deliriousga

The guy who signed me in and took my keys seems to know about it, and said it was normal and related to the cam...something about a spot where acceleration/decceleration "decision" is made.

That's bull. If that were the case, it would have the vibration from day one. Our 2000 Boxster didn't have any such vibration until 2006. I really think it's the dual mass flywheel. Something I hope to change in the near future, but I can't seem to find a lightweight flywheel for the 2000, 2.7L Boxster. The only ones I can find are for the 2.5L snd 3.2L engines.

Lift the front wheels, grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it vertically. If it wiggles at all the ball joints are on the way out and need to be replaced pronto.

Grab the wheel on the right and left and try to wiggle it horizontally. If it wiggles, the tie rod ends are going and need to be replaced.

In AllData I don't see a heater valve either. I see a "heat exchanger" which seems to be what they call the heater core. It looks like the heat is always "on" with the temperature mixer flap opening and closing the valves to allow either hot or cool air in.

That's the problem with mine. I have no heat when it's below freezing outside. If I run the car to normal operating temperature, I can pull over and re-start the car and the heat will work againl. The temperature mixing valve makes a grinding noise so it was easier for me to find the problem.

Hope you find it soon before it gets too cold.

During deceleration while in gear, my 2001 boxster has a strange vibration at about 3k rpms. Higher or lower it is not evident. It doesn't matter what gear i'm in, it always happens when i slow to around 3k. I am not using the brakes when this occurs. Any ideas?

is it only during deceleration and not also with acceleration? if it's both, i would check tire pressures and get the wheels balanced.

Flywheel or pilot bearing. I'm about to change my clutch in the next few weeks and find out which it is. I'm not replacing the flywheel so if the vibration is still there when I'm finishied, it's the flywheel. Either the bearing wears or the flywheel wears off center and causes the problem.

The reason it does not vibrate when accelerating is the engine is putting the pressure on the spin. Since the flywheel/pilot bearing are straight off the crankshaft, the spin is more balanced. On deceleration, the wheels are putting the pressure on the spin so the balance is centered on the tranny end of the drive shaft. If the pilot bearing/flywheel are the problem, then they are at the end with less pressure and can spin out of balance more easily.

The other factor that will tell you it's in the drive train is if it happens in more than one gear at the same rpm. If so, then it's at different speeds. Different speeds mean it's not in the wheels or suspension. Wheel/suspension problems depend on speed of the vehicle so they would happen at speed ranges no matter what the rpm.

Since the problem in mine started I've had the car aligned and balanced just because it was time to do it and there is no difference in the vibration so don't waste your money with balancing/alignment unless it's just time to do it.

I'm having noises come from my front end on the road - so I suspect the same problem - does no one do a replacement bush for these?

I've just had Elephant Racing bushes fitted to my 1973 car and hope someone might be selling something similar for the moderns! :rolleyes:

Philip

The creaking sound is most likely the ball joint. It's supposed to be sealed, but it loses some grease. If you use a large syringe, you can inject some grease (make sure it's safe for rubber parts) into the boot and your squeaks will go away. I'm going to eventually see if the replacement boots I have for the 928 are the same size and I'll post it when I find out, but it may be a while.

Toolpants is right, low coolant level.

is there any issues that can arise if the coolant level is too high?

There's an overflow tube so I don't think a high coolant level would be an issue. It would just spill out on street.

If you look in your owner's manual on page 62 (for the '00 model), it shows a flashing light indicating low coolant OR a fault in the engine compartment blower fan. If you coolant level is good, check to see if your engine compartment fan is coming on. If not, it can be the fan itself, the relay for the fan or the temperature sensor for the fan that's mounted in the passenger side "spider" between intake tubes. The temp sensor was my problem awhile ago and I got the same flashing light.

If your coolant is low, check under the carpet in the trunk to see if your reservoir is leaking from behind.

Finally, like Loren said, get the Durametric tool. It will tell you if it's the seatbelt buckle or something else in the system before you clear the light. It will save you way more than the $250 you pay for it in the long run.

i think it's all in your head. :lol:

i have the same reaction every time i change my oil. and every time i fill up my gas tank, for that matter! i really think that oil is oil is oil.

but if it works for you, by all means continue using it. btw, i think Porsche now recommends 0w-40.

If oil is oil is oil, then put some regular (not synthetic) Quaker State in the Box and run it for the factory spec of 15K miles. Try a blended oil and do the same. Your mind will be changed...along with your engine.

As far as the weight, the 0W40 is good for almost all climates. That's why Porsche puts it in at the factory. It's easier to have one weight and not have to worry about where/when the car is delivered. This began on 01/24/01. As of 7/28/06, the list of approved oils includes several brands only in 0W40 and 5W40 weights, all synthetic. You can get the full list at AllData along with all TSBs and repair info if you get a membership. :cheers:

Anyone know the torque spec for the idler?

From AllData and the Bentley manual:

Hexagon nut a/f 24 M16x1.5 65 ±5Nm (48 ±3.5 ft lb)

Hexagon-head bolts M10 45 Nm (33 ft lb)

Hexagon nut a/f 13 M8 15 Nm (11 ft lb)

Look on the bolt head for the size or measure it. I can't remember which bolts are what size.

That coolant line looks more like the "J" tube that goes into the air/oil separator. It looks like the crack in your filler tube is causing the leak like mine did. There's a vacuum on the tube so it can leak even though you are not filling it.

Dashboard removal is not too bad. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to get it out and about 2 hours to get it back in. I don't think you will have to remove the dash for the heater actuator flap, though. I believe once you remove the passenger side airbag you should be able to reach everything ok, but don't quot me on that.

Please post what you end up doing. I need to replace ours soon. You can hear it having a tough time, but it's not dead yet. :cheers:

A quick way to know for sure if it's the coolant reservoir, just pull the right side of the trunk liner up. There will be coolant under it if the reservoir is leaking. :cheers:

Cooland Indicator light came on today.

My 2001 Porsche Boxster S is leaking coolant from the right rear wheel well.

I immediatly brought cooland level back to the safe level (one quart). At the same time I noticed the coolant leaking from the right rear wheel well.

Just removed trunk liner and yes there is cooland under the reservoir. I can't seem to tell where it is leaking from though. I started the car and waited until the raidator fan kicked in and still can't seem to see any additional leaks.

Is it possible that the leak was from the blue cap, which I re-tightened after refill? Or there could be some other hidden leak around the reservoir? Any one else seem this problem?

Thanks,

Doug

Sorry, I just saw this post. If the reservoir leaks, it does it from behind where you can't see it. The weak spots are along the back wall of the trunk so you just see coolant and no cracks. If the cap leaks, there's a drain hole that should allow it to drain without getting under the trunk liner. Also, if it leaks from the cap when the engine is hot, you will see a good bit of condensation on the trunk lid above the cap.

what is the trick as i'm beating this poor grey connector up bad. Great info on the horn bushing problem but nobody mentions taking the airbag off in detail! obviously they are not having the issue I am.

The yellow connection on the back of the air looks like it shouldn't be removed and the grey one going into the column will not come out with pliers when the clip is pushed up.

Is this supposed to come out, as i'm afraid I am going to break it!

Don't remove the gray one. The yellow clip connected to the steering wheel airbag is the one that comes off. Put a flathead screwdriver behind it and pry up a little to pop it off. Make sure the screwdriver is close to the center of the cap so you don't damage the plastic cap. :cheers:

Try the emergency release in the door frame (above the top hinge - way back in there).

Thanks!! I'll try it tonight. :cheers:

MY 2000 big problem. The gas door will not unlock with the doors. When I hit the locks, it makes a noise at the gas door but when you push on it, it's stuck. I've tried using the remote and unlocking with the key but it's still stuck.

Any ideas?

TIA!! :cheers:

A quick way to know for sure if it's the coolant reservoir, just pull the right side of the trunk liner up. There will be coolant under it if the reservoir is leaking. :cheers:

Almost sounds like an intermittent wire or connection since sometimes it works.

I wonder if the pedal sensor is bad?

The Durametric Software can read and reset codes for ABS, PSM, AC/Heating, Airbags, Tiptronic, Seat memory, etc. It can read but not reset alarm codes.

I don't know of any other tool that can do that besides a used PST2 ($2000-$4000 on eBay) or a PIWIS $18,000 at your dealer.

Thanks for all of the great info Loren. Someone with a VW with E-gas had a similar problem and said cleaning the pedal assembly and sensor fixed it so I think I will try that then get the Durametric hook up if it still gives me trouble.

Thanks again for the help! :cheers:

Was this the problem you had before replacing the throttle body?

Did you do it or did a shop use the old throttle sensor on the new throttle body?

Yes, the problem started before the throttle body was replaced. I had to replace the turn signal switch so the battery was disconnected to do that. When I reconnected the battery and went through the calibration sequence, the throttle would not go above 2400rpm. Since then I cleaned the old throttle body and did the other part replacements to try and remedy the problem, but it won't go away.

I was wondering if the Durametric was worth the money since I already have the OBDII reader. From your post, being able to read the computer settings before starting the engine, it looks like it may be worth a try.

Anyone try AAMCO for replacing the clutch?

Double A...Hell no!

$2K is a good price for a clutch replacement if they are a Porsche specialist.

You need the PST2 to check for fault codes and to verify that the throttle is reading 80% at full throttle.

The Durametric software can give you those same readings.

When I pull it up with my OBDII reader and watch the real time stats, the throttle position stays flat at 5.19% at idle and when the pedal is all the way down. The MAF rate is flat in all positions too, never changes. Once I clear the codes, everything runs normally, but at full throttle the throttle position is 100%. Is that something that can be cured by plugging in a PST2 instead of the OBDII?

After this, I was thinking there may be a problem with the throttle position sensor, but since it's E-gas, I think that is built in to the throttle body that I just replaced, but I'm not sure about that. In the Bentley manual they don't really cover the E-gas very much. Does anyone know if there is a separate throttle position sensor on the eGas model?

TIA! :cheers:

Perform adaptation. (you will need a PST2 or PIWIS for this)

1. Switch on the ignition.

2. Wait one minute. Do not press the accelerator.

3. Switch off the ignition for at least 10 seconds.

4. Read out the fault memory.

I thought the adaptation mentioned in Bentley manual did not mention the PST2. Does the reading of the fault memory with the PST2 finish the adaptation? It would be wonderful if I could just take it down to my local guy and have him do this.

Sorry to get bogged down in this, but I'm curious about how the PST2 works. I have an OBDII reader and was looking at the Durametric Porsche reader. My OBDII reader will only read the DME when the car is running but the above instructions look like you read the DME with the car off. Can the PST2 read the DME when it's off or just turned to the "on" position without starting the car or does it have to be running?

Thanks! :cheers:

I'm at my wits' end with trying to figure out the throttle problem so I'm wondering if the DME itself is messing up. Is there a way for me to test it or do I have to give up and go to a dealer?

I think I've done everything else I can to try and remedy the problem. The E-Gas throttle will not go over 2K rpm and gives me the code P1502. If I clear the code, the car runs beautifully until you turn off the engine and restart it. That's the case whether the engine is cold, warm or hot. I have checked for vacuum leaks and replaced the MAF, O2 sensors, fuel pump relay and throttle body. I don't know what else could cause this problem and go away when the code is cleared unless it's a problem with the DME.

TIA! :cheers:

I have a diagram of the belt layout on my website if you need it. http://www.theschillings.com

If you think that the system has lost all its pressure and has been open to atmosphere I wouldn't use the self-refill kits. My aircon guy says they contain sealant that solidifies on contact with water and knows of two drivers who have 1. wrecked their compressor and 2. blocked their expansion valve. Both required costly replacement.

That's a great point. If you do a refill yourself, get the cans of freon only. Don't get the ones with oil and/or leak stopper in them. The oil does not leak out so there is no reason to put more in. If it ends up being a leak, you should get it repaired to keep from causing further damage if it suddenly drains out.

MY 2000 Boxster S with 32,000 miles on it. It appears that one inner CV joint boot is completely split, and the other is cracked. Is this normal for them to wear out this fast? Can the boots just be replaced? What is the estimated cost?

thanks

Tommy

The boots cracking depends on climate, use, etc. If the car sits a lot, they're more likely to dry rot more and split. It's normal so don't worry about it, but replace them asap so you don't damage the joints.

The boots can be replaced, but if you pay someone to do it you may be better off getting the whole thing replaced by the time you pay for labor to change the boots. If you DIY it, you'll probably spend around $80-$100 for the parts.

The clutch in the Boxster is a sports car clutch so it will be a little harder to push. The clamping force is higher than most other cars and you are pushing against that force. If it gets harder over time, you probably need to bleed the slave cylinder and/or lube the guide tube.

Btw, we have 82K miles on our clutch and it's still in great shape with good pull and sliding nicely, but it all depends on how it's driven.