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jlucas

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Everything posted by jlucas

  1. I've read various posts on this topic and this tutorial but I'm still not clear on which item to look at first. Current situation is no beep when locked by keyfob and double beep when unlocked. Locking & unlocking from the key cylinder seems to be have normally (one time unlocking set off the alarm but that was not consistent behavior). Opening from the outer passenger handle there is no window drop down. Opening from inner passenger handle there is no window drop down. This is the first time in a year that I've had consistent symptoms, previously it would happen sporadically but when I sit down to try different combinations it would start working again preventing me from further diagnosing. Durametric scan attached Ideas?
  2. So I removed the part on my passenger seat and measured no difference in seat travel. It did not appear that the tab on this part was actually contacting anything in the seat rail mechanism. I even looked into the seat rail with a scope and did not find what was limiting travel. I ran out of time to investigate further.
  3. I got confirmation on another forum that people have done this. I'll take some pictures when I do it.
  4. While I had my seats out and apart for refinishing, I noted the rail stop (996 521 603 00) at the back of rail (#17 in the picture below). It looked to me that there was more travel available. So I looked in the part listing and evidently this part is only applied on option M553 cars which is USA & Canada destination cars. Anyone in the USA removed them? does the bolt become the next stopping point? Looks like you'd gain about an inch of travel. Probably would be appreciated by a lot of passengers. #16 (986 521 643 00) would probably be needed instead for proper load distribution in the event of a crash
  5. New part does not rotate at the coupler so it ended up being a non issue. Clip faces down and complete level. You can see the dowel at the roughly 11 oclock position.
  6. I'm replacing this actuator because it's throwing a code. Looks like the current part number is 996.105.303.06 (old one was a .02). Once it was removed from the car and as I was wiping the off the oil that was coming out , I realized the coupler was turning relative to the body of the actuator. Not sure if it's supposed or not (as I have yet to get the replacement actuator) but now I've inadvertently lost my reference for re-installation orientation. There is this notch to indicate position. I think it goes at the 12 o'clock position and I'm just looking for confirmation. Anyone have that detail?
  7. These were seats that only had power for the back angle. The lower cushion lever just pulls straight out, make sure the rod in the middle comes out too or you won't be able to remove the lower cushion. The cushion removal is covered elsewhere (short version: pull the pins in the white clips at the front of the underside of the seat, then unclip) Here's the part I was unsure about. With careful prying with a soft tool, like a plastic trim interior stick, while lightly squeezing the center plastic pivot pin from the back the lever will work itself out. Careful for the metal pin and spring that provides the friction for the mechanism. You can see the pivot pin here: After removal: Pin & spring You can see why I wanted to strip them down for painting. The electrical switch is just held in by the side clips you can't see in the first picture (they are very obvious when you look at it), just pry as little as possible
  8. Maybe a better picture, is show the front lever coming off, any way to take the back lever off?
  9. Search hasn't yielded what I'm looking for. I want to disassembly this panel for painting and looking for some tips before I take the seat out of the car. I'm doing the recliner cover and leather restoration at the same time so that's why the whole seat will be out. Thanks!
  10. Just had my IMS bearing done at Kraftwerks and was really impressed with Jeff, the owner. It's a one man band type of shop so you know exactly who's going to be working on your car. I really appreciated his attention to detail and communication throughout the process. Highly recommended. http://kraftwerks.co/ Located just a few exits north of Columbus on 71.
  11. Thanks, kbrandsma has got me covered!
  12. Looking for keys to remove my CDR220 to do a GT3 console delete kit. Beckers wants $10.99 plus shipping. Does someone want to sell or loan me theirs that they are no longer using? I'm in Delaware, OH Thanks! Jeremy
  13. Are you sure buckle replacement was required or did you just do both wiring & buckle since you were already taking the seat out? TIA!
  14. With proper tires you should have no problem. A hardtop would be nice if you have a plastic window. Prior to this on my S2000 I drove it year round (but glass window with defroster) with Blizzak LM snow tires. I used to get funny looks from the snow plow drivers as I would pass them on the backroads that are my daily commute. The only time ground clearance was an issue when we got 8 inches overnight and the plows hadn't come yet but that was the same for everyone on our street without a truck until the plows came through. WIth the Boxster I don't have to drive it in the winter as I have a beater/mileage mule TDi for that now but there's no reason not to if you don't mind the extra wear and tear on the car.
  15. This is who I had do the 30k service on my BoxS. Came highly recommended. You could arrange to meet him and see if he meets your expectations. Ed Pimm EPR Automotive 7972 McKitrick Rd Plain City, OH 43064 614-873-3401 Ps. You didn't by chance buy that Blue/Grey one that was for sale last week up near Canton/Akron?
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