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Everything posted by deliriousga

  1. That's bull. If that were the case, it would have the vibration from day one. Our 2000 Boxster didn't have any such vibration until 2006. I really think it's the dual mass flywheel. Something I hope to change in the near future, but I can't seem to find a lightweight flywheel for the 2000, 2.7L Boxster. The only ones I can find are for the 2.5L snd 3.2L engines.
  2. Lift the front wheels, grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it vertically. If it wiggles at all the ball joints are on the way out and need to be replaced pronto. Grab the wheel on the right and left and try to wiggle it horizontally. If it wiggles, the tie rod ends are going and need to be replaced.
  3. In AllData I don't see a heater valve either. I see a "heat exchanger" which seems to be what they call the heater core. It looks like the heat is always "on" with the temperature mixer flap opening and closing the valves to allow either hot or cool air in. That's the problem with mine. I have no heat when it's below freezing outside. If I run the car to normal operating temperature, I can pull over and re-start the car and the heat will work againl. The temperature mixing valve makes a grinding noise so it was easier for me to find the problem. Hope you find it soon before it gets to
  4. is it only during deceleration and not also with acceleration? if it's both, i would check tire pressures and get the wheels balanced. Flywheel or pilot bearing. I'm about to change my clutch in the next few weeks and find out which it is. I'm not replacing the flywheel so if the vibration is still there when I'm finishied, it's the flywheel. Either the bearing wears or the flywheel wears off center and causes the problem. The reason it does not vibrate when accelerating is the engine is putting the pressure on the spin. Since the flywheel/pilot bearing are straight off the crankshaft, t
  5. The creaking sound is most likely the ball joint. It's supposed to be sealed, but it loses some grease. If you use a large syringe, you can inject some grease (make sure it's safe for rubber parts) into the boot and your squeaks will go away. I'm going to eventually see if the replacement boots I have for the 928 are the same size and I'll post it when I find out, but it may be a while.
  6. There's an overflow tube so I don't think a high coolant level would be an issue. It would just spill out on street. If you look in your owner's manual on page 62 (for the '00 model), it shows a flashing light indicating low coolant OR a fault in the engine compartment blower fan. If you coolant level is good, check to see if your engine compartment fan is coming on. If not, it can be the fan itself, the relay for the fan or the temperature sensor for the fan that's mounted in the passenger side "spider" between intake tubes. The temp sensor was my problem awhile ago and I got the same fl
  7. i think it's all in your head. :lol: i have the same reaction every time i change my oil. and every time i fill up my gas tank, for that matter! i really think that oil is oil is oil. but if it works for you, by all means continue using it. btw, i think Porsche now recommends 0w-40. If oil is oil is oil, then put some regular (not synthetic) Quaker State in the Box and run it for the factory spec of 15K miles. Try a blended oil and do the same. Your mind will be changed...along with your engine. As far as the weight, the 0W40 is good for almost all climates. That's why Porsche put
  8. From AllData and the Bentley manual: Hexagon nut a/f 24 M16x1.5 65 ±5Nm (48 ±3.5 ft lb) Hexagon-head bolts M10 45 Nm (33 ft lb) Hexagon nut a/f 13 M8 15 Nm (11 ft lb) Look on the bolt head for the size or measure it. I can't remember which bolts are what size.
  9. That coolant line looks more like the "J" tube that goes into the air/oil separator. It looks like the crack in your filler tube is causing the leak like mine did. There's a vacuum on the tube so it can leak even though you are not filling it.
  10. Dashboard removal is not too bad. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to get it out and about 2 hours to get it back in. I don't think you will have to remove the dash for the heater actuator flap, though. I believe once you remove the passenger side airbag you should be able to reach everything ok, but don't quot me on that. Please post what you end up doing. I need to replace ours soon. You can hear it having a tough time, but it's not dead yet. :cheers:
  11. Cooland Indicator light came on today. My 2001 Porsche Boxster S is leaking coolant from the right rear wheel well. I immediatly brought cooland level back to the safe level (one quart). At the same time I noticed the coolant leaking from the right rear wheel well. Just removed trunk liner and yes there is cooland under the reservoir. I can't seem to tell where it is leaking from though. I started the car and waited until the raidator fan kicked in and still can't seem to see any additional leaks. Is it possible that the leak was from the blue cap, which I re-tightened afte
  12. Don't remove the gray one. The yellow clip connected to the steering wheel airbag is the one that comes off. Put a flathead screwdriver behind it and pry up a little to pop it off. Make sure the screwdriver is close to the center of the cap so you don't damage the plastic cap. :cheers:
  13. MY 2000 big problem. The gas door will not unlock with the doors. When I hit the locks, it makes a noise at the gas door but when you push on it, it's stuck. I've tried using the remote and unlocking with the key but it's still stuck. Any ideas? TIA!! :cheers:
  14. A quick way to know for sure if it's the coolant reservoir, just pull the right side of the trunk liner up. There will be coolant under it if the reservoir is leaking. :cheers:
  15. Thanks for all of the great info Loren. Someone with a VW with E-gas had a similar problem and said cleaning the pedal assembly and sensor fixed it so I think I will try that then get the Durametric hook up if it still gives me trouble. Thanks again for the help! :cheers:
  16. Yes, the problem started before the throttle body was replaced. I had to replace the turn signal switch so the battery was disconnected to do that. When I reconnected the battery and went through the calibration sequence, the throttle would not go above 2400rpm. Since then I cleaned the old throttle body and did the other part replacements to try and remedy the problem, but it won't go away. I was wondering if the Durametric was worth the money since I already have the OBDII reader. From your post, being able to read the computer settings before starting the engine, it looks like it may be
  17. Double A...Hell no! $2K is a good price for a clutch replacement if they are a Porsche specialist.
  18. When I pull it up with my OBDII reader and watch the real time stats, the throttle position stays flat at 5.19% at idle and when the pedal is all the way down. The MAF rate is flat in all positions too, never changes. Once I clear the codes, everything runs normally, but at full throttle the throttle position is 100%. Is that something that can be cured by plugging in a PST2 instead of the OBDII? After this, I was thinking there may be a problem with the throttle position sensor, but since it's E-gas, I think that is built in to the throttle body that I just replaced, but I'm not sure about
  19. I thought the adaptation mentioned in Bentley manual did not mention the PST2. Does the reading of the fault memory with the PST2 finish the adaptation? It would be wonderful if I could just take it down to my local guy and have him do this. Sorry to get bogged down in this, but I'm curious about how the PST2 works. I have an OBDII reader and was looking at the Durametric Porsche reader. My OBDII reader will only read the DME when the car is running but the above instructions look like you read the DME with the car off. Can the PST2 read the DME when it's off or just turned to the "on" po
  20. I'm at my wits' end with trying to figure out the throttle problem so I'm wondering if the DME itself is messing up. Is there a way for me to test it or do I have to give up and go to a dealer? I think I've done everything else I can to try and remedy the problem. The E-Gas throttle will not go over 2K rpm and gives me the code P1502. If I clear the code, the car runs beautifully until you turn off the engine and restart it. That's the case whether the engine is cold, warm or hot. I have checked for vacuum leaks and replaced the MAF, O2 sensors, fuel pump relay and throttle body. I don
  21. I have a diagram of the belt layout on my website if you need it. http://www.theschillings.com
  22. That's a great point. If you do a refill yourself, get the cans of freon only. Don't get the ones with oil and/or leak stopper in them. The oil does not leak out so there is no reason to put more in. If it ends up being a leak, you should get it repaired to keep from causing further damage if it suddenly drains out.
  23. The boots cracking depends on climate, use, etc. If the car sits a lot, they're more likely to dry rot more and split. It's normal so don't worry about it, but replace them asap so you don't damage the joints. The boots can be replaced, but if you pay someone to do it you may be better off getting the whole thing replaced by the time you pay for labor to change the boots. If you DIY it, you'll probably spend around $80-$100 for the parts.
  24. The clutch in the Boxster is a sports car clutch so it will be a little harder to push. The clamping force is higher than most other cars and you are pushing against that force. If it gets harder over time, you probably need to bleed the slave cylinder and/or lube the guide tube. Btw, we have 82K miles on our clutch and it's still in great shape with good pull and sliding nicely, but it all depends on how it's driven.
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