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  1. Looking to choose R-SPEC tyres for my GT3. Only doing club level track days, not full circuit racing or Targa rallies. Will use my R-specs on a dedicated set of BBS rims, leaving road tires on my standard rims. Some say the Yokohama A050 is the ultimate and obviously its top dollar. What do people think is the best “bang for your bucks” value option? including from the following: -Yokohama AD08 or V105 -Dunlop DZ03G -Hankook z221 -Kumho V70a -Toyo R888 Appreciated and regards to all
  2. 2004 996 GT3 3.6L ENGINE - INTO A - 1998 996 C2 3.4L BODY SHELL We have been looking at the body shells & PET diagrams. - Understand the GT3 engine/box is longer & heavier (?) The 2 key parts that seem different are on: PET "REAR END" DIAGRAM - 801-35 A - TERMINAL PIECE - item 1 - this is VERY different. C2: - 996 551 973 00 GT3: - 996 551 173 90 B - REAR WALL - item 9 - large piece - but seems quite similar? C2: - 996 502 911 00 GT3: - 996 502 191 91 Would most appreciate any advice re: - Are these the relevant different body parts? - any other different parts people can think
  3. ps - re fitting "Cup Car" style carbon doors - vs OEM steel doors - the weight saving apparently is huge - 40 odd pounds per door ?!
  4. I have recently had a relatively major track "off" - so looking for many replacement body parts. - no insurance cover for the damage of course :( Bumper covers, doors, fenders,bonnet, engine lid, wing etc Am interested in lightweight fibreglass (FRP) or carbon panels as substitutes for OEM parts - my car is used on the race-track a lot. Understand Carbon is more expensive - but lighter. But FRP easier to do minor repair work on from a small bump? 1 - Thoughts on OEM vs FRP vs Carbon? OEM parts fit well, are good for re-sale etc - but ARE also expensive! 2 - Recommended non-OE
  5. Need a new set of FRONT BRAKE ROTORS – for my 996 Mk II 2004 GT3 (ie with the larger 6 pot calipers) Have been getting 6 moths use only from the OEM Sebro’s. Cracking from the very outside ventilation holes close to edge of rotors, plus cracks between the holes. I’m typically only doing short sprints, time trials etc – or 8 lap races (9/10 minutes) – at most - So fade, heating not a huge issue More focussed on getting some good life from the rotors – but still reasonable bite factor etc. OEM Sebros are DRILLED of course – I hear SLOTTED rotors are better as no issues with the c
  6. I'm only going off what the Workshop says to me - we need camber to get heat & push the rears to grip better under load ....especially thru high speed corners is there a simpler way to do it then? - ie with toe? many thanks
  7. thanks Craig - I'm getting there - all clear now! cheers :)
  8. Thanks Loren so the Cup rear trailing arm includes parts 1-8-9 in the diagram? cheers
  9. anyone know how to access some replicas of the very cool looking wind deflectors - or down-force vanes (?) - on the new 997 Gen II GT3 RS 4.0l - on the sides of the front bumper cover - see pic attached thanks
  10. Thanks- bit confused - my car is '04 996 CS so do I upgrade to RS/Cup arms? think these are correct: ?? 996 331 053 90 leftwishbone assembly 996 331 054 90 Right cheers
  11. I am looking for some adjustable LHS rear wheel control arms for my Porsche 996 2004 GT3 CS I am starting circuit racing & we need to get morecamber into the slick tyres to make them work - ie get hot! Apparently - the standard arms on a road 996 GT3 just won't give enough camber adjustment. will 996 GT3 Cup (or RS?) arms do the job? Appreciate any insights/parts available thanks :)
  12. wow! - awesome advice :) thanks
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