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Everything posted by scottyb

  1. Anyone know of a step by step guide of how to replace the clutch on a 996? Preferably with pictures? I've been searching the web and can't find anything. In my head it's quite straightforward but I just want to double check before I dive in. I'm also planning on replacing the RMS and have found this helpful guide, but it doesn't cover much on the actual pressure plate and throw out bearing replacement or torques for any of the clutch related parts. http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php Thanks, Scott
  2. wwest, instead of spouting "FACTS" in CAPITAL LETTERS, it would be good education for other people (and yourself) to have some references and research to back up your OPINIONS, before you start confusing people. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+do+fog+lights+work%3F Most articles say that some people find fog lights helpful and some do not, so don't take any one person's opinion as gold. Real fog lights project light forward and down onto the road, but they have a horizontal cut off at the top that prevents light from pointing up. It is very important that they be aimed correctly so that light does not point up! Some cars come with "driving lights" that don't have as much of a horizontal cut off so they might aim light upwards, which won't help in fog. The idea is that fog lights help prevent glare from blinding you because the light does not bounce off the fog and directly back in your face. This is because they are mounted low and aimed low. High beams don't work in fog because more light is aimed up higher than low beams, so there is a lot of glare from light bouncing off the fog particles and back in your face. Visibility has a lot to do with the angle of reflected light off the fog. Some say fog lights are located low to "cut under" the fog as well, since some fog sits above the road a foot or two. Again, these are mostly opinions from other people's experiences, your experience will differ depending on your car, type of fog lights, their aiming, and the type of fog you drive in. There is no universal rule of thumb.
  3. Thanks for the help guys. I'm a little calmer now. The coil pack is probably it. I decided to leave it at the dealer yesterday because there were a couple other things that I wanted them to check with their computer. They called today and said it was a #4 cylinder misfire code. Not sure exactly what number yet, but I'll find out when I pick it up tomorrow. It's due to have the spark plugs replaced anyways, so I'll check out the coil packs and replace those at the same time. I thought of the MAF at first too since I had just done the EVO intake, but then realizing that it was only one cylinder having the problem the MAF didn't make sense, but thanks for the quick response wross. I'll be resting a little easier tonight, thanks again.
  4. 2002 C2 cab 6spd, 62k miles History: I bought the car back in December and it ran fine for a couple months. I installed an EVO intake and a few weeks later it started to run a little rougher than I thought it used to, but I thought maybe this was just more sound from the intake that I wasn't used to yet. Car got hit in a parking lot a couple weeks later and just spent 2 weeks at the local P dealer$hip getting fixed. Pretty minor damage to the rear bumper and engine cover, not enough to cause this problem. Problem: I picked up the car today and it was raining. Leaving the first few stoplights I noticed that there was a slipping or hesitating going on in the drivetrain but couldn't place where it was coming from. I gave it some more gas and it was definitely coming from the engine. Under partial throttle it acted pretty normal but under heavier acceleration it was jerking and hesitating slightly, like there was one cylinder misfiring. Then the check engine light came on. :huh: I pulled off the road and listened to the exhaust note at idle. It sounds like the left exhaust (right cylinder bank) is rough at idle but the other side is smooth. I could definitely feel some heavy vibration and wavering of the idle when I pulled it off the road. Since I was not far from the dealer$hip I took it back and am going to have them do a diagnosis on it tomorrow. It got better and smoother as I put more miles on it back to the dealership. But right now I'm freaking out about all the possibilities of what this could be. My worst fear is loss of compression :o or something just as expensive. Best case would be a bad ignition coil or clogged injector. Any other ideas? Why would it act pretty normal under light throttle and get significantly worse under medium throttle? I'm trying to get some answers so I can calm down a bit before I go to bed. Obviously the dealer will tell me something tomorrow, but any educated guesses tonight would ease my anxiety a bit. Thanks for the help in advance, Scott
  5. The main harness already comes through the body on the right rear side. Ok, thanks Loren.
  6. I'm considering doing this as well. Is there anything that makes the right side more preferrable than the left or doesn't it matter?
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