willos

Definitely got to the right wire and I was pulling from the loop end.

Anyway, took it to the shop and they found that both cables have snapped.

Unfortunately my rear trunk won't open on my way home today so I tried opening it through the emergency cable. The way I access it is through the rear liner (common referred approach) after taking the wheel off. I was able to get to it by fishing it out using a clothing hanger. I tried pulling the cable (from the loop end) and got nothing, no sound, and the cable felt like it was just attaching to a wall -- nothing gave way.

How hard do am I expected to pull the cable? I fell short of pulling with too much force. Has anyone have experience with pull the cable from the rear liner? Is the angle the problem? (I pulled from the top of the liner where I had some opening).

Side question: When reaching for the cable I cannot see the loop end so I use the hanger to pull at the middle of the cable and with some force the loop end loosen out. What is normally there to keep that loop end in place?

Don't think it is the transmission oil since the leaked substance is not dark or thick.

I was hoping the description of the substance (clear/thin/oily) and the area of the leak could narrow it down to a few candidates. Will do a round of fluid inspection this weekend.

Forgot to press the button. Here's the photo.

I don't think it is the engine oil since it is not dark in color. Could it be the coolant?

I was working on my S03 today and noticed a leak at the engine area on the passenger side. Found a few drops on the ground, the substance seems clear but oily texture.

I have attached a photo of the area that I believe to be the source or near the source of the leak. The area is blacken by accumulated dirt sticking on.

Anyone got some idea of what the problem might be?

Thanks. Looks like I do not have to change the filter =)

Doing some research on DIY 60K maintenance for my S03, and one thing I want to confirm is whether there is a need for changing the fuel filter? The maintenance book does not indicate anything about this filter and some prior forum topic indicated that this filter has been integrated with the fuel pump (not sure what that would mean...)

Just an update to wrap this up. Push the top back into place and it is functioning as normal -- though I have to re-calibrate the clock spring.

The cause is probably because I forgot to take off one of the cable before pulling the wheel off. Good thing is that the coil and connectors are not damaged. The horn still works and no airbag light-up afterwards.

One thing I did different than what is shown in the instructions (http://www.whiteson....c/obc.stalk.pdf) was that my steer wheel is not in neutral when I pull it out.

I had it turns to the 90 degrees so that I have more room to use the Torx driver to unscrew the airbag. I could not take it back to neutral because the steering wheel locks up if I turn without powering up the car.

Is this non-neutral the cause or just take I pulled too hard?

The photo.....

See attached photo.

The instructions I have with removing steer wheel is to tape the clock spring to avoid it rotating......I now know why.

Just to be more clear on what I mean by loosen, the top cover of the clock spring came off. Still figuring out how to put it back and whether it is reusable at this point.

I was trying to get the steering wheel out and it was fitted too tight and I pulled too hard to the point where the airbag spring unit sprang out. Does it mean I will have to replace the whole spring unit?

I have a question concerning whether the brake light warning system is a good indicator of time to change the pads or is it just a conservative measure?

Background: I change my pads (first time) recently in anticipation to avoid cutting the wear sensors. The old pad is worn down to the sensor hole so it is quite close to the point where the sensor will be earthed. But I noticed that there is still a lot of pad left (30%?). This leads me to wonder whether the sensor system is too conservative? Would I get much more out of my pads (without compromising brake quality) if I ditch the sensors and monitor the pad level manually?

Embarrassingly it turns out that the ignition switch screws got loose over the several months of use after my replacement. Once I tighten it back up, the car is able to start up again and the airbag message went away.

Should add that I changed my ignition switch 2 months ago. Never had a problem starting up my car before this.

Something strange happened to my Boxster (S 2003) today. After a 30 miles drive I parked my car at a shopping mall and when I came back, the car wouldn't start anymore.

There is no ignition sound at all. After a few seconds, I got a airbag failure message on my OBC. Note that there is NO airbag warning light, just the OBC message. I don't have diagnostic tool to read the error code....

I tried a few things:

* Start car using a battery recharger device -- same result. Everything on the car powers up fine include my soft top so should not be a battery issue.

* Start my car using another remote key -- same result. Does not seem like a remote/immobilizer related issue

* Disconnect the car battery for 15 minutes -- same result. Problem persists.

* Clutch depressed several times or at different depressed positions

Some major work on my car that might me relevant:

* I had to repaint the passenger side door over a year -- could some issue with this door airbag creep up on me after over a year?

* I changed my clutch half a year ago. This is may affect more of the cut-off switch but not related to the airbag message...

Could an issue with airbag actually stop my car from starting up? I read articles where the airbag message or warning light only serve as an alert and does impact other functions of the car.

Will

I broke the turn signal switch a while ago and I want to see if it is possible to fix the signal switch without having to replace the whole combination assembly?

Exploring the option of buying a used combination assembly, take the signal switch component and replace it on my combination assembly. Has anyone done someone similar before?

My glove box lock handle broke off recently (S03). Does anyone know the part # for the handle?

Thanks for the responses. My car has the OBC/cruise already so I won't get any extra from the replacement.

Found a guide with photos on the OBC hack:

http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/obc/obc.stalk.pdf

Some prep questions:

Does anyone know the size of the socket for the steer wheel nut? Would a T27 torx work in place of T30?

Where is a good place to source the 4 stalk assembly?

Did some research, looks like the stalk (lever) component is broken so will have replace the whole assembly (combination swtich). This Porsche component feels fragile for a heavily used function.

Now I am looking for a DIY guide for replacing the unit on 986 2003 S.

I signal for left turn while turning my steering right. I felt some bad resistance as I push the lever down and an abnormal click sound. After the turn, the lever does not neutralize (does not automatically turn off). On top of that, the right turn position does not stick and just comes back down. Got back home and had a look at the lever and found a small piece of plastic loose around the area on top of the lever.

Has anyone had this problem before? Any pointers to DIY fix?

Any help would be appreciated =)

(986 2003 S)