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1999/986
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Everything posted by 1999/986
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if the whole car was running lean could a failed MAF be the problem?
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you know, i didn't think it would be 4k per year. based on that number i suppose i'm right on track. 750 for maf and 800 for coolant tank. i might actually be ahead of the curve. thanks for the opinion jnc.
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in the future i think i'm going to only buy cars under warranty. this is probably the only way i'll keep my blood pressure down!
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does anyone have any information/opinions on what would be considered "average" annual maintenance costs for a porsche? i realize this cost would increase as the car ages and also vary according to how the car is driven, so assume typical driver typical wear. is this a linear increase? or exponential? or otherwise? also, of all of the usual problems with a boxster (maf, coolant reservoir, rms leak, etc) what is the likelyhood of experiencing them? i have already replaced the maf and the coolant reservoir. is the rear main seal next? any other info on how these things age would be helpful too. i'm just generally curious so anyone's two cents is absolutely welcome. thanks. lsc
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well, i got my cap ordered. since i'm waiting on the cap i've been watching the level and looking for the dripping under the car and so on. i've noticed dripping under the car, mostly just a few drips resulting in a 2-3 inch diameter wet spot on the ground. however, a couple of times the dripping has become significant, ususally resulting in a running puddle of coolant. i see no correlation between the temperature of the car (thus tank pressure) and the size of the puddle. today i noticed a pretty good amount of steam coming from under the trunk carpet (it was coming out in the corner where the taillights are). this was a first. still, the carpet was competely dry. you mentioned a leaking tank would probably result in wet carpet. all the coolant that i can see is draining out the by the right rear wheel. do you still think this is a cap issue? could it be the tank? thanks for your help. lee
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well, i think i've determined it's the only the cap. i'm not getting any puddling under the car but i'm getting some condesations around the oil and coolant caps as well as on the inside deck lid in that same area. i also notice a "steamy" smell in the trunk after the car is warmed up good. i'm going to try the cap first then go from there.
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gang, could someone point me to some of the other posts regarding coolant tank leaks? i haven't been able to find them via the search. by the way toolpants, since i miserably failed with the tail light issue, you'll be glad to know i'm just going to take it in for this one. if it's just a leaky tank the bill shouldn't be too bad.....i hope. lee
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anyone?
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hey toolpants, can you tell me where the wires run to FROM the connector at the bulb holder? does it go to the fuse panel? i checked the wire just past the connector (on the wire side) and there is no voltage there. so, i have ruled out the bulb holder and the wiring in the conenctor as the cause of my problem. that is bad since now the problem could be anywhere between the connector and the power source. if i can find the other end of the wires then i can check the voltage there and try to trace the problem back. are there any diagrams available for this? thanks for your help. lsc
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yeah, that's the one i'm having trouble with. i'm just going to get a multimeter and try to pinpoint the problem. i now noticed that the blinker and the brake light work on that side (not sure about the reverse light, i need a helper) but the "running lights", i.e., lights that are on when the headlights are on, still do not work. i must have just loosened something in that connector when i was pulling it out. it sure seemed sensitive, i just hope something didn't break at the other end of the wire. you don't happen to know where the wires from the connector lead to do you? also, you don't have any service manual pages about that light do you?
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it's a LHD. i thought it was a brake light. i agree, i may have done something for nothing and am now in worse shape than when i started. regardless, nothing on the driver's side is working (except the brake light). that is, when i turn the lights on, nothing on the rear driver's side works until i press the brake and the brake light comes on. it stopped working when i was taking the drivers side holder out. i pressed the tab and started trying to work it out. all the sudden it went out. very strage. i'm sorry if i'm confusing you toolpants.
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and if anyone has a pin-out for the harness and is willing to share the info that's be great.
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ok, easy enough. unfortunately, i have a new problem. the passenger side was the side with the light out. when i pulled it out it i was actually missing a bulb and i was curious to see if there was actually supposed to be one there so i pulled out the "bulb holder" piece from the driver's side to see if i had one over there. when i was taking it out (a much tighter squeeze) the whole thing went out!! so i jiggled and unplugged and plugged back and so on and so forth but nothing. i switched "bulb holder" between left and right and it still worked when plugged into the other side. that means it had to be wiring (probably the harness) but i was wondering if anyone could give me a little bit more advice. i don't have a multimeter so i can't check it. thanks for your help.
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can someone explain how to get in to my 99 boxter to change the brake lamp? i'm sure this isn't hard but i can't seem to figure it out. thanks for the help. lsc
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MAF/ Air Mass Meter Replacement
1999/986 replied to 1999/986's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
could anyone verify the years that DON'T require the computer to be reconfiged? -
MAF/ Air Mass Meter Replacement
1999/986 replied to 1999/986's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
ok, that's what i thought, but my mechanic says the computer needs to be recalibrated. is that not true for my 2.5? surely he would know this. please advise. lee -
Time for a new clutch and brakes?
1999/986 replied to greenboxster's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
i thought that hydrolic clutches didn't change engagment positions?? i was told that it would just become harder to press the pedal in as it became more worn. is this true? lsc -
Hey guys, i recently discovered that i needed a new air mass meter. My mechanic is going to charge me $604 + $174 for diagnostic (which i've already paid so i know it's the MAF) and i'd like to do it myself. Anyways, i know that replacing the meter is a relatively simple task (take out old, put in new) but he told me something that made me think i couldn't do it on my own. He said that since the meter went out the computer has been compensating for the lack of a meter and adjusting the fuel mixture itself. Apparently the computer does some time averaging and comes up with some sort of adjustment value that it uses to set the mixture. he said that when the meter is replaced, he'd have to go in and reset some of these values back to their MAF-is-working settings. so, i assume i can't do this on my own, but i want to know if there are any other solutions out there. sorry if it was posted in another forum but i haven't been able to find any info anywhere. i trust my mechanic, but it seems that if the comptuer time-averaged itself to a compensating fuel mixture, then it can uncompensate itself back to it's original values. PLEASE HELP! lsc