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Virzn
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About Virzn
- Birthday 05/31/1976
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Hey Guys, It has been already a couple months now that I hear always a clatter from the rear when driving over a bumper or even small potholes. I searched for the issue and realized that I can shake slightly up and down the rear vinyl/rubber Bumper-Pads (left and right next to the license plate) and withit the metal frame (don't know how that piece might be called) where these bumper pads are fixed with and it causes exact the clatter I’m struggling with. Do some of you know this issue? Could you please give me some advice on how to fix it? I don’t want to remove the whole rear bumper if it’s not necessary but I also can't see how to fix it otherwise because it must be loosen somewhere behind the heatshields and so on. Thanks in advance for your help, it’s much appreciated! Virzn
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Hi, I don't recall if there was a spring especially for the door handle but it's mainly hold from the cable to open the door. That cable is hold in place by a small plastic frame with 2 little pins - maybe these pins are broken? You will not need any special tool just do a search on the forum for an audio upgrade that shows how replace the door panel - it's really simple. Greetings Virzn
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The PIV164 are 6.5". Because of the fitting of the sheets into the door frame there is no room for bigger sizes. The added picture shows the how I measured the sheets. I used a $6 tool from Lowe's that is used to measure edges during lamination etc. but that works great for the door installation too. Maybe I'll do a quick DIY guide (would be my first one ever, but this forum here is it worth!)
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Hi, I just finished today the small sound upgrade on my '03 buddy. I finally decided for MB Quart PIV210 for the dash and PIV164 for the doors. The rear speaker kit has still the same speaker, I'll keep it as it is. The sound is powered by Alpine's PDX-5. To fit the speaker to the door I also created board's and did the whole installation based on Jinster's and Andy_M's guides (these both are perfect!!!). Except the doorplate - in Germany it's build with 3 single sheets to get more stability. I took some pictures of it. After installing everything I spent another hour to adjusting all gain's and crossover's at my garage and was fine with the output - but let's see how it work's in the real life. I cruised with top down 50,60,70 m/h and to tell you the truth - the bass is outside the same as before, like none. However, now it's done and I take it as it is. Here are now some pictures of the doorplates. The first one comes behind the doorframe, the second sheet in the middle of the frame and the last sheet sits on top. Each of them are fixed together with screws. I used Dynamat Ultimate for the finish. Cheers :beer: Virzn
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Hi @all, After summarizing all the different thoughts and recommendations I still can’t decide between the following setups and hope you guys can help me ones more! I’m using a Pioneer DEH-P6000UB as HU and replaced already the CDR23 and Becker amp. What I expect is a crystal clear sound with a crisp good bass. My music ranges from electro over independent to house. Dash – MB Quart PVI 210 2-way component (I bought already) Doors – MB Quart PVI 164 Woofer @4ohm 70wRMS (to get the same brand for the stereo at all with high quality?) or Kicker CompVT 08CVT654 Subwoofer @4ohm 50 – 150wRMS (seems to be perfect driver but I didn’t saw any proper review yet) Amp – MB Quart PAB 5400 4x55wRMS + 1x200wRMS or Alpine PDX-5 @4ohm 4x75wRMS + 1x300wRMS or is maybe a Alpine MRP-F300 4x50wRMS already enough to power it all? I’m concerned about the power of the amp because I had already installed Pioneers GM-5300T @4ohm 2x125wRMS to power the factory door speaker and realized that it has too much power for the alternator (please don’t ask me how that can be but according to the body shop the alternator and battery are good and I’m not that expert). However, the output of that combination wasn’t even worth it, so I put it out. Thanks and cheers! Virzn
