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Mother

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Posts posted by Mother

  1. I got the parts in for the updated version of the clutch release lever and based on some pics that I've seen thru this site, I'm not sure I've got all the right parts. I'm not sure if the metal clip that I have is correct, if so, I'm struggling with how the assy goes together. Any help would be much appreciated. See pic below for details.

    Thanks

    Keith

    post-26131-1211044023_thumb.jpg

    Anybody???... In talking with Sunset, it seems all of the part numbers are correct, but the picture they sent me from the PET shows a different clamp that what I have...

    Mine is a 2000 year 996 but, check out site when I did mine, it has pictures but not much explanation. I did not like the way they did the clip either but modified to where I felt it would stay on. After installing parts on the lever it just pushes on. Hope this helps.

    http://www.webbspot.com/porsche/html/tranny-eng.html

  2. As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

    My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

    thanks

    Much easier to do the starter with engine out..highly recommend.

    I've not removed the engine, only the gearbox. just wondered if it was easier to get to now that the gearbox is out of the way?

    thanks

    Sorry my mistake, but is still easier with the GB out. You can see my starter, flywheel and clutch install hear.

    http://www.webbspot.com/porsche/html/tranny-eng.html

  3. As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

    My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

    thanks

    Much easier to do the starter with engine out..highly recommend.

  4. I got a 01' C2 and when I was trying to open up the A-Pillar trim and the air vent trim to investigate the rattle noise, I'm not sure how but one of the clips that hold the A-Pillar trim dropped into the hole where the clips clip on. I could hear the clip dropped into car's body.

    I'm wonder if there is a way to get the clip out as I do not want to add another rattling source to my car :(

    Thanks in advance.

    Get another clip and put back together, Out of sight out of mind I say.
  5. Options

    1)Send in the core and get a Porsche factory remanufactured engine $8K with core exchange + $2K warranty, by requiring us to send them an unopened core Porsche keeps to themselves what went wrong. The bigger issue is am I getting an improved motor with the new 3.4L. I talked to 3 dealers today who think but are not sure that the bearing (single) on the 3.4 is now bigger on the intermediate shaft, which could most likely have been the cause of failure. Has anything changed in the remanufactured 3.4 liter engine? I really don't want to spend $10K to get another failure in 50,000 more miles. While I get a 2 year warranty I don’t even come close to 5K miles per year on this car so it will not likely fail again until after the warranty is up.

    Thanks in Advance

    Where can you get the stock engine for $8000 share the wealth. Lowest I found is $8600. I would stick to the 3.4 with warrenty and is the least complicated vs 3.6-3.8 for the novice. Just my 2 cents

  6. Well, I've no experience rebuilding a Porsche engine but it can't be THAT complicated despite being a flat-6. I've rebuild V-6 & V-8 motors, some of which I could probably do in my sleep even after not doing that kind of work for nearly 20 years.

    Besides the basic metric sockets, wrenches and perhaps a torque wrench or two and an engine stand, I can't imagine the tools being too expensive. After all, if you're going to rebuild the core it may be worth it to give it a whirl.

    Mother, what's wrong with the engine you're replacing?

    Rotor

    I had problems with my RMS leaking after I explained that they used the wrong/or dated tool originally and they changed the IMS seal also. After airing greviences they bleed my brakes and checked Alternator and did not charge for parts so they excepted some responsibilty anyway.

    Well figuring I would move on with life drove my car out and at first stop light noticed a unbalanced vibration feeling on take off and accelerating I was going to turn around take it back but after talking with them just wanted to get out of there and home and maybe it would settle in.

    Well going up my street decided to give it some more gas .....bad move and that... was ...that ... it vibrated terrible and something sounded like it broke so pulled in my driveway leaving a stream of oil and there she sits with about a cup of oil under the eng, I had no idication of failure no idiot lights and water temp was about 170 degrees. I called the shop she said she was scared and I just said I was depressed I now spent $700 bucks on a seal that was not my fault and sounds like a blown engine to boot. My best guess is intermediate shaft went.

  7. Let's bring this back to the top since I'm looking for an engine as well. Los Angeles Porsche Dismantlers is selling 996 engines for $6500 used. I'll definitely pass on that.

    Mother - which dealer did you call and got the $6,500 quote for an engine? Lowest I've seen is Sunset at $8,400 plus shipping.

    I called porsche scottsdale, but he (service manager) was just kinda guessing, I also called suncoast in oregon. Still have not got mine yet maybe we should do a group buy. How's you're results coming?
  8. Hi All

    I have two problems at the moment!!

    1. in my drivers seat when I raise the front up under my knees the seat rocks up and down a little when don to the last no issue. This is anoying when accelerating. Any suggestions on a solution or a replacement part before I start to take the seat out.I have my first DE event with PCA in NH on the end of April (anybody going). I would like to get this fixed along with some other things before this.

    2. My passanger side parking light is out. On following the instructions in my owners manual I dont have the correct tool.What is the part number of the tool I need to unlock and rotate out the compleate light. It is missing from my tool kit.

    thanks for all your help

    Christopher

    MY99 6speed cab

    Are the front seat bolts tight? Or the bolts near front motor assy loose they tighten to the seat rails.

    post-4095-1206935519_thumb.jpg

  9. I have a 1999 996 and the digital gauges don't seem to turn off when the car is turned off. I exit and close the doors, the interior lights go off, but the digital gauges won't turn off. Any assistance please.

    Thanks

    Same problem with mine and was told it was possible the cluster is bad. My alternator is not working so I will try that first to see if problem still exists. If you find out let us know.
  10. I don't think you are going to know if it is the IMS or RMS (or both) without removing the transmission and flywheel.

    I agree. Knowing that it could be the ISS also, then it's going to a shop for a checkup. At 12k miles, it's too early for a new clutch but I may just get a new one anyway. I think I'll tell my indy to try the GT3 motorsports seal.

    :renntech:

    Did you try the GT3 motorsports seal and how did it work out for you? I have the 997 seal in my 2001 engine and it leaked within 3 hrs driving time. If the new seal worked what was the PN#. Hopefully find out soon what to use since it is going in the shop tomorrow.

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