gavins

The speakers inside the carpeted subwoofer box simply unscrew. The fun bit is opening up the box itself, which is in two halves, and held together i swear with about 1,000 screws around the edge! you will need a torx screwdriver with a long shank and lots of patience! Once you open up the subwoofer box its easy to see if there's anything inside that's rattling around. But before you ipen up the subwoofer box, check to see if the trim bezels around the speaker vent outlets are loose. Mine were.

Hi Rick, if you are talking about the two rear side=panel speakers, I simply threaded speaker cable through the space between the rear side panel and the base of the rear shelp (ie the lower section, on which the rear subwoofer box sits). If you pop out the rear side panel speakers (use a credit card around the edge of the cover) and then use a torx to unscrew the speaker mounting from the cutout, you can reach inside and grab the speaker cable that you are feeding into the space. Hope this all makes sense - its difficult to explain in words...easy when you see how! BTW, I eventually fitted a small Blaupunkt amplifier inside the sub woofer box instead of the stock Bose unit, which i couldnt figure out how to connect. I have posted a separate thread on how I did all of this and i works really well.

To be perfectly frank, 160 KpH / 100 MpH isn't all that fast on a highway, and I think losing your license for three months is excessive. I often find myself at those speeds, and there is a stretch of highway on my way to work where I do 220 KpH every day. Even that doesn't feel excessively fast, until some dipstick pulls out in front without looking in his mirror...and then you realise just how slow everyone else is going.

I have a 2006 C2, and I have the famous oil leak at the RMS (front of engine between engine and gearbox). The car is still under warranty and the dealer will fix it at no charge. But here's the thing: I live in Bahrain, not Stuttgart. They are delightful people but, having personally witnessed one of the Bahrain Porsche dealer "expert" drivers back a brand new 997 into a hydraulic lift, I am less than 100% confident of their ability to do the job, remember to put all the parts back in the correct order, and not screw something up that is going to cause even more problems down the line. So the question is this: If I decide not to get them to fix the RMS leak will it do any damage (apart from needing half a quart of oil occasionally). And if I let them go ahead, what are the chances of them screwing up? Is this a difficult job requiring patience, concentration and expertise, or is it something that you would trust to a muppet?

C1 S has basically the same horsepower as a C2 non-S. Engine in the C2 is totally re-designed. But if you go non-S you don't get the big brakes, PASM, 19" wheels etc as standard. Personally I would go with the C2 non-S, assuming both have the same options pack (Bose, Sat Nav, Telephone are the main ones you will want).

Could someone please help in advising how to use the stock Bose subwoofer amplifier (100WSR) that is fitted inside the 997 rear shelf subwoofer box WITHOUT the complete Bose sound system. In other words i want to hook the Bose subwoofer amp up to existing speaker outputs. The terminals on the Bose subwoofer amp are: GND (connected to the same pin as the other GND) SWB+ IN+2 (empty) IN+1 IN-1 VCC (connected to the same pin as the other VCC) SPKR+ (goes to subwoofer 1+) SPKR- (goes to subwoofer 1-) GND (connected to the same pin as the other GND) VCC (connected to the same pin as the other VCC) SPKR+ (goes to subwoofer 2+) SPKR- (goes to subwoofer 2-) So, there are 12 pins on the subwoofer amp, one of which is not connected. Of the 11 pins, 2 are connected to another 2. And four go to the two loudspeakers. This makes a total of 5 connectors on the cable that plugs into the car's sound system. These 5 are GND, SWB+, IN+1, IN-2, and VCC. I would gues that two are power, one is right, one is left, and one is sound common. Is this right and, if so, which is which?

Hard to believe that that little built-in BOSE amp is powerful enough to drive the subs, and also I have no idea which of the seven input wires to use if i do try to use the little built-in BOSE amp. But the good news is that there is more than enough space in the subwoofer box to fit a Blaupunkt compact subwoofer, although I have no idea what impedance the BOSE subwoofer speakers are.

I have a 2006 C2 with the standard (i.e. NOT the BOSE) sound system. I have found the sound system to be inadequate and a couple of months ago fitted a pair of Blaupunkt THB210a powered subwoofers behind the rear seats, in the space where the Bose subwoofer box (if fitted) goes. The sound signals are taken off the rear speakers, and I tapped into the high amperage power circuit driving the electric sunroof. This has worked VERY well indeed and I recommend this solution to anyone looking for an easy and cheap (US$250) sound upgrade. However, the setup is very visible through the rear window and not particularly neat-looking and I have been looking to buy a used BOSE rear subwoofer box (part 997.645.564.00), as fitted to the 997 with the Bose sound system. Last week I finally located and bought one from a salvage yard. I intend to fit this behind the rear seats and hook it up to an external subwoofer amplifier. I was expecting a simple hookup to left and right rear speakers (as I currently do with the Blaupunkt powered subwoofers) but the Bose subwoofer box has 7 (seven) wires on the connector block. These are blue, red, white/black, brown, black/red, yellow and brown/yellow. This is NOT what i was expecting. Does anyone have any idea what all these connections are for? I have opened up the subwoofer box (easy as there are 24 torx bolts holding the cover on) and found inside a small electrical unit resembling a crossover. It has a connector with 11 cables, 7 of which come from the external connector block, plus two to each of the two internal subwoofer speaker units. I attach several photgraphs showing the external connector block, the internal crossover (?) unit, the speakers and the general layout. As mentioned, the plan is to hook the subwoofer assembly up to an external subwoofer amplifier. I guess i can bypass the internal crossover, if this is indeed what it is, but it would be helpful if i knew exactly what the function of the unit is. I doubt it is an amplifier as it is quite small, measuring about four inches by four inches by two inches. Any help, advice gratefully received!

My 2006 C2 came with the bi-xenon headlamp setup. This has a xenon upper bulb sitting behing a projector lens and an electronic shutter that re-directs the xenon beam when you switch between lo and hi. The headlamp unit also has a normal halogen bulb sitting below the projector lens, and surrounded by a large reflector. The halogen bulb comes on when you select hi beam. The other day I saw a 997 with headlamps that had TWO projector lenses, one upper and one lower. The difference was very clear to see as, instead of the large reflector housing the normal lower halogen bulb, there was a second projector lens in its place, making a total of two projector lenses. I did not take a photograph but does anyone know what this setup is? Just to be clear, the normal 997 xenon setup has a xenon upper bulb sitting behind a projector lens, and a halogen lower bulb sitting in a large reflector. The setup I saw had TWO projector lenses. If I see it again i will post a photograph but i am curious to know if this is a model year change or some other option.

I know that this doesn't directly answer your question but I have very sucessfully installed a pair of powered active subwoofers (Blaupunkt TH 120) in the space behind the rear seats (ie where the Bose subwoofer normally sits) of my 997. The signal is taken straight off each of the two rear speakers and fed, via filters, into the LO RCA inputs of the active subwoofers. Very clean simple install and works perfectly. I am taking the power supply to the active subwoofers off the fuse box circuit to the sunroof.

I have a 2006 C2 with the standard sound package (i.e. NOT the Bose setup). I have bought a pair of Blaupunkt THb210A self-powered subwoofers and mounted them on the rear shelf immediately behind the rear seatbacks (they actually fit perfectly, by the way). Professionally installed with power taken off a high amerage circuit (the one that powers the sunroof) and connected in parallel via the high-level inputs to each of the rear speakers. System powers up fine, but there is NO sound from the subwoofers. Professional installer thinks that it is because there is a crossover in the Porsche setup that filters out all low-frequency sound going to the rear speakers and, since the subwoofers are hooked up (in parallel) to the rear speakers, the sub woofer is only getting a mid range and high frequency signal. If this is true I can solve the problem by hooking the subwoofers up in parallel to the door-mounted woofers instead of the rear speakers, but wanted to ask if anyone has any thoughts?

I have a 2006 997 C2 with the standard I490 sound system, i.e. NOT the Bose upgrade. I do not have the CD changer, or the NAV or the telephone fitted either. I find the standard sound system inadequate, but I do not want to pay $$ for a Bose retrofit and I do not want to mess with the PCM unit. Local Blaupunkt dealer says that the standard amplifier (part 997.645.331.01) needs to be kept in order for the whole CAN BUS system to work, and proposes instead to hook up a second amplifier in series, using what he said are the 5 pairs of wires coming off the standard amp to feed into the hi-level inputs on a "slave' amp connected in series. Trouble is, it seems that these 5 pairs of wires coming off the standard amp are NOT the speaker wires as, if you disconnect and take the standard amp of the car completely, the sound system still works...albeit without any boost. So we're completely confused here. Is there any way that the standard sound system can be upgraded, or is this just an exercise in futility? Blaupunkt dealer has an alternative idea which is to use an Audiotechnik Dietz CAN BUS Interface for the 997, part number 4016260628201 (about EUR200, US$280) which will allow the standard 997 connector block to connect, via the Audiotechnik Dietz CAN BUS Interface, to a Balupunkt PnP series amplifier, and we get rid of the standard amp altogether....but now we're talking many hundreds of dollars which is more than what I want to spend. Need some help here from someone who knows my car's sound system inside out as i do not want to go ordering obscure german audio parts and end up with a pile of useless junk. Alternatively, I will just put a couple of Blaupunkt THb 200A powered subwoofers on the rear shelf (the THb 210A is too high) and have done with it. Another alternative might just be to fit better speakers in the doors and side panels, although it seems that there is a built-in three-way crossover somewhere to split each of the front channels into tweeter, mid and woofer and I don't know where or what it is and, anyway, can the standard puny 4x25W amp supply enough power to make any difference with better speakers...? Expert help from someone who REALLY knows this car's sound system inside out would really be appreciated as I am on a limited budget here and would rather do nothing than waste hundreds of dollars on something that will not work.

2006 C2 with just 11,000 miles on it. Was basically trying to show off, switched off the PSM and attempted to light up the rear wheels with an energetic getaway. Instead of getting wheelspin i got the revs/clutch balance wrong and got clutch spin (slip actually) and a strong odour of burned clutch. I wont do that again (i suspect the rear weight distribution makes it difficult to light up the rear wheels on takeoff anyway) but did i do any damage to the clutch? Still a slight odour of clutch. I would imagine these clutches are pretty robust but i hope i havent done any permanenet damage to it....BTW I am NOT 18 years old and I don"t drive a hopped-up Camaro with bright red seat belts and, yes, i am pretty embarrassed about posting this thread.

Richard, I have done the chart for my car. According to the manual my gear ratios are 3.91, 2.32, 1.61, 1.28, 1.08 and 0.88 with a 3.44 final drive. I am running 265/40 ZR 18 at the rear, which gives me a rear tyre circumference of 210.24 cm, versus 207.22 cm for the 295/30 ZR 19 rear tyres and 209.10 cm for the 305/30 ZR 19 rear tyres. The maximum downshift RPMs come out a bit different. I am assuming of course that my excel skills haven't produced GIGO (Garbage In Garbage Out) but it's good to have done the analysis. Thanks for the inspiration and I will certainly consider joining. I am one month into 997 ownership and loving every moment.

Richard that is EXACTLY the informtion I have been looking for. If I read the chart correctly, it is telling me that the maximum RPMs for a downshift from 5th is 6,000, from 4th is 5,750, from 3rd is 5,000. I am just wondering whether there is any difference in the numbers you show between the car you show, and my car, which is a 2006 C2 USA spec with standard 18" wheels. Really helpful - thanks again.