth, otherwise you may run the risk of poking a hole through the hose.

Be patient, it will come off. It has no choice. ;)

Regards, Maurice.

yup thanks! it did! I had to wedge it a bit and some coolant leaked from the side and lubricated it and that made it budge instantly :)

Hi,

This is my first attempt to do a write up, hopfully this can help some people out. Here are the tools that you need:

1. hose clamp

2. spring-band clamp pliers

3. Torx socket

4. flexible head socket wrench

First, you need you to remove underside panel to get to the coolant hoses. Then clamp shut coolant hoses with hose clamps.

Then, undo drain plug at water guide housing and collect coolant.

Next, undo pring-band clamps with pliers.

From the top: the shop manual says to remove the right hand seat, which I did not do, but I think you will have more room to work around.

Then, remove service cover at passenger compartment rear wall. To do this, first remove rear-wall lining, then undo 9 hexagon-head bolts (10mm) and remove cover.

Those with the drive belt in-tact, need to remove the belt first, my belt was destroyed by the water pump (1st pic), so I skipped this step.

After the belt is off, you can now take off the water pump using flexible wrench, socket is 10mm. There are 7 nuts in total if I remembered correctly, and the bottom 2 nuts I managed to get it off from the under side. ;)

After all the nuts are off, take the water pump off, and remove it. You can see in the pic that mine is very very broken.

From here, install is just the reverse, make sure to put in the seal, otherwise it will leak. Put everything back and fill up the coolant see if it leaks ( if you have tools to pressure test it, even better!) drive around and let the bubble out, fill up, then you're done! :D B)

make sure when you put the belt back, put belt in in this sequence: water pump, alternater, intermediate roller, power-steering, air-con compressor drive pulley, crankshaft, idler roller, then over the tensioning roller. Make sure you use correct socket size for your size, 2.7 uses 24mm, 2.5 uses 19mm.

I've really been trying to remove the hose from the pump for the past one hour but it seems really stuck. Is there a trick to it? special tools? I have the clamp off. some one please reply soon

so any reviews/suggestion on URO brand?

you might also want to check on the water pump pulley and the other ones. I had a shrill noise on my boxster when the coolant pump bearing/shaft gave away and it started rubbing against the pump cover.

Does anyone have an opinion on the Uro brand water pump retailing on http://www.fcpgroton.com ($110)

Suncoast (http://www.suncoastparts.com/) is selling porsche part for $199 and my local dealer for $316

Why would suncoast sell the porsche part cheaper than my local dealer? It doesnt say rebuilt either. Also should i really care to get a porsche part or URO brand is good enough?