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Unfortunately my rear trunk won't open on my way home today so I tried opening it through the emergency cable. The way I access it is through the rear liner (common referred approach) after taking the wheel off. I was able to get to it by fishing it out using a clothing hanger. I tried pulling the cable (from the loop end) and got nothing, no sound, and the cable felt like it was just attaching to a wall -- nothing gave way. How hard do am I expected to pull the cable? I fell short of pulling with too much force. Has anyone have experience with pull the cable from the rear liner? Is the angle the problem? (I pulled from the top of the liner where I had some opening). Side question: When reaching for the cable I cannot see the loop end so I use the hanger to pull at the middle of the cable and with some force the loop end loosen out. What is normally there to keep that loop end in place?
Don't think it is the transmission oil since the leaked substance is not dark or thick. I was hoping the description of the substance (clear/thin/oily) and the area of the leak could narrow it down to a few candidates. Will do a round of fluid inspection this weekend.
I was working on my S03 today and noticed a leak at the engine area on the passenger side. Found a few drops on the ground, the substance seems clear but oily texture. I have attached a photo of the area that I believe to be the source or near the source of the leak. The area is blacken by accumulated dirt sticking on. Anyone got some idea of what the problem might be?
Doing some research on DIY 60K maintenance for my S03, and one thing I want to confirm is whether there is a need for changing the fuel filter? The maintenance book does not indicate anything about this filter and some prior forum topic indicated that this filter has been integrated with the fuel pump (not sure what that would mean...)
Just an update to wrap this up. Push the top back into place and it is functioning as normal -- though I have to re-calibrate the clock spring. The cause is probably because I forgot to take off one of the cable before pulling the wheel off. Good thing is that the coil and connectors are not damaged. The horn still works and no airbag light-up afterwards.
One thing I did different than what is shown in the instructions (http://www.whiteson....c/obc.stalk.pdf) was that my steer wheel is not in neutral when I pull it out. I had it turns to the 90 degrees so that I have more room to use the Torx driver to unscrew the airbag. I could not take it back to neutral because the steering wheel locks up if I turn without powering up the car. Is this non-neutral the cause or just take I pulled too hard?
See attached photo. The instructions I have with removing steer wheel is to tape the clock spring to avoid it rotating......I now know why.
Just to be more clear on what I mean by loosen, the top cover of the clock spring came off. Still figuring out how to put it back and whether it is reusable at this point.
I was trying to get the steering wheel out and it was fitted too tight and I pulled too hard to the point where the airbag spring unit sprang out. Does it mean I will have to replace the whole spring unit?
I have a question concerning whether the brake light warning system is a good indicator of time to change the pads or is it just a conservative measure? Background: I change my pads (first time) recently in anticipation to avoid cutting the wear sensors. The old pad is worn down to the sensor hole so it is quite close to the point where the sensor will be earthed. But I noticed that there is still a lot of pad left (30%?). This leads me to wonder whether the sensor system is too conservative? Would I get much more out of my pads (without compromising brake quality) if I ditch the sensors and monitor the pad level manually?
Embarrassingly it turns out that the ignition switch screws got loose over the several months of use after my replacement. Once I tighten it back up, the car is able to start up again and the airbag message went away.