Mother

I run verdsteins and 295/30 rears with 235/35 front 305 fit and have heard 325 fit also but cannot atest to that.

Pictures please.

I got mine off ebay.

Just thought I would let everyone know I changed the ignition switch and problem has not recurred.

Have you checked what your vacuum does when you apply the brakes and the car stalls?

I was just going to test the check valve at the booster. No, I have not how is this done.

Thanks, I agree and will take that route.

Noticed something unusual last night with the ignition switch, that if I turn the key switch slightly to the right when car is running the car stalls (maybe safety precaution) or if I step on the brake pedal. Also noticed when I turn the key switch to the 1st ON position (car not running) that the idiot lights/warning come ON but when I relax the key the lights go out and seems to not stay in the on position keeping the lights ON. Maybe I have a ignition switch problem? The ignition switch is not but a maybe 2 years old with little use.

Anyone

Thanks for pointing out the check valve. At 1/2 bar or at around 5 psi charge pressure is very little for a check valve to handle and the systems that have been used for years seem to not suffer from the pressure. Most if not all I know of use a BOV valve to release surge pressure when going off WOT to protect the engine. I am not familiar with the brake boost system workings so not sure, however others do not suffer from insufficient brake boost that I am aware of using a supercharger.

Using durametric

error codes DME

PO 0410 or 80 porsche code secondary air

PO 0411 or 208 porsche code secondary air

ABS /PSM

PO 4210 right speed sensor

Voltage supply is 13.7V

Cleared codes everything but speed sensor cleared, the others occur from time to time.

Boy that booster looks like a pain in the xxx to change but where is the check valve and if by the picture this is it does it just pull out of it? Also the line goes to something I'm not familiar with anyone venture a guess.

Nothing extra is added for running a Supercharger and should have no effect on the brake circuit that I know of or did I miss something in the question. The stock engine vacuum is used as far as I know for the brake booster from what little I know of the brake system.

Remove belt to test and go from there.

I do not have the schematic in front of me but anyone know if any of the brake switch wires could actually shut down the car.?

Is your battery/alternator indicator glowing? My guess is that perhaps something is wrong with your electrical system like maybe your alternator and or battery or maybe something with your supercharger sucking too much power at start up. Since when you apply your brakes that uses up some juice, maybe enough to stall your car.

Supercharger is off at present and the alternator is new and registers 13-14V and lights work ok not draining anything, it just simply shuts off if I tap the pedal almost like it is the brake switch.

No check engine light or any other odd issues happening?

I do have a check engine light on but due to something else unrelated last time I checked and need to stick the durametric on it again, but can not remember ... is there is anything that would show the symptom I have. I'll give it a try tomorrow. I'll post up some P error codes tomorrow. My ABS abd OSM lights are coming on and off at times fluid is full and have changed the clutch master cylinder recently.

Applying brake pedal stalls car when cold but restarts with no problem and also seems to go away most of the of the time when it is warmed up. Anyone had this problem.

I had this problem on another car several years ago. It was the power brake booster. Hitting the brakes at idle introduced a big vacuum leak.

Interesting I do think I have a problem with the booster the brakes have to be pumped up and have changed most things but that. I also have ABS and PSM coming on/off but has plenty of fluid. It just seems odd almost like it's when the brake switch is energized cold that it stall/shuts off at idle without actually applying pressure yet and when I drove down the block to the first stop sign it did not stall and using actual brake pressure.

Applying brake pedal stalls car when cold but restarts with no problem and also seems to go away most of the of the time when it is warmed up. Anyone had this problem.

I'm a late comm-er to this thread but great read.

Did you clean the MAF and make sure the MAF connector is well seated.

Same identical problems with lights and I cleaned the wheel sensors on each wheel with no change. Please post your findings as I am stumped also. The only thing I did recently was a new clutch master cylinder and bleed.

Stuck oil ring is a possibility.

The best Porsche of all time is not on your list.

Any Porsche that resorts to turbos and all-wheel-drive (that would be the one appropriately in the background here) goes against the minimalist philosophy that made the marque great in the first place!

IMHO :D

I agree turbo's deserve not to be mentioned.

OOPs pic's just slipped in.

Hello, I did 996 into 986 cluster swap after reading the article Bill Posted on this site. Since I have completed my project more information has been added. Everything you need to know and do is in the article Bill posted. If you have any specific questions I may be ble to help some but my car is a 2001 and there are some differences with model specs and features (We did get everything to work even the factory on board computer and factory cruse control) Hats off to Bill and Loren....

Sorry, first part number must be wrong as it does not come up on any of my lists.

The second one (996.641.103.01.70c) was replaced by 996.641.103.02.70c and then 996.641.103.03.70c -- so it will work but it is likely from 1998.

01986320S,

I'm not sure if it pertains to me as I am just swapping one for the other in same car however the article sounds like a nice read do you have a link? I would like to find out if I can swap odometers from on to the other.

Thanks Loren I'll recheck first number. The second one the odometer does not work is can it be replaced with my working one?

Will either a

996611030270c

or

996.641.103.01.70c

cluster fit a 2000 996 manual?

All good replays and not that stock belt is not sufficiant I ended up going with a gatorbelt provides better grip.

What software is he using? Mine is FVD and they did the tuning with modified maps, and requires there cable to work with there software. The price does not seem to bad if it does what you need it to do and are they local to you would be a plus.

I would just install the reg to make sure that is the problem/rattle if you can before ordering anything new.