Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

rob76turbo

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rob76turbo

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Texas
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars

    200 Speed Yellow 986 S
  • Future cars
    Lots of them too.
  • Former cars
    Lots of them

Recent Profile Visitors

594 profile views

rob76turbo's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. Did some work on a 2006 Cayenne Turbo. Part of the process is I removed the intake / fuel rail and cleaned them. When I put everything back together, all the connections for at the front of the engine and started it - it runs very rough, sounds like it is backfiring, if it does idle its very low RPM and when I press the throttle, nothing happens. I bought and installed a new Throttle Body (I dropped the first one during cleaning so I figured it could have been that). But with a new throttle body, it runs even worse. Did the Throttle body adjustment turning it one, waiting a minute while it calibrates (it does). I cannot tell if it is getting enough fuel or air. There is pressure on both sides of the fuel rail. Must admit, running out of ideas. Anyone have any ideas or questions that will help identify the issue? Also it is not throwing any codes, but may not be able to run long enough to generate them. Thanks in advance!!!
  2. Hello everyone, LONG time no post. I have a 2004 CT with 4-Zone AC. It's a new car for me so still discovering what works...and what doesn't. So tried the rear AC for the first time. The blower blows plenty strong, but the air only comes from the floor vents and b-pillar vents. Nothing from the rear center vents. Then the air is not cold. How do you access the system to check for the freon level? How do you access the control for the center rear vents? Any ideas, fixes or common problems I should look for? As always, thank you all for any advice / feedback!
  3. OK, no codes. Really the vibration is only noticeable when stopped or in park. You can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel / seat of pants. I still come back to motor mounts as the potential culprit.
  4. Has 110K miles. replaced plugs / coils about 30K ago. NO CEL. So at start up, the truck idles very roughly, until you drop it in drive and accelerate. No issues during acceleration / running. But it vibrates again when idling at a stop light. Revving the motor cures the rough idle. Maybe crank case vent valve? I would think if it was a vacuum leak or secondary air / fuel pump, it would throw a code? I was also thinking motor mounts? Stumped!! Thanks in advance!! Rob T.
  5. Well I can hear it! A loud pssssst sound on the passenger side of the engine. When I move the hoses, the sound gets louder and then gets less loud. I tried some carb cleaner and a butane torch, but could not detect the location of the leak. And when the motor shuts off, there is an extra loud PSSST. Oh well, my leak detection skills are lacking. Time to take it to my mechanic. They have a smoke machine. My question is this - the leak sound is very distinct. Should there be any leaking sound out of that side of the motor, is that a common sound? Like I said, my leak detection skills are somewhat lacking. OK, they are non-existant.
  6. What year and model? (they are different) DOH!! 2005 - V6, those numbered diagrams are fantastic, but cannot tell what part is what just based on the number. Looking to locate the PVC valve. Think I know which one it is, but just want to verify. Got the dreaded P2187, 2189 codes too.
  7. Loran, can you post the diagram that shows the location of the PVC valve and please indicate which number it is on the diagram? Thanks rob T.
  8. Just put in a new IMS, Flywheel, Clutch, Slave Cylinder, in my car. When we finally started it (it is still on the lift), I wanted to make sure it shifted gears properly, so I pressed in the clutch pedal and it slammed to the floor and stay there. I turned off the motor and reached down and pulled the pedea back up. I had bleed the clutch slave before reinstalling everything. The slave did not pop, meaning there was not a pool of fluid everywhere. Also when we first started the car, one of the rear wheels would spin slowly. We could put a hand on it and it would stop, but the other would spin. But by pressing on both sides we could make both wheels stop spinning. Is this normal when the pedal goes to the floor and there is no pressure on the clutch. So....do I need to rebleed the system? What is the procedure when the clutch pedal drops to the floor like that? Thanks in advance! Rob T.
  9. If it were me, I would guess that whatever fuel in the fuel tank would be bad by now. I also would change the oil too and check the quality / quantity of the coolant. When engine and assoicated parts sit that long, just starting them up without taking some precautions in advance could mean you will damage the engine.
  10. Would have helped if I had connected the #2 coil wire connector.... :huh: Anyway, thanks Loren, as it turns out the squeak on start up and under partial throttle was loose spark plugs. I added anti-seize compound and tightened. I think that the solid motor mount (now replaced with a 987 MM) was partially to blame.
  11. If one (or more) of the coil packs are not clicked properly into place, with the car give a CEL? I had a squeak at start up and under partial throttle. Turns out the plugs were loose (I could remove them by hand). So I retightened, but may have missed a coil pack when reconnecting everything. And it is too late and I am tired... __________________
  12. My motor mount was completely cracked and shot. So I replaced it with a WEVO SS Motor mount, which for the most part is a racing motor mount. While we were under the car (it was up on a friends lift) we took the opportunity to really clean the wheel wells and sides of the engine. When we got the car back down and I started it, it runs very rough. Not at idle mind you, but runs rough across the rev range. So I am wondering if this is what I get for putting in a racing mount or did I maybe fry or short out a coil pack (with all that water). And if I did, wouldn't I get a CEL light?
  13. Everyone, thanks for the suggestions. I am going to take a look at the tire tomorrow and the rest of the suspension / brake components as well. I am giong to take it for a spirited drive (albeit with my street tires) and see if I can duplicate the issue. I will post once I get past the next stages. Thanks again!!
  14. All, Went and did a casual track day at MSR in Cresson, TX and very quickly noticed something developing on my Boxster S. Running Toyo R-888's and I felt a vibration and heard a thumping coming from the right front tire. This only happened during right corners, when the right tire in normally unloaded. During left hand corners, there was no noise. I looked at the tire itself and saw that the outside edge was down to slick and the inside edge still has some of the grooves left. This got progressively worse as I ran sessions, and to note, there was some tread at that outside edge at the beginning of the day. I am wondering if the uneven tire wear was contributing to the vibration / noise. Another PCA / Boxster guy happened to be there and as I described the issue to him, he thought wheel bearing, but I am not sure... Any thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.