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Duramtetric only says unknown fault codes 72 and 75 on the transmission test.
99 Boxster Tiptronic - Runs fine when cold on first startup every day. I only drive it around town in stop/go traffic, and after about 20-30 minutes the transmission starts jerking, awkward hard upshifts and downshifts (sometimes no shifts), then the gear lights start flashing. I was thinking that since it shifts fine when cold, the transmission probably is not totally shot, but not sure where to start on fixing the problem. Could it be as simple as low/burnt fluid? Engine is throwing codes P0446, 1124, and one for an oxygen sensor, and I know what these are but not thinking this is related to these transmission symptoms. Anyone know what this could be?
I really appreciate everyone's input on this. Mechanic has informed me it is indeed IMS failure and I have to rebuild or replace, trying to sort out the best option now. I am inclined to sell the thing for parts, or order the Jake Raby videos when they come out and tinker with it myself as time permits. I can't see putting $7-8K for a used engine in a car maybe worth $12K on a good day, especially knowing the next engine may do the same thing. If anyone wants to buy a 1999 with a blown engine, knows a good rebuilder that won't break the bank, or has any other ideas for a half way cost effective way to get this thing back on the road, I'd be grateful.
Not sure where leak was coming from, took it straight to mechanic when I found it, and car was still running but not so well. Mechanic says AOS then calls me an hour later and says RMS. I didn't think an RMS would cause this amount of leakage. There were puddles, I put a newspaper under the car and it was totally saturated an hour later. So now, I am a little concerned about the mechanic, I though RMS failures caused slow leaks, this was not a slow leak. I am depressed. If anyone has been through this can can share their experience, I'd appreciate it more than you can imagine.
1999 Boxster, 105K miles. After doing a little more reading on a problem I posted about yesterday, I am thinking the amount of oil coming out of the car is consistent with an IMS failure. So, once this happens, is the engine always toast? Am I for certain looking at a new engine or complete rebuild? Is there any other problem that could cause massive amounts of oil to be coming out of the car?
1999 Boxster with 105K miles is getting these codes, a little white smoke mostly coming out of rear passenger wheel well, and a pretty substantial oil leak below the car. At least I think it is oil leaking, it's black. Car is running pretty jumpy. Is this an AOS problem? Any ideas? Thanks, Dave
Left my top open in a terrential downpour (again). Car got soaked, and when seats dried they are now all rough and hard. I have tried Lexol and the other common leather conditioners but it does not help much if at all. Is there a trick to getting these things back soft, or am I stuck buying new seats or covers? If so, what is the most economical way to replace? Thanks for any input.
My gear shift periodically sticks in park, but seems to be doing it more frequently now. When this happens, I can always hold the button down firmly and shake the gear shift pretty hard and eventally it will shift, but this is getting to be a bit of a pain. Anyone had this problem and know how to fix it?
awesome thanks! I thought I might have screwed something up with all this DIY. Really appreciate the info. Ah... my bad, there is a comfort close connection from the immobilizer to the windows (and top) circuits. That could be disabling the windows. Looks like getting your immobilizer sorted should straighten things out.
My control unit was recently fried by rain, the car will still start but the locks don't work. The windows don't work either, at all. Is this related to the fried immobilizer or it this likely something I screwed up when replacing the radio and adding rear speakers, or replacing the parking brake sensor? (The parking brake sensor failure is what caused this whole mess in the first place with the top stuck down in a three day rainstorm). I disconnected the window switches at one point and after I reconnected them they do not work, but I am not sure exactly when the problem started or if it is actually related to discinnecting the switches. Any ideas on where to star with this or should I just wait and see if programming the new immobilizer solves it? Thanks, Dave
Update - I dried the thing out and the car starts fine now even though the board looks fried. However, the lock button does nothing and the hood and trunk release can't be pulled as if the car was locked. Does anyone know if there is an override for this or a way to get the hood and trunk open before I get this board replaced?
I have it out, but it does not look so good, was damp and smells fried, has places on the board that look fried. I guess I need to replace it, will look for a thread on that. Thanks for everyone's help. - Dave
Also, the battery is basically new, less than a month old. Feel under the drivers seat - is it wet? How old is your car battery? All Porsche radios work without the key - that is a "feature" of German cars.