JBW

Looking to choose R-SPEC tyres for my GT3.

Only doing club level track days, not full circuit racing or Targa rallies.

Will use my R-specs on a dedicated set of BBS rims, leaving road tires on my standard rims.

Some say the Yokohama A050 is the ultimate and obviously its top dollar.

What do people think is the best “bang for your bucks” value option? including from the following:

-Yokohama AD08 or V105

-Dunlop DZ03G

-Hankook z221

-Kumho V70a

-Toyo R888

Appreciated and regards to all

ps - re fitting "Cup Car" style carbon doors - vs OEM steel doors

- the weight saving apparently is huge - 40 odd pounds per door ?!

I have recently had a relatively major track "off" - so looking for many replacement body parts.

- no insurance cover for the damage of course :(

Bumper covers, doors, fenders,bonnet, engine lid, wing etc

Am interested in lightweight fibreglass (FRP) or carbon panels as substitutes for OEM parts

- my car is used on the race-track a lot.

Understand Carbon is more expensive - but lighter.

But FRP easier to do minor repair work on from a small bump?

1 - Thoughts on OEM vs FRP vs Carbon?

OEM parts fit well, are good for re-sale etc - but ARE also expensive!

2 - Recommended non-OEM body parts suppliers?

- MA Shaw in USA

- xtrememotorcars in USA

- Revosport in HK

- others?

3 - Fitting "Cup Car" style carbon doors to a car that is still used on the road - seems hard work.

- Issues with locking/security, handles, mirrors, inner parts - is it just too hard/expensive &/or not practical?

many thanks

JB

Need a new set of FRONT BRAKE ROTORS – for my 996 Mk II 2004 GT3 (ie with the larger 6 pot calipers)

Have been getting 6 moths use only from the OEM Sebro’s.

Cracking from the very outside ventilation holes close to edge of rotors, plus cracks between the holes.

I’m typically only doing short sprints, time trials etc – or 8 lap races (9/10 minutes) – at most

- So fade, heating not a huge issue

More focussed on getting some good life from the rotors – but still reasonable bite factor etc.

OEM Sebros are DRILLED of course – I hear SLOTTED rotors are better as no issues with the cracks between the ventilation holes

- But these heat up easier? Provide the same grip/bite factor?

Appreciate thoughts..........recommended suppliers?

Cheers

JB

it's not camber that generates tyre heat, it's toe in or toe out.

I'm only going off what the Workshop says to me - we need camber to get heat & push the rears to grip better under load ....especially thru high speed corners

is there a simpler way to do it then? - ie with toe?

many thanks

Hi JWB.... Sorry if I confused the issue. The answer is yes, the 996 GT3RS or 996 GT3 Cup lower rear control arms (not really wishbone shaped) have a bolted split at the inboard end into which you can insert various thicknesses of spacers in order to effectively lengthen the lower arms, thereby getting additional negative camber. I don't have access to PET right now, so I can't confirm the part numbers you list. The spacers are an available Porsche part...at a price. In my own case, I got a machinist to make me a handful of various thicknesses out of aluminum stock. I found (for the front end of my GT3) that the 3/8ths inch just right for the camber I want for the track. These days, there are also other vendors that make split lower control arms that will work. I see then advertised in Pano and Excellence magazines.

thanks Craig - I'm getting there - all clear now! cheers :)

Yes, Cup rear trailing arms are likely the way to go.

Thanks Loren

so the Cup rear trailing arm includes parts 1-8-9 in the diagram?

cheers

pic now attached!

anyone know how to access some replicas of the very cool looking wind deflectors - or down-force vanes (?) - on the new 997 Gen II GT3 RS 4.0l

- on the sides of the front bumper cover - see pic attached

thanks

Hi JWB.... In addition to the above info, adjustable/split lower control arms came stock on the 04-05 GT3RS as well as the Cup car of that period. Interestingly, when I checked a few years ago, the RS lower control are part numbers were the same as the stock, adjustable/split lower control arms on the front of the 04 GT3.

Thanks- bit confused - my car is '04 996 CS

so do I upgrade to RS/Cup arms?

think these are correct: ??

996 331 053 90 leftwishbone assembly

996 331 054 90 Right

cheers

More visual aids. These are installed on a 986S, but the arms are the same. The arrow shows were the shims are installed. And I placed a bunch of shims in the shot so you can see you have a lot of choices in shim width.

awesome advice- thanks

Yes, Cup rear trailing arms are likely the way to go.

fantastic - thanks!

I am looking for some adjustable LHS rear wheel control arms for my Porsche 996 2004 GT3 CS

I am starting circuit racing & we need to get morecamber into the slick tyres to make them work - ie get hot!

Apparently - the standard arms on a road 996 GT3 just won't give enough camber adjustment.

will 996 GT3 Cup (or RS?) arms do the job?

Appreciate any insights/parts available

thanks :)

wow! - awesome advice :) thanks

many thanks Craig

very interested you are positive re wet use

- my workshop is so wary of them - I've found the same - but admittedly mine were old & worn when I bought the GT3

cheers Justin

Hi from OZ fellow GT3 lovers

- really like some un-biased advice re BEST R-SPEC TYRES FOR A GT3

IE - FAST ON A TRACK - BUT STILL USEABLE ON THE ROAD - LEGALLY!

Guessing Treadwear/softness 80 or lower

Michelin Pilot Sports often seen (think they were original fitment on my 2004 car)

- but I hear they are super dangerous in the wet on the road - just no grip.

There seem to be a number of non "big-name" supplier now offering R-specs that are very good value

- price relative to life - eg Hancock

Obviously - 18 inch - 235/295 - perhaps you can run up to 305 on the rear?

thanks

Justin

Hi from OZ fellow GT3 lovers

- really like some un-biased advice re BEST R-SPEC TYRES FOR A GT3

IE - FAST ON A TRACK - BUT STILL USEABLE ON THE ROAD - LEGALLY!

Guessing Treadwear/softness 80 or lower

Michelin Pilot Sports often seen (think they were original fitment on my 2004 car)

- but I hear they are super dangerous in the wet on the road - just no grip.

There seem to be a number of non "big-name" supplier now offering R-specs that are very good value

- price relative to life - eg Hancock

Obviously - 18 inch - 235/295 - perhaps you can run up to 305 on the rear?

thanks

Justin

Mine is a touring with full cage (owner specified) with electric sports seats. I have looked at almost all rhd gt3s available for sale in my vicinity and all of them CS or otherwise seem to have side bags and rear speaker meshes...I never knew the speakers were not connected though!

Yes - speakers in rear not connected! - crazy the grills are still there

- I had to remove CS seats to run the spkr cables

All of the CS's I know DO have side air bags - one of mine went off on track recently

- perhaps an Australian requirement etc

cheers

Hi there

I have an identical 04 GT3 CS - in black - in Perth

This is the car just sold by QSM yes?

FYI - the slots in the top of the bumper are the same as for a GT3 RS - ie the Cup Car bumper

- the car also has some S/S gear rings if I remember?

Other mods worth considering:

- shocks - Bilstein PSS9's

- Star racing exhaust - keep your existing one for road use!

- single mass flywheel

- RS carbon wing

Lots of fast GT3s here in Perth - 996 & 997

The Porsche Club in Oz have booked BATHURST over Easter!

- join us!

cheers

Justin

WOW - that is worth far more than 2cents - thanks a "million" :)

Dealer was ok that the 5spd box that I have - ex 1999 2.5l Boxster would be ok with the 3.2 - both re fitment & ability to handle torque - so will raise your point with them re 6 spd box - very curious indeed.

Has me even more worried now!! - over & above the whole tip to man conversion.

Yes - re the e-gas & throttle issue. We knew this had to be re-worked & has been done successfully already, back to suit the non e-gas version

Have started work on single mass flywheel & race clutch - both to suit the 5 spd box thou.....

Finally - what is your view on the whole tip to manual conversion - the killer seems to be the wiring system

- never being able to get all the components thereof to talk together......engine mngmt, ABS, lights, A/C etc

many thanks

Justin

Well you're going to have a couple of other challenges where wiring is concerned. #1, you're going to have replace the OBC, which i'm assuming you got with the new engine yes? I'm not 100% positive on this or not, but the instrument gauge cluster you have in your car, and that of the cluster found in a boxster S are 2 different versions... I believe it's similar to people who have wanted to swap in the 996 cluster in their boxsters, but I'm not 100% positive. That may be something you need to research more. The new 3.2 L OBC will be configured to a 3.2L's specs. However, because you have bored the engine, you will likely need to find an indy shop capable of "tuning" the engine. The MAF may need to be re-mapped among other things to fully take advantage of the performance specs.

The A/C controls (HVAC) control unit should be plug and play, I don't see there being anything different between these modules.

If the car has not been equpped with the "third radiator" already... you'll definately also want to make sure that gets installed as well. The 3.2S comes stock with 3 radiators, with the third in the middle. Has the car already been fitted with a Boxster S front bumper? Not sure if it's 100% necessary to put the S bumper on, however, that particular bumper has an air opening for cooling of the third radiator. Obviously the lines also have to be run to this radiator.

While we're at it, we might as well discuss the brakes and suspension. The S uses bigger rotors (cross-drilled) on both the fronts and rears, as well as larger calipers and pads among other things. It "may" be easier to purchase the "BREMBO" big brake kit, rather than trying to find Boxster S parts for all of it. You'll get the same if not better performance out of them, and it may cost less in the long run than having to hunt down all the parts. Just my thoughts there.

The suspension... the rear and front sway bars are more robust than a standard boxster, along with the linkage. These can be swapped out, and should help with overall stability. Since neither the S or the standard boxster were really designed for a larger engine like the 3.4 (at least on your year and model you're working on), and considering you're specing the car out for race... I would also suggest a more heavy duty engine mount. There are articles on how to swap in the 996 engine mount, which i believe would suit your purpose. There are some aftermarket ones that are out there, however, I have heard bad reviews on them and them causing more problems rather than fixing them.

As for the ABS, I'm not entirely sure as to the differences, someone else would need to chime in to give you some sound advice there.

One other thing you really should consider... again, with the intent of "racing" in mind. Replace the factory 3.2S AOS (Air Oil Separator) that's on the engine with larger more robust MotorSports AOS. It's a 2 compartmental true AOS as opossed to the factory ones that come on both the non-S and S engines, and it's meant for higher G-Forces (especially on cornering). Last time I checked, Sunset Imports can get the MotorSports AOS (which is a special Porsche order item) for $150, which isn't too bad all things considered.

Hope this helps. cheers

many thanks again :)

apologies for delayed reponse

Really feel we have bitten off more than we can chew here

- really should have started with a mna S & upgraded form there

- not a 97 Tip

- bad advice from Dealer

thks again

J

many thanks - but we are ok there

cheers Justin

If the engine that was being replaced came from a 3.2 Boxster S, the fact that it was bored to a 3.4 specification shouldn't matter... it's still a 3.2 S engine. That would mean that as a plug-and-play solution, you would need to fit it was a standard 6-speed manual transmission (as the boxster S uses a 6-speed manual transmission).

However, since the original car was a 1997 Boxster, I don't believe E-Gas was introduced yet (essentially the fly-by-wire). The engine, would in my guess, already contain the throttle body assembly with e-gas, however, the pedal and electronics in the driver's foot pedal bay would not be present. So the pedal assembly for e-gas would likely also need to be replaced.

The dual-mass flywheel, and clutch assembly with pressure plate would need to also come from a Boxster S, and be replaced, along with the shifting cables and linkages necessary to swap in the 6-spd shifter.

It might just be my opinion, but I don't think hooking up a 5-spd transmission to a Boxster S engine is even a possibility without some serious re-workage of parts. Would be MUCH easier to swap in the e-gas and 6-spd trans. Because the engine is bored to a 3.4 specification, however, it may be necessary to look for a heavier duty flywheel / clutch assembly that can support the torque of the increased size of the engine.

My 2 cents

WOW - that is worth far more than 2cents - thanks a "million" :)

Dealer was ok that the 5spd box that I have - ex 1999 2.5l Boxster would be ok with the 3.2 - both re fitment & ability to handle torque - so will raise your point with them re 6 spd box - very curious indeed.

Has me even more worried now!! - over & above the whole tip to man conversion.

Yes - re the e-gas & throttle issue. We knew this had to be re-worked & has been done successfully already, back to suit the non e-gas version

Have started work on single mass flywheel & race clutch - both to suit the 5 spd box thou.....

Finally - what is your view on the whole tip to manual conversion - the killer seems to be the wiring system

- never being able to get all the components thereof to talk together......engine mngmt, ABS, lights, A/C etc

many thanks

Justin

Don't know anyone who has done a tip to manual conversion. Not saying it cannot be done. You can do almost anything if you are willing to spend the money. People who have put in a 996 3.4 have used the Boxster 5 speed with no problems - it can handle the torque. You don't want a 996 transmission because you will have 6 reverse gears.

Many thanks :)

Yes - it is just a question of dollars.

But the issue is being advised using a TIP to start with was ok, was a fatal error re $$ - yes or no?

- will take forever to rtn to manual trim - ie replace entire wiring harness I am told, etc etc

Yes - I plan to use the Boxster 5 spd box I have

cheers

Hey Sam - I'm in Perth.

Yes - issue getting the back - sticky - side of the velcro to stick to carpet.

In the end - we glued the velcro strip to carpet - I am loathe to drill holes - real issue on re-sale

- residual glue on carpet post any future removal of velcro strip can be cleaned up with turps/trim of carpet etc!

good luck - Justin

- ps Boxster for sale - send me email if interested - it a Motorsport RS car!