rob76turbo

Did some work on a 2006 Cayenne Turbo. Part of the process is I removed the intake / fuel rail and cleaned them. When I put everything back together, all the connections for at the front of the engine and started it - it runs very rough, sounds like it is backfiring, if it does idle its very low RPM and when I press the throttle, nothing happens. 

I bought and installed a new Throttle Body (I dropped the first one during cleaning so I figured it could have been that). But with a new throttle body, it runs even worse. Did the Throttle body adjustment turning it one, waiting a minute while it calibrates (it does). I cannot tell if it is getting enough fuel or air. There is pressure on both sides of the fuel rail. Must admit, running out of ideas. Anyone have any ideas or questions that will help identify the issue?

Also it is not throwing any codes, but may not be able to run long enough to generate them. 

Thanks in advance!!!

Hello everyone,

LONG time no post. I have a 2004 CT with 4-Zone AC. It's a new car for me so still discovering what works...and what doesn't. So tried the rear AC for the first time. The blower blows plenty strong, but the air only comes from the floor vents and b-pillar vents. Nothing from the rear center vents. Then the air is not cold. 

How do you access the system to check for the freon level? How do you access the control for the center rear vents?

Any ideas, fixes or common problems I should look for? 

As always, thank you all for any advice / feedback!

OK, no codes. Really the vibration is only noticeable when stopped or in park. You can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel / seat of pants. I still come back to motor mounts as the potential culprit.

I'll check tomorrow and post up codes. Thanks Loren.

Has 110K miles. replaced plugs / coils about 30K ago. NO CEL.

So at start up, the truck idles very roughly, until you drop it in drive and accelerate. No issues during acceleration / running. But it vibrates again when idling at a stop light. Revving the motor cures the rough idle. 

Maybe crank case vent valve? I would think if it was a vacuum leak or secondary air / fuel pump, it would throw a code? I was also thinking motor mounts? 

Stumped!!

Thanks in advance!!

Rob T.

Well I can hear it! A loud pssssst sound on the passenger side of the engine. When I move the hoses, the sound gets louder and then gets less loud. I tried some carb cleaner and a butane torch, but could not detect the location of the leak. And when the motor shuts off, there is an extra loud PSSST. Oh well, my leak detection skills are lacking. Time to take it to my mechanic. They have a smoke machine.

My question is this - the leak sound is very distinct. Should there be any leaking sound out of that side of the motor, is that a common sound? Like I said, my leak detection skills are somewhat lacking. OK, they are non-existant.

Loran, can you post the diagram that shows the location of the PVC valve and please indicate which number it is on the diagram?

Thanks

rob T.

What year and model? (they are different)

DOH!! 2005 - V6, those numbered diagrams are fantastic, but cannot tell what part is what just based on the number. Looking to locate the PVC valve. Think I know which one it is, but just want to verify. Got the dreaded P2187, 2189 codes too.

Loran, can you post the diagram that shows the location of the PVC valve and please indicate which number it is on the diagram?

Thanks

rob T.

Just put in a new IMS, Flywheel, Clutch, Slave Cylinder, in my car. When we finally started it (it is still on the lift), I wanted to make sure it shifted gears properly, so I pressed in the clutch pedal and it slammed to the floor and stay there. I turned off the motor and reached down and pulled the pedea back up. I had bleed the clutch slave before reinstalling everything. The slave did not pop, meaning there was not a pool of fluid everywhere.

Also when we first started the car, one of the rear wheels would spin slowly. We could put a hand on it and it would stop, but the other would spin. But by pressing on both sides we could make both wheels stop spinning. Is this normal when the pedal goes to the floor and there is no pressure on the clutch.

So....do I need to rebleed the system? What is the procedure when the clutch pedal drops to the floor like that?

Thanks in advance!

Rob T.

If it were me, I would guess that whatever fuel in the fuel tank would be bad by now. I also would change the oil too and check the quality / quantity of the coolant. When engine and assoicated parts sit that long, just starting them up without taking some precautions in advance could mean you will damage the engine.

Would have helped if I had connected the #2 coil wire connector.... :huh:

Anyway, thanks Loren, as it turns out the squeak on start up and under partial throttle was loose spark plugs. I added anti-seize compound and tightened. I think that the solid motor mount (now replaced with a 987 MM) was partially to blame.

If one (or more) of the coil packs are not clicked properly into place, with the car give a CEL?

I had a squeak at start up and under partial throttle. Turns out the plugs were loose (I could remove them by hand). So I retightened, but may have missed a coil pack when reconnecting everything. And it is too late and I am tired...

__________________

My motor mount was completely cracked and shot. So I replaced it with a WEVO SS Motor mount, which for the most part is a racing motor mount. While we were under the car (it was up on a friends lift) we took the opportunity to really clean the wheel wells and sides of the engine. When we got the car back down and I started it, it runs very rough. Not at idle mind you, but runs rough across the rev range. So I am wondering if this is what I get for putting in a racing mount or did I maybe fry or short out a coil pack (with all that water). And if I did, wouldn't I get a CEL light?

Everyone, thanks for the suggestions. I am going to take a look at the tire tomorrow and the rest of the suspension / brake components as well. I am giong to take it for a spirited drive (albeit with my street tires) and see if I can duplicate the issue. I will post once I get past the next stages.

Thanks again!!

All,

Went and did a casual track day at MSR in Cresson, TX and very quickly noticed

something developing on my Boxster S.

Running Toyo R-888's and I felt a vibration and heard a thumping coming from the

right front tire. This only happened during right corners, when the right tire

in normally unloaded. During left hand corners, there was no noise. I looked at

the tire itself and saw that the outside edge was down to slick and the inside

edge still has some of the grooves left. This got progressively worse as I ran

sessions, and to note, there was some tread at that outside edge at the

beginning of the day. I am wondering if the uneven tire wear was contributing

to the vibration / noise. Another PCA / Boxster guy happened to be there

and as I described the issue to him, he thought wheel bearing, but I am not

sure... Any thoughts?

When I lock / unlock the doors and go to open the fuel filler door, it is stuck in the locked position. I have to pull the small ring inside the pass. door jam. Any ideas of how to unstick / replace?

Thanks in advance!

Rob t.

Title pretty much says it all! Driving, listening to my iPod through the CD Changer audio outs, then suddenly there were 4 very loud beeps (almost like an alarm) than nothing.... I pushed the "on" button...nothing. Got home, cycled the key in the ignition, pushed the on button, it looks like a faint background light come one, but nothing else. Seems the radio gave up the ghost.

Any thoughts / ideas? Sorry about the miss spelled word on the subject....should be Loud...not loub. Fat fingers!!!

Thanks in advance.

Rob t.

Title pretty much says it all... upon initial start up, the car idles fine. But after about 15 seconds there is a short period of time (maybe 5 seconds) where the idle stumbles badly (almost like it is going to die), then the idle returns to normal. Any ideas?

BTW, No fault codes. <_<

Time to clean the throttle body.

Do a search here - it's been covered many times.

THANKS Loran, I was thinking MAF /Throttle Body. Looks like I have a project this weekend!!!!!

Title pretty much says it all... upon initial start up, the car idles fine. But after about 15 seconds there is a short period of time (maybe 5 seconds) where the idle stumbles badly (almost like it is going to die), then the idle returns to normal. Any ideas?

BTW, No fault codes. <_<

HTH and congrats on doing your first track event!

Larez2

Ooops, should have said first track event in THIS car! Been a track rat for several years now and love it!! You know how it goes...buy car and then start figuring out what you can get away with (mods wise) based on budget and patience of spouse.... ;)

OK, first the good part (silver lining to the cloud), ran my first track event this weekend in the Box-S. The car was great, now I just need to make the driver a little bit better to keep up with the car performance. I think a few more DE's and I will be ready to move from Yellow (Int) to White (Advanced). A few more weekends like this, and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. :D

Now for the bad stuff. The battery light came on the dash. Checked the leads and noticed that the battery was loose. It had been banging back and forth in the tray the whole weekend. Had the trackside shop build me a "L" shaped bracket to lock down the battery and continued. Went back out and the battery light went out by the end of the session. Ran one more session and no problems.

Drove home and after awhile the ABS and Airbag lights came on the dash. I thought uh-oh, this is not good. But I thought I could maybe get it home. A few more miles later, the speedo went to 0 and a few hundred yards later, the whole christmas tree lit up at the bottom of the dash, the car gave a slight lurch and lost power. I coasted to a stop. Tried to start it and it made a very fast clicking sound and the lights blinked at the same cadence as the clicks. The emergency flashers worked though and I was able to roll down the window. :cursing:

2 hours later the tow truck finally arrived and now, thankfully, I am home.

So any ideas? I think the alternator is fried. I will download the codes and post them tomorrow and put a volt meter to the battery as well. Let me know if you think I should look at something else too. :unsure:

+1 on the Falken Azenis 615. I have had 2 sets on two different cars (Miata and Audi A3) and they are incredible for the price. They are very grippy:

An average tire has a treadwear rating of 300+, my Toyo R888 (R-rated track tire) have a rating of 100 and the 615's have a rating of 200. So they are softer than a normal tire, will wear faster too. But hey! I want the car to handle even when I am not on the track.

I use clean red shop towels where the straps rub the wheels. Seems to work find. I also questions about alignment too...

Loren,

Sometimes the key button (little metal dome) on the circuit board just plain wears out. You can either buy a new key or an old key and just transfer your transponder pill to the new key (with the working circuit board). Be sure and get a new key with the same number of buttons.

Just to make sure...I just need to buy a new 3-button fob / transmitter and then I can use my key blade and transponder pill. Do I still have to take it to the dealer for programming? OR does the key work with the transponder pill from my original key?

Thanks in advance!!!!

Starnge, as both keys seemed to stop working at the same time....

I tried several fixes: change polarity of battery, put the key in to the ignition switch / turned it on and off and tried the button. On one of the keys (which is actually in pretty bad condition {one of the micro switches is missing for instance and all the rubber on the buttons are broken)}, I can at least pop the front truck. This tells me the key is transmitting. But since the other rubber cover for the alarm function is completely gone, it is not surprising that it broke...

The other key is a mystery. I should have guessed that it was failing as I had to press the buttons several times for it to work. Changing the battery and the key not working was probably coincendital.

I will call around and see if someone has a used on in decent condition (on the cheap...) B)