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mhall1019
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Everything posted by mhall1019
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I was thinking more about their having buggered up some wires while they were installing the unit. Do you have any idea how to find the part # for the "passenger compartment monitoring sensor". In my parts book it is listed in a secret section and there are no part #s given - just an option number, I think, M499. Section 903-04 shows the lnterrior light assembly, but there's no mention of an infrared sensor - I think that's how they detect the presence of a warm body. I did a search on "passenger". Maybe I'll try "sensor". Mike
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Voltage regulator was replaced - keeps battery at 13.5V. Cleared codes with PST2 and still have codes 34 and 60. Replace passenger location sensor? Look for short? In center of dash in the area of the central locking button and follow wires to nearest connector? Thanks, Mike
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Yes, but, the workshop manual doesn't call parts by tbe same name as parts katalog. So, if I'm going to shotgun these codes, I need to find the passenger compartment location sensor. I also want to pull out my Pioneer deck with custom enclosure. It needs repair anyway, so I thought I'd look to see if there's any wires shorted together in there. ...Unless there is a more logical place to look for a short. So, is the right plan to change the passenger sensor, and look for a short in the center of the of the console?
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Loren's got it. The only key you have to use on your laptop are mostly F12 to accept or carry on, to return F11 and sometimes the bottom screen will show you f4 or...I can't remember the other's but some at the bottom like diode test etc. are useless. Loren's always got it! JP: I replaced the entire assembly. I'm not sure what, besides the switch at the front end of the assembly, was updated in this version that came out in 2004(?). I can find the box tomorrow if you want the teile no. The new ignition assembly has corrected the mushiness in the lock and eliminated the key not removed dash alarm. The steering lock is extremely tight/stiff. The PST2 was very easy to use. I'm surprised it doesn't know what vehicle its connected to, but it sure goes at least one step beyond Durametric's analysis. I now have codes 34 and 60. Each has a count of 1 because they must be continuous faults that come back and stay on after resetting them. The 34 was signal short (+) and the other was passenger compartment position implausible. Neither one told me what color wire to check. The passenger compartment seemed to be in its normal position. In any case, I still get two beeps when I press the transponder. Mike
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The car started and the battery was being charged at 13.3 volts. I cleared the 3 alarm codes I had last time. And, I still have the 2 beeps when I click the transponder. So, I moved on to the ignition switch. It was relatively easy other than trying to get the switch surround, key and paper clip all lined up. After I hooked everything back up, I got one turn of the engine and then nothing. I thought the steering lock might have been loose and it was, so I pulled it, lubed it a little and it seated properly. Then I called this young skinny guy to come over and finish putting it back together. He's been under the dash before and I expect that it will all be put together properly. Whether it cranks and starts is another matter. I haven't connected the PST2 to the car yet. I can't find the [<<] or maybe its the [>>] key. The menus look a lot like Durametric's. It says you can log up to 8 variables at a time - how long can you log for? I saw a download on this site for the instruction manual but all I found was 10 pages of warnings about electrical hazards. Have you seen a complete manual or just used the one in the program. Mike
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That's what the PST2 I got looks like. Won't get to play with it until the car is running. Found vacuum line connection - moved 40 wires and hoses and voila! Then it was a whole nother job putting the hose on it.
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jp: Yes, that coolant temperature sender was only about 2 hours away! I have finally come to a roadblock - I can't find where the end of the hose goes in the pictures. One end attaches to the valve, and the other end sucks air at the present time. It probably goes behind the whole mess there, but before I try to find a home for it back there I thought I'd check with someone like you that has a memory span more than 10 minutes. Thanks, Mike Lost internet connection for a while - no pics uploaded
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Wanna hear something even funnier. I mentioned that there were two of those temperature senders on the engine. I changed the wrong one! It took more than an hour to get to it - I had to take a water hose loose. Then, as I was getting ready to put the oil filter housing back on, I saw the one I needed to to change. Luckily I had two new ones. I guess you would understand why it took me 6 months to change my clutch! My fingers are getting feeble along with my brain! I had to quit last night before I finished putting the recirc valves and intake pipe back on. Assuming the engine runs after I finish this, I still need to change the ignition switch with the upgraded one. Can you believe I used to be able to pull a 911 engine in two hours (pre-CIS). I'll be able to check out my OBDII wiring when I'm working on the ign. switch and maybe I'll find out why my Durametric doesn't work most of the time. My used PST2 should arrive today and maybe I'll be able to read codes with it to narrow down the problems with the alarms system. Might even be able to program my new key that's been cut for my car. Hope I don't end up "bricking" my car. Thanks, Mike
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I've been in there before, but I pictured the temperature sender being at the base of the oil/water exchanger. I had to change the oil pressure line because it was crimped - almost closed off. Came from the factory that way, I guess. Luckily, pressure senders don't need flow to them or there may have been a pressure drop across the restriction. For a minute there, I thought you were going to tell me I needed to take the engine out...
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jp - Is there any chance that once I get the alternator out I'll have access to the sensor without removing the throttle body? Also, the reason I asked "which one?", is that the same part is used in section 101-15 #24.
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Since the battery tested good and the alternator tested bad, I'll be replacing the voltage regulator tomorrow. I won't hesitate to replace the battery if the new voltage regulator won't hold the battery up over 14V with no load. A new problem that arose this week is that I get a dash alarm after I take the ign key out saying that the ign key has not been removed. If I run the key in and out a few times I hear the click of the tumblers (?) and the alarm goes away. So, after I finish the alternator and test it, I'll move on to replacing the entire ignition lock assembly.
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If you've been reading along, from the tests I've run on the battery and charging system, is it still likely to be the battery? Do you know if low 12s voltage is sufficient, or should I throw a new voltage regulator at it? If that raises the supply voltage to the car, I may still need to replace the battery because its been running on the low side for so long and does not a full charge from the alternator. Any ideas on that? Thanks, Mike
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Good to hear from you again and thanks for that huge money-saving tip. If you read my list of 3 items above, I'm still stuck on #2, because I don't know for sure what the specs are for the charging system. If I am able to find a PST2 system, it may provide diagnostics for the charging system. Or, if I could get my Durametric to communicate regularly, I could monitor the voltage on a short road trip from starting the car to shutting it off. If the alternator is outputting 12+ volts under load and maintaining the battery at 12+ volts is this satisfactory? I'll spend some time today in the workshop manual to see if the testing of the system is shown as voltage and hydrometer readings, or from a PIWIS or PST2 diagnostic. A more basic question now is, am I barking up the wrong tree - I'm trying to fix a fault in the alarm system and after charging the battery fully, I cleared the alarm system codes and the code that mentioned low voltage didn't come back, but the others did. Is the battery/charging system, even though its not 100%, good enough to not likely be the source of the alarm system codes? In which case, I need to move to the next step which is not obvious to me. It could be that, without a factory tester, I won't be able to troubleshoot it. Thanks again, Mike
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Loren - it looks like the alternator/voltage regulator is only maintaining the battery at a little over 12 volts. Bench tested the original battery and it was good. Tested the battery and charging system in car: Battery good, starter good and alternator low voltage. We tested at the Carquest store and in the air after jumping out of an airplane. Should I put faith in their generic tester? I hope its the belt and not the $1600 alternator. If this condition of the charging system isn't acceptable, it will have to be repaired, and then I've still got the alarm system issues, unless they are resolved by maintaining a higher minimum voltage? Thanks, Mike
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Problem 1): After charging the battery overnight to 14+ volts, Durametric came right up communicating - I had codes 46, 34, 60 in the alarm module, which I cleared. I went through a couple of cycles of disconnecting and reconnecting Durametric, closing and restarting the program. Starting and stopping the engine, opening and closing doors, etc. The codes didn't come back, but there was an achtung! symbol on the readout for the alarm codes, in the header section, where there is normally a big green checkmark after codes are cleared. Is there a ritual I have to go through to reactivate the alarm system after the codes are cleared? I presume that, since I really didn't fix anything, the codes will come back. Problem 2): Charging system is only maintaining battery slightly above 12 volts. I'll check and tighten the belt tension if its too loose. I'm guessing that's not going to fix anything because the power steering, A/C, engine coolant are OK. Problem 3): I quoted the engine fault code wrong - I have a P0197, 125, oil temp. This is the one that reads -40 until the car warms up and then reads out normal values. But, I don't know which oil temp. sensor it is. Thanks, Mike
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Hey, guess what! The battery tested good, but low voltage - 12.1V. Its getting a good overnight charge now. This battery is 2.5 yrs old and once before it died but was found to be good but no voltage. It took a charge and never failed again. This leads me to think that I may have an alternator/charging problem. I think that batteries run about 14.4 volts with no load and drop down to the low 13s under load. I also wonder if the low voltage is responsible for the communication problems with the Durametric. I think I'll put the charger on the battery that's in the car now and bring it up to 14+ volts and see what happens.
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Mike, I have the IBM lap top version with KTS520 interface ( same PC as is used in the OPC PST2) of PST2 its the full works and it does data log within its self but does not really support sending that info anywhere. The problem is that PST2 uses the 1998 ota IBM computer which is totally incompatible with modern working systems. Even the output plugs/leads are a miss match. It does not support USB either which makes things very difficult. Thanks, Sunny for that info. How big of a hard drive (floppy disc?) does it have? Does it show just a spreadsheet-looking log or is it graphical? How many variables at a time? What's the fastest it can scan? It sure would be nice if some electronic design engineer worked up some interface to enable outputting. I just looked back and saw that you called it and ota IBM computer. I'll have to check and see what kind of documentation is available. Thanks again for the info. Mike
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Loren: I definitely will get the battery checked out. But, because I have problems with communicating with durametric, itmay take a day or a week to read and clear codes. I have found a PST2 to rent before buying. Does the PST2 have the ability to do any logging? Does it have any data outputs? The one I'm looking at isn't a Bosch convert,. It is a small laptop with PCMCIA controller card and the cable to connect it to the OBD port. Mike
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I think I'll start with the battery ground connection - it could be preventing the battery from being all it could be. I was planning to start methodically checking wiring connections, starting with places that incompetents like me have had their hands on. I'm hoping that once the battery condition question is answered and I assure that I've got a reliable power source, Loren will have some recommended prioritized troubleshooting path based on the codes I got, or some way of narrowing it down. I have suspected that I've got an intermittent ground connection (or power, or data...) at my OBDII connector ever since I first started having comm problems with Durametric. I guess I'm lucky that this issue I'm having now doesn't really affect anything real important, other than placing and receiving my order at Dunkin'
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Hey, that was Loren's first response! I will take the original (newer) battery in for load testing and charging tomorrow. I think that tonight I will take the car completely apart and put it back together cleaning and tightening all the electrical parts and connections.
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pm sent. Had a 1-shot comm success wth alarm module. found & cleared codes 60, 46, 21, 34, 11. I didn't write down the verbiage. What do you think? Mike
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Loren - Yes, of course, that was an engine code. I thought that since I was communicating, I'd get a chance to look at the alarm module codes. But, I didn't get that far. Are there sub-modules controlled by the main module or just components that can fail? Never mind, I can find it on line. Thanks, Mike
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Loren: Well, I got the Durametric to connect briefly, enough time to clear a P0159, oil temperature. It reads -40 until the engine warms up and then reads normal. Aren't there two oil temps? Which one is this one? Anyway, I tried 15 or 20 more times and, although the program recognized that the cable was attached, the light on the connector was either solid green or solid red and couldn't communicate with any of the modules. It suggested that maybe they didn't exist. I'll check my local PCA region for other diagnostic tools, but I don't know of any of the independents in the area that have one. Is there any device between the $300 Durametric and the $10k+ PIWIS? Upstate NY is desolate and barren. Thanks for your help. Mike
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If the codes will show up on my generic code reader, then I can get that info. My car has always had a communication problem with Durametric. They've been very helpful and gave me a new cable. It didn't work any better. There is no consistent pattern to the communication errors. Occasionally, it recognizes my ECU without my selecting it and allows me to collect up to 15 minutes of present values and occasionally I can turn fans on, etc. I'd like to start troubleshooting it with the OBDII connector in the car - look for loose connections etc.
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After changing the battery, there were two changes. The windows started doing their thing when the door was opened and closed. And, they ratcheted upwards each time. After about 10 door open/closes, the windows learned where top of travel was and now their closed. Also, the locking system with the key in the lock causes the horn to beep loudly when the door is locked (?maybe unlocked). But, the switches don't operate the windows, and , the interior lights and sunroof don't work. Loren - is there a next step besides driving to the dealer - at least I can drive in the rain now. Luckily, headlights, wipers and A/C work. Voo-doo-doo-doo-doo-doo....
