Mother

I agree and will wait for sensor to show up and head to parts store or salvage yard. I tried searching online parts and what a pain.<_<

Logray,

I just ordered the sensor and comes with no wires and have to make my own harness. Good idea with blow dryer or maybe my Durametric scanner shows intake air temp and if wires are reversed I would guess it will show a neg number I hope. Trouble also if finding a connector.

I maybe wrong and it might not be possible but wouldn't it be better to relocate the MAF to after the cooler. That way the MAF is as close to the throttle body as you can get it and then you wouldn't need to rewire for a seperate IAT. It looks like you have already gone to a lot of trouble modifing the intake so maybe that is another option.

Jermmy

The only measurement taken by the MAF in my case will be the intake Air Flow and does not matter where it is located as long as it before the compressor and as we know there is not much room in the engine comp to move much around.

You mentioned checking resistance for plus and minus and was wondering if IAT sensor is not marked which is the positive using meter?

Please excuse the protype intake it has been changed, however the IAT would be relocated on the IC on the out port after the cooling takes place from compressed air before entering throttle body. I was concerned about using eng grd and seemed that it should be grounded thru the MAF ground wire.

Perhaps 1999Porsche911 would chime in, although I haven't seen him here for a long time.

Another way would be to take ground from a separate ground point since you are adding another air intake sensor.

Sorry for confusion I am actually removing the MAF temp sensor (by cutting the wire) and just relocating it to separate IAT sensor in the IC for the SC I believe it will be a more accurate reading of true air temp for DME. Thanks for feedback.

I wish to add a separate IAT (inlet air temp sensor) to my SC rather then the one in the MAF, however wondering about the ground wire for a 2000 - 996. Would it be "Grounded" by "T" off the BRN/WHT wire and cut and use the BLU/GR as the sensor temp or is the sensor grounded to frame or another way?

I ran a tank full 100LL in my 84 bmw years back and the car ran cooler, response was faster and was pleased for a week then noticed that the engine sounded noisier maybe loser is better word in a strange way so mixed rest with standard gas and stayed with that since engine noise quit.

The voltage across bat=12.45V

alt + to ground (eng) = 12.45V

also to the terminal block in eng bay reading was 12.48V.

Replace with new reg from pelican and now alt does not work at all when tested - reinstalled old reg - retested and worked great. The PN# I got from pelican was F00M 144 136-395 and was for my year. They are checking it now.

Thanks, I will revisit that thread allot of good info... the reason I dismissed it was that you actually had voltage build, with mine I have none. It is interesting problem because it was charging fine until installing my SC which leads me to belt slippage problem but checking these things first can save me 3 hrs labor to uninstall everything.

I will check the battery cables I am not sure what the resistance should be. Is there a resistance value if I go from the positive cable on battery back to the cable on the alt?

Not sure by what you mean "Torque"?

The cable is as old as the car 2000, but it has been in dry climate and seems I do not get any voltage build at all. Just wondering what the connector with the 2 wires that connects to the alternator do? I am replacing the alt reg anyway, but it did check out good at shop.

I removed my alternator since It was not charging even alittle when cold. I removed it had it checked out and it was "good", I am installing a new regulator since it is out and am thinking of belt slippage problem since I run a custom supercharger however at this time am changing setup to get more grip on alternator.

I have a question the large wire on alt I get battery voltage but was wondering what I can check on the connector going to it if any that may cause a zero charge problem.

The upgraded fuel map from FVD I installed over the X51 map worked fine with no problems and runs good except alternator not working crap :cursing: off comes the SC again.

Unfortunately I missed them actually programming it, however I uploaded it to FVD for tuning of the map itself and will find out if any problems exsist. The software I use to install the modded maps is different using .XTT files and do not require PIWIS. My understanding is that there are two chips in the ECU that need to match to be programmed like a base map chip and fuel map chip and they need to talk to each other bad explanation I know but it's the best I have and should come with a disclaimer.

Curious with PIWIS, does it have the option for installing the X51 for the 3.4 engine.?

They where able to program it with X51 with Piwis and did not require authorization or any special codes and as far as I know I have a 7.2 ECU but will check when Durametric is hooked up next time?

Need to have car flashed with X51 software is this software available at the dealers and can be installed readily if requested for 2000 996.

I was told by the FVD programmers that I need x51 software in the ECU/DME but never got a reason why? Why would I need this I never needed it in the past to program my car?

I was told by the FVD programmers that I need x51 software in the ECU/DME but never got a reason why? Why would I need this I never needed it in the past to program my car?

I assume this is due to PIWIS

Reply FVD

if you increase the flashcounter which is being triggered when flashing with the Piwis (Porsche Factory tester) it is correct that the DME locks you out after 3 or 5 flash sessions.

I will ask FVD tuning as it would take the fun out of programming,

Thanks, I had one more question is that in Porsche training they say that the DME can only be programmed 5 times before locking itself out? Any truth to this.?

Well it's up and running :clapping:.. the problem was since porsche orginally programmed the dme and immo with the vins they lost the info/codes and they can not download from immo to verify the numbers I gave them originally which did not work. Even with the new immo the original dme could not connect to program so off to the salvage yard for a dme brought it to them and they where able to program it with the original vin of my car in the immo to match the dme I gave them and vaaaroooom. Moral of story always keep original vins of the immo it's the most important. I would like to thank everyone for your input on this matter and now it's on to bricking my new setup. :clapping:

No I have not tried a different DME however being that it is at a dealer they would have a way to download/read the Code from the IMMO to verify that it is matching the DME. When I hooked up my Durametric to test I did not get any error codes of there being a mismatch using the Vin/Codes that I gave them. I wished they had a spare DME to test with to verify that it is not a bricked DME at least this would point in some direction and verification rather then just replacing parts. I suppose worst case is I can get a used DME and have them redo with my vin/codes.