Mother

Sorry, that is the newer style LED cluster - it only work on MY01 and newer 996's.

Thanks Loren, noticed there is not a parts list in members area or did I miss it? I think I found via a link to a website containing it.

I had lost my part number pdf for my 2000 996 and need to see if this PN# will work "Porsche 996 641 980 76 70C". And if anyone can head me in the right direction to get the Porsche PN list that would be great.

How do I fix this nasty dashboard leather wrinkle the sun has caused?

Dash wrinkle

Ouch not a great place for lifting. If you do not want to remove the whole dash maybe a leather shop for some adhesive that you can apply via brush and getting a piece of contoured wood to jam in there until it dries then do the folding edge at window last by hand and hold in place until it dries.

Hello guys does anyone have a laser jammer installed on there 996. Radar detectors are no match for police laser. I have a Valentine 1 that does detect laser, but once it warns you it's to late. So I have reserched the Blinder M25 Extreme. It seems to jam all police laser. (not radar) I do mostly highway driving and am taking a trip to the West Coast (2000 miles of highway one way :drive: ) and I would like to cruise at 90 mph. If you have a laser jammer on your 996 please let me know how you like it and if it is worth the money. Thanks

Don't worry about speed at that level crossing the dakotas, MT, WY, ID, but once entering WA.....

10MPH below posted speed is the only "safe" way through AZ.

What should I check I am getting no heating in my 2000, 996 stick. I have the temp turned up but nothing! The AC works fine it also does not seem to vent properly using either the defrost switch etc.

I appreciate everyones input. I didnt mean to stir anyone up, but just want peoples Pcar advice.

It was installed by EVO in AZ

Took it to an Indy and he said he tracked it down to the oil cooler.

Is that on the right side of the engine it's #11 in picture?

I have a '02 C4 that is Supercharged, but now it is spraying oil from the right side of the engine.

It does it only when it is being driven not revved while stopped.

I was told that may be because a valve on the engine designed to open when the pressure gets too much is probably faulty and is opening too soon

Anybody heard of such a valve? And does it break?

i seem to have the same problem, mother, did you find the solution to your problem yet?

Been along time since I did mine but I recall taking 2 nuts off then the halfs can be seperated and removed from car.

Item 10, I do not think it can be replaced by itself.

Those shots were taken on my PST2 using the Instrument cluster Actual Values.

If you cover the sensor in the cluster it should change dramatically - likewise if you shine a flashlight at it.

I think I have a cluster problem, but am curious where this sensor is located and can it be replaced?

There is a sensor that looks at ambient light to control the cluster brightness.

If you have a PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric software you should be able to test the sensor.

Tried searching but nada, My dash lights do not come on at night is there a dimming feature I can use to turn them up?

Noticed with blower fan turned up that the left side (drivers side) barley gets air coming out? Right side ok and centers seem ok. I checked the ducts on left side and all are connected and the vent is in open position. Is there something under the center console that could be disconnected?

I removed the fuse panel and inpected and looked good, but it turns out that the wire was getting hot leading me to believe it was a component causing the problem.

Pulled the passenger fan and it barley would turn.... bearings and overheating present, so put another in and it's works great so far and fuse is just warm now with 30 amp fuse. If can just get another 40 amp fuse somewhere checker just had up to 30 amps. Thanks everyone for your help learned allot especially that a fast turning fan does not mean that it is a problem.

Yes, fan 1 is the front left and fan 2 is front right.

and yes, the ballast can be changed by itself.

OK this is what I have so far. Fuse still burning.

1. Fan spins freely no rubbing #1 fan

2. Changed with another ballast (wrecking yard) No Change still hot and fan seems to spin on high speed or faster then the #2 fan (passenger side).

3. Removed both fan #1 relays #19,20 No fans on and fuse still gets hot.

4. Just turn the ac switch on and now it gets hot (with relays removed).

Now it seems the fans are not the problem

As a note though the fan #1 fans comes on to a high speed where as the fan #2 stays on low with ac switch on- hope this does not confuse issue furthor.

Chances are you have a bad ballast, stuck relay, or bad fan.

Thanks Loren,

Is the drivers side fan considered Fan 1? and can the balast be purchased seperatley?

19 Radiator Fan 1 - Setting 1 141 951 253 B

20 Radiator Fan 1 - Setting 2 141 951 253 B

21 Radiator Fan 2 - Setting 1 141 951 253 B

22 Radiator Fan 2 - Setting 2

Fan GURUS please apply!! Searched and did not find what I needed normanclature seems different. Well finally new engine in running good but during initial shack down lost my AC by burning out/melting the 40 amp fuse in C8 position which is "radiator fan right". This is phoenix so by noon in june it's 100 plus degrees, anyway I got home and after letting her sit over night and noticed that the AC works with fuse out? With AC off and the fuse "in" the fuse stays cool, but when I hit the AC Switch I hear which sems like 2 (drivers side fans) come on and the fuse heats up qwickly to the point that it starts to smoke and I shut engine off and pull fuse out. Any Ideas where to look first and I have not had a chance to hook up my durametric will this help me at all?

Heard back from the dealer, they confirmed the MAF being the most logical place to start, so I gave them the goahead to slap a new one in. He mentioned they aren't going to clear the codes to see if they go away within a drive-cycle. So, exactly what is a drive-cycle in late model Porsche? There must be some criteria the engine management system uses to determine when a drive-cycle has been completed.

Oh, and the DME is helpless... new one installed is $2200 :(

When all is done I would take it to another dealer and see if they can read the DME. The dealer near me did it all wrong and thought I had a problem also until someome told them how to use the tester.

well the new parts are in and the car is up and running again, it sure feels a whole lot diffrent with a new clutch in there, but it seems to be doing good! expet for the 90+ degree weather making me and the car a little warm.....

thanks for everyones help!!

Congrats and glad all went well. Did you use a power bleeder or do it the old fashion way?

well i got the new clutch in and the updated parts and i am still having issues the clutch is sticking and the pressure is not there, and the slave just started spewing liquid, so new clutch slave for me....

on order, waiting another week

at least i caught the clutch before it messed up the flywheel, it was defiantly worn out!

next question is how do i bleed the clutch after i replace the slave?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7064

Got the right part in...turned out the part that I originally received was in the correct bag (right part number on the bag, just the wrong part). The clip on the right in the picture below is the wrong one...no clue what that ones for...

And my plans for this 3 day weekend include:

I got the parts in for the updated version of the clutch release lever and based on some pics that I've seen thru this site, I'm not sure I've got all the right parts. I'm not sure if the metal clip that I have is correct, if so, I'm struggling with how the assy goes together. Any help would be much appreciated. See pic below for details.

Thanks

Keith

Anybody???... In talking with Sunset, it seems all of the part numbers are correct, but the picture they sent me from the PET shows a different clamp that what I have...

Mine is a 2000 year 996 but, check out site when I did mine, it has pictures but not much explanation. I did not like the way they did the clip either but modified to where I felt it would stay on. After installing parts on the lever it just pushes on. Hope this helps.

http://www.webbspot.com/porsche/html/tranny-eng.html

Mother,

Thanks for the input, I had already looked at your pics which is part of the reason why I feel I have the wrong clamp. The one that you show is the correct part (not sure what you had to modify).

I got the car back today and I thought I'd better update, just for the record....

The mechanic said he went over everything he could in the rear end and looked high and low for the source of the noise, and as a last ditch effort, he took the new flyweel off and checked it - and sure enough, it came from Porsche defective.

I asked him how often something like that happens and he said maybe once a year he gets a bad factory part.

"It was just bad this time since it was such a labout intensive job - no refund from Porsche on that..."

Thanks.