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masterbm

Contributing Members
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About masterbm

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    Contributing Member

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    Cincinnati, OH
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '99 Boxster
  1. Got it. Will tow. I'll keep everyone updated. . . B
  2. Yeah, I forgot to say that I got rid of the old coolant reservoir several years ago, after I had the standard "coolant leaks into my trunk" issue. No coolant in the trunk this time. B
  3. Uh oh. '99 Boxster with 160K was leaking a bit of coolant for a bit, then after a trip to the grocery store, steam started shooting out from coolant reservoir in trunk, and coolant starting pouring out of underside, by passenger side R wheel. It was like a teapot. . . . . .but that's not tea. I'm going to guess this is not a fix I can do myself. Anybody want to guess what it is, so I can tell the guys at the shop? What should I expect to pay? Shop is 20 mins from here, with significant highway driving. Can I dump distilled H2O to limp my car down there, or do I need a tow
  4. Thanks again to kbrandsma and por986 for their help. A donation has been made to this board in their name as well! Thanks for being good citizens! B
  5. All, DONE! FINALLY, got everything back in working order, clutch feels like a dream. Nice and soft but appropriately "sticky" as it engages early on. I love it. This project is do-able, but if you don't have a nice set of automotive tools, be prepared to go the local auto parts store quite a bit. Make sure you have plenty of metric wrenches, an appropriate triple square (aka "internal wrench," aka "double hex wrench," aka "bi hex wrench," aka "xzn wrench"), PB blaster penetrating oil, torque wrench, the special tool for replacing the seal if you can get it, maybe an extra RMS if you me
  6. Great albatross, Dr. SP! OK, RMS is on, looked good. New clutch and plate are on, no trouble. Tranny is tough to get back on, though. . .we've got 2 bolts threaded loosely, but can't seem to get the tranny any closer to the engine, despite lots of tugging and wrestling. Probably still 3/4 inch of a gap, and it just won't go on easy. Is this normal? It came off pretty easy. Shouldn't it go on easy if I've got it lined up right? Maybe I should take it out and re-approximate it. . . Any tips? B
  7. Update on what has become an albatross of a project: Be careful installing your new RMS: as we pushed it it, resistance around the flange caused the thin plastic to curl up and fold in on itself. Not good. Thank God my dad saw it, because we'd have been back under there in a few days wondering why my oil leak was much, much worse. Unfortunately, we had to put a hole in the new seal in order to get it out, and there was just no way to satisfactorily fix the fold in the seal without taking it out. #$@#!@!#@#!!!! The good news is that the fine people at Pelican Parts have probably got p
  8. SUCCESS!!! Autozone gave me a new bit, seemed of better quality. Flywheel is off, RMS in full view! Will try to tackle that this weekend. Then, reassembly and I'm off!!! Good because wife's getting tired of driving my a$$ around. B
  9. All, SUCCESS!!! The trick was the final, hidden, forward facing bolt at the very bottom of the transaxle. I just wasn't looking right. Came off like a champ, tranny came out like a champ, pressure plate and clutch came right off. I rounded out my T50 torx trying to get the flywheel bolts off. Guess it's back to the store to get another bit. If that doesn't work, anybody got any tips for getting the 8 torx bolts off? B
  10. All, Thanks to kbrandsma who was gracious enough to send me his triple square (and RMS tool), I got off what I think are all the bolts connecting the transaxle to the engine. In doing this project, I've found a number of surprises: 1. somebody had used a plastic tie to keep one of the shifter cables in place. Interesting. . . 2. I'M MISSING SOME BOLTS THAT FASTEN THE TRANSAXLE TO THE ENGINE. Holy God. . .Specifically, there seem to be no passenger side M10 nut (the one on the bottom, corresponding to letter H on Pelican's article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Te
  11. Friends, So far so good. . .cut bolts off the flanges connecting the exhaust system to the header, rest of everything came right out. Next stop: removing bolts connecting transmission to engine. I've got a piece of cardboard diagrammed to make sure I get the right bolts in the right place. . .gotta go get a 10 mm triple square head. As is the curse of the budding mechanic, I spend more time driving to the hardware store than fixing my car! Also, I've seen various solutions for rear main seal replacement "special tools." Anybody got ideas that are easier than constructing the "Lowe's
  12. You can drop the assembly from the headers back Then you can decide whether you want to split the exhaust Otherwise you can drill out the bolts, which is made easier with the whole assembly out. If u r in there strongly consider one of the IMS upgrades Mike Yeah, so any problem if I just pull out the whole system from basically where it looks like the manifold connects with the 3 bolts through that triangle-shaped part that leads to the cats? Can I just leave all 4 O2 sensors connected to the pipes, unplugging them from the electrical connection? Will that screw up emission
  13. All, Thanks for the help. Sounds like the thing to do is just cut those things right out. Will do. masterbm
  14. Friends, Well, the time has come. Given how I got ewedscre by the local echanicsme recently, dad and I started our own clutch replacement project today. Thanks to Wayne Dempsy, Pelican Parts, and the manual, things were cooking along pretty good. . . . . .until. . . Removing the muffler has us at a stopping point. The clamps closest to the muffler have, no surprise I guess, rusted pretty tight to the bolts. Actually, it's the nuts rusted to the bolts, but whatever. Anybody got some good tips on how to get those bolts and clamps off? Should I just buy a Dremmel or other cutting d
  15. Well, it was a bittersweet ending to the great case of the cranking-but-not-starting engine. Turns out gssereik on 986forum.com was correct: It was the crankshaft position sensor. Here's his post: >> Frankly it was a bit of a leap of faith... I described the symptoms in detail to a couple of local German car mechanics. Both of them indicated that it could be a sensor issue. Because the car ran perfectly once it did start. There were no drivability problems whatsoever. But the Crankshaft sensor in particular needs to get a reading on the position of the crankshaft or else the compute
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