elsenorfon

This thread has been incredibly informative, a big thank you for everyone involved. Cheers

I also have the B&M and am glad I got it. VERY tight shifting, which is how I like it.

yeah it looks slightly off. how do you go about reseating this? ive pulled and pushed and cant figure it out :(

Just a couple days ago i got an error message saying "failure spoiler control." when i got out i noticed half my spoiler was still up. I can manually lower the whole spoiler, but i can only raise the left side. The right side refuses to move it seems. I checked fuse D7 and it's good. I've pulled the fuse at this point becuase it's embarrassing going down the highway in my beautiful car with half a spoiler lol. But now of course the rear trunk wont open without that fuse. Any ideas as to what's causing this and if it's fixable? I'm bummed :( I'm on the highway every day going over 75.. Many thanks for any help

The problem didn't START with the flash, it STOPPED with the softronic tuned flash. I was worried that it was only masking the problem though. Great idea with the butane! thank you very much for the help

P1115 : "Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit" and P0134 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1 The trick is I'm getting no CEL anymore since flashing my ECU with Softronic update. I'm guessing the tuned version doesn't check o2 sensors or something because this was impossible to get rid of before. So I'm worried I still have an air leak in there that I need to find :(

I have been throwing o2 sensor codes and even after changing the o2 sensor twice (passenger side pre cat FYI) I was still getting the error codes. From the research I've tried to do this could be indicative of an air leak in the intake lines. I have no idea how to check for leaks. It makes a kind of "woosh" sound when I rev the engine and the engine bay is open, but that's all I know. Any advice on this? I have changed the throttle body (techno torque) so maybe the seal isn't as good now? Thank you in advance, Kyle

Fuse E6 took care of it, you guys are gods among men :) thank you

according to my fuse diagram E6 is telephone..but there's no fuse in that slot. am I reading this wrong somehow, or is E6 really telephone? that seems unhelpful lol

I just took my 2002 Boxster S out for the summer after putting it up since September. It worked fine when I put it up..but now when I try to fill my gas tank it gets about .4 gallons and then spits out. And I mean literally spits. It bubbles and spits, like there's some kind of pressure pushing it back out. Air pressure it seems. According to my ticker I can drive 0 miles before I run out of gas so I need to figure this out NOW! :( this is very frustrating, please please please help if you have any idea. I saw on the FAQ about the filler flap problem, but this seems different since I get more than .1 gallons in and because of the air pressure pushing it back out, but maybe I'm wrong. Many thanks in advance

Hi, so this headers are without cats correct? Did you installed both 02 sensors? Did you get a CEL? The front cats are taken out. I moved both o2 sensors downstream after the 2nd cats. CEL is all set once you move them.

$799 for the headers, they're not on eBay, I ordered directly through turbowerx

FIXED! Fuse C3 was the culprit. Agh that was so easy I'm pissed :) Thank you everybody for the help though!

Anybody live in the Framingham/Boston area?? I really need help with this badly and obviously would drive to you. Please?

The only reason I don't think fuse is because the windows still *work* when opening the doors, but i'll check them in case. What kind of diagnostic tool do I need and where would I get it? I'm very new to Porsche. Thank you!

happy to help. i'd definitely give them a call and see what they can do. best luck

I have no idea how often they offer free shipping, but the $30 in shipping shouldnt be a deal breaker IMO. If you're really dead set on it, the owner or TurboWerx is really cool (or was to me) so if you just mention that you were in contact with him while they were offering free shipping he'll honor it. I didn't even know about the free shipping when I ordered, I just mentioned that I had sent him an email a couple weeks ago and HE was the one who mentioned the free shipping (because he thought we'd talked about it) and honored it even though it was an old promotion. Worth a try :)

I'm wondering what part of the installation is part of it, because that seems like the obvious answer. I removed the Pioneer and the problem did not go away, is there a related fuse I could have blown somewhere even though the battery was disconnected when I did it? (not the one under the seat)

I just installed a Pioneer P6000 dvd player in my car and after doing so can no longer lock my doors or use my power windows. When pressing the "lock" button on my dash bezel nothing happens. Also when using my keyfob (new battery) it does not lock the doors. The power windows buttons on the center console doesn't move my windows. But when I open the door (both passenger and driver side) the windows move down a 1/4 inch to clear the softtop, and go up after closing. So the windows *do* work. Also when opening or closing the soft top, the windows do NOT go down/up. I am forced to open both doors to get the top up. The interior lights at the footwell no longer work either. I put tape over the sensor for the head unit, that didn't help. I have tried re-disconnecting the battery. No help. I pulled my driver seat and checked the fuze in the alarm module. It's not blown. I really dont know what else to do. I really need to be able to lock my car (and it would be nice to be able to lower and raise my windows. Thank you for any help

Great review I had the same problem on mine...they didn't fit like an OEM so I had to adjust them. Now all that remains is to splice a wire so that the rear fog lights come on when u hit the break. The LEDs are not that bright (shouldn't blind anymore) if anything these LED rear fogs should make it more safe by letting people see you breaking earlier. that's an interesting idea. i didn't realize there was a rear fog, any idea which wire i need to splice to hit it? and is it red or am i blinding people with reverse lights when doing that?? :P

sorry my last car was american and had a PCM (powertrain control module) so yes I mean DME. lucky for me i dont have smog tests, so would this just be a softronic reprogramming or how would this be done? thank you!

Now that I've put on headers that bypass the front cats I'm getting the CEL. It wasn't on before so it seems likely that it's the o2 sensors. I tried to be smart and figured it was a circuit that needed completing so I cut the 4 wires and connected the two white ones (left the gray and black ones disconnected). This didn't work :) It seems there must be some way to manipulate these wires to send the proper signal to the PCM, any ideas from electrical engineers out there? I'm really not qualified to extend the wires and drill a bung past the 2nd set of cats for the o2 sensors to go. Not a bit. Any thoughts are appreciated. Many thanks.

Stock pics

Pics

Let me start by saying that I just got my Boxster S in February and just recently found this site. In just a few weeks I found so much invaluable and helpful information here at renntech, and also at babblers, so I'm trying to give a little back. It's not much, but those in the market for headers should probably take the time to read this since it's hard to find out REAL information on these products. I also want to be very clear that I have nothing to do with the manufacturer or seller and have no vested interest. These are just my thoughts, and although I do not have any Porsche experience, I do have a lot of tuning experience so I'm pretty familiar with what is and is not a quality product. After putting the car in the air and looking at the bottom of the engine I immediately found the need to change from the stock headers. I do not at all like their design as they appear very very restrictive. I don't have a ton of money and somebody on Babblers.org had suggested the Turbowerx headers so I gave them a shot. Install I will say very plainly that headers are MUCH easier to install than a muffler is on this car. I was actually quite surprised how easy it was to take off the old header and put the new one on. I used PB blaster on all the bolts and let them sit for ~1 hour before removing the old bolts and not a single one gave me a hard time. I did not expect that at alllllll. :) To note, the Turbowerx headers have 2 bolts that are very tricky to tighten with a ratchet and likely will need a box wrench to tighten down all the way. The plastic shield on the passenger side of the car I loosened up to help get to them. That was a simple removal of 2 screws and 2 nuts. Quality All I have to way is "wow." I have seen a number of headers in my day and none are the quality of these! I spoke with the company and the guy said he does them himself, although he outsources the flanges, he does all the welds and developed the tubes himself. Impressive and made in America! Woohoo! The steel is beautiful, the welds are perfect and clean, and the flanges are very thick (1/2"!!). The F1 merge collectors are the perfect choice here also in my opinion. Bravo all around. Performance and Sound First a quick note on sound. The cats are deleted (Yay CEL!) and the pipes are thicker. This by itself definitely made the car sound throatier and a little more imposing. After also putting on an aftermarket muffler it's very loud, but regardless of muffler this WILL make it louder by a noticeable amount, although not too much. As for performance, I do not have access to a dyno so I cannot give a perfect answer here. The website shows a dyno graph that illustrates a 22hp/18tq increase for the 3.2L and even more for the 2.7L. The seat of my pants says: "I believe it." The car really starts pulling anywhere over 3k rpm much more than before, and once it hits 5k...it's a crazy difference. Wow. The only other modification I had was a K&N filter, desnorkled, and now also a performance muffler (but the muffler didn't make a difference really). Other than when I put a turbo on my NA car years ago, this is simply the best single-mod performance difference I have yet encountered-it's THAT good. Enough said. Final Thoughts I have absolutely nothing bad to say about these headers. They're CHEAP, or relatively though. They cost me $799 and I bought them during a free shipping promotion. Sweet! For that price I in no way expected such a beautiful piece or such a dramatic increase in performance. Best bang for your buck I've seen in my time. I know the pics aren't great but they were taken with my Blackberry so my apologies, I tried! Please feel free to ask me any questions if I left anything else out.