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mhall1019

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About mhall1019

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 10/19/1948

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    US
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 teeteeex50 blk, blk, CF, 67k mi., stock (for the near future, mods start next weekend).
    2002 subaru impreza 2.5 rs
  • Former cars
    '53 Chevy Pickup, '59 Pontiac Catalina, '74 T, '73 S, '72 T, '74 T Targa, '74T, '79 SC, '92 C4, '95 C2, '94 Ferrari 348 Challenge Twin Turbo, '74 BMW 2002 tii, '73 BMW 3.0S

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  1. Loren - Is the parts list available in a database format - text or excel? I could use it for organizing large parts orders - prevent making duplicate orders, keeping track of what's been ordered, received, backordered, etc. I'm trying to place a 300+ part # order to Sunset and am having a serious issue keeping track of what's been ordered and received and keeping up with supercessions.I've been downloading sections of it 50 lines at a time, but it's not working real well. Thanks, Mike
  2. Loren: 10 years later, and I read about "sport" pads (genuine, buy from the dealer) in other forums but, I've never seen the part numbers mentioned and its not clear whether they are talking about the PCCBs or not. So, is there now a sport pad for the non-PCCB brake setup and, if so, part numbers please. (PET is not very helpful) Thanks, Mike
  3. Thanks, RFM. I went back to look at the service manual and read again what was said about the procedure and I think my problem is finding the right tool to surround the red ring enough not to break it. My most recent attempt was with a battery cable removal tool and it was very close to working. I am going to write to PCNA and demand they put that tool in the tool kit. I like the idea of lube, primarily because it is something I haven't tried yet..
  4. I managed to break the fitting on the top/side of the PS tank when I tried to remove the hose last time. I bought a GT2/Tip tank and then just had to slip the PS hose into the fitting. Am I the only one in the world who has ever had extreme difficulty removing the hose - its inserted into the fitting that has a reddish/orangey O-ring (?) that actually seems to be made of plastic,This O-ringy part is pushed in while putting inward pressure on the hose fitting. Then, at some point, the fitting on the tank releases the hose. But, it just doesn't happen for me. I don';t seem to be able to
  5. Does anyone know the layout of the Motronic program and how to update it using a PST2? I just wanted to try to do my own "tune" and couldn't find any instructions on any of the forums. The "tuners" can't be the only ones that can do it. Thanks, Mike
  6. A Datsun 510! Wow, you actually owned one. I used to watch them racing BMW 2002s, Mazda RX4s, and other great IMSA race cars of the day. Anyway, the same fuse is still running in slot C3. I'll wrap the wires before I put it back together, and we'll make sure it isn't the sun sensor. Thanks again for your help.
  7. jp- I think I may have done it when I took the defroster panels out to replace the CF trim that had curled up and fallen off. That is a job I wouldn't try again with the windshield in the car. The problem is that I couldn't get the cable out in the open enough to look at it thoroughly. I think I'll just wrap them and hope I can get the cable back up to connect to the sensor. Its sitting in the cavity where the nav system goes and it will be just about impossible to get it back up through the maze onto the top of the dash. What's the sun sensor for? Can't they just use the clock and se
  8. I have a PST2 clone, but it doesn't have the meter inputs. I documented a summary of the diagnostic procedures above and, after replacing switches and sensors, the only solutions left are to either " check wiring harness" or "replace alarm logic module". Most wiring harnesses are buried behind heater ducting, carpeting, and generally, a cable, for instance the sun sensor 4-wire cable joins a big bunch of cables behind the middle air duct and in order to "check wiring harness", every other group of wires going into that bundle would have to be removed from their termination points so that the
  9. I have personally seen a 996 series car burned from a dash fire - you don't want to do that. Yes the sun sensor is part of the same assembly. My first 911 - a '74 that I bought in '84 caught on fire and burned up on my way home from picking it up from the PO. Probably a leak in the oil cooler running onto the exhaust. Anyway, disconnecting the central locking system button had no effect. Fuse blew right away when I inserted it after disconnecting the cable. But the problem could be in the cable itself, I guess. After disconnecting the sun sensor, I got a few locks/unlocks before
  10. Thanks, Loren, but that can't work. Its too easy. I never bothered to follow the lines from fuse C3 to see where they went. Is the sun sensor up by the red light that shows the alarm system status? I'll check them out tomorrow. I was also thinking about putting a 300 amp fuse in the C3 slot and see which wire melted. Mike
  11. This is Part II of the process of trying to find out why fuse C3 blows as soon as I put the fuse in. This disables the things in the title and prevents the doors from locking other than the driver's door with the key. Story started August 13. So far I have done the following (some unrelated) without finding the solution: 1) Checked battery, voltage was low (12V) due to low output from alternator; changed voltage regulator. Now runs about 13.5 volts. Bad battery is apparently main cause of alarm logic failures. Replaced both oil temp. senders. 2) Looked at wiring diagrams which led me
  12. jp- I think there have been a couple of them and a lot of write-ups. With mine, the rod that goes across the headliner behind the sunroof was broken off on both sides. Right now, the thought of doing a sunroof delete is more appealing than doing a sunroof repair. I'll be driving the car all winter. With snow wheels/tires on, I can fit on the tracks of car wash without scraping the rims and will be able to get an underside cleaning once a week. Mike
  13. jp Yea, but the most frustrating thing is not being able to lock the passenger door. I will check other fuses tomorrow that might control the locking mechanism in the passenger's door. One good thing to come out of the other job - stopping the rattling in the sunroof - its gone. Didn't fix anything. Took the headliner out and the noise went away. Next step, I'll remove all the rest of the sunroof assembly, replace the sunroof cover with a cf one and try to find a good used non-sunroof headliner or have one made from my old one. Mike
  14. No, no evidence of there ever being dampness under there. The cable connector pins were all clean. The proper operation was restored after reconnecting the module to the cable. It was after reconnecting the airbag cable and a few of the other wires on the upper console and pushing all the cables back into the hole in the dash where the PCM used to be, that the problem was back and worse (the fuse D3 only used to blow when the button on the fob was pushed. Now it blows as soon as its installed (battery connected, no key in ignition). I still think its a wire associated with the PCM/Pioneer
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