mhall1019

Loren, Excellent, thank you. Of course, I had no idea where the tank vent valve was, but knowing that vent lines go into the top of the thing Porsche calls the "intermediate piece" (aka, intake plenum) downstream of the throttle body, I followed one back until I found an electrical socket facing forward where it couldn't be seen from the rear. And it plugged right in. For others that may need to get involved with this thing, it is in the line that is attached to the rearmore of the two connectors on the left sided of the top of the intake plenum - the line takes some bends and end up going to the front of the car on the left side of the engine compartment. Thanks again, Mike

The connector is in the 4-connector harness in the engine compartment near the throttle body - one of the connectors goes to the throttle body, one to the manifold from the intercoolers, the other I don't recall but is obvious when standing there. The mystery one must be within a radius of about 8 inches from the left of the throttle body. I color-corrected the wire colors to be realistic, so, yes, purple and red/blue. Thanks, Mike

Or, maybe, does someone have an engine wiring diagram they could supply ('02, US turbo). Thanks, Mike

I replaced some vent and vacuum hoses while I was replacing the BOVs on a 2002 turbo and when I had it almost back together, there was one electrical connector left over. It is part of a 4-connector harness. It is just two wires, colors as shown in the picture. I ended up pulling things apart again trying to find the socket for the connector but I have no idea where it goes. Does anyone have any idea what it goes to and exactly where it is located? Thanks, Mike

Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware of the limitations of the PSS10s.

There's no rubber hose involved here (unless you want to call it an internal rubber hose) and its not coming from the water pump. It is dripping from the connection between two metal tubes which consists of a rubber insert and a couple of seals. The torquing of the upper and lower bolts that hold the muffler bracket onto the case effects a slight movement of the header (square metal tube) that comes off the water pump and feeds the heads (unless I've got the direction of flow backwards) and causes these connectors to leak. The two lower bolts go through mounting holes in the header tank and secure it to the case sandwiched between the bracket and the case. I'm assuming that when the connecting piece is new it allows some flex between the two metal tubes, but now with 70k miles, its lost some elasticity and both sides need to have the four pieces replaced (2x999.707.411.40, 996.106.238.71 & 996.106.214.70 on each side and the oring on the forward pipe connection to the head, 999.707.410.40). Anyway, unless someone has seen this before and fixed it some other way, that's how I plan to handle it.

2002 Turbo with X00 package; stock engine. Somehow or other the removal and installation of the four green bolts in the picture seem to have caused the little rubber (?) accordions in the other picture to start dripping. I can see that the metal pipes that the rubber bellows connects seem to be farther apart at the bottom than at the top. Its possible that the bottom bolts were torqued down too far and pushed against the coolant header off the water pump in front of it. Or maybe I pried the header out of place when wrestling with the muffler clamp. I think I need to correct the issue with the gap between the tubes in order to get the leak to stop. Anyone have any ideas besides 1 bar "overpressure" (why don't the Germans say "g" for "gauge" pressure, which is the pressure over atmospheric??) duct tape. Late breaking news: we've determined that tightening and loosening those bolts affects the rate of leakage. Is it just time to replace those 4 pieces on each side (16,17,2X18) on illustration 105-00 (2002 turbo) or is there a proper torquing sequence for those bolts. Will continue searching shop manual. Thanks, Mike

Thanks for the input. The PSS10s have gotten a couple of favorable comments when compared with stock suspension. That's the way I will probably go.

I think you will have to rely on inspecting and replacing worn suspension parts, having a proper 4-wheel alignment to conservative factory specifications (on a properly calibrated machine) and wheel balancing performed and having them rechecked if you think you might have done something to upset them. The Porsche suspension is well designed and robust and even with the most torturous driving you're likely to put it through on the street (sinkholes and curbs excepted) it maintains the tire contact patch throughout the range of suspension travel. This is what you've paid for. Keeping it aligned and tires balanced and with proper air pressure is about all you have control over that will affect tire wear.

Boxxy: My amateur analysis of the use of tire temperature profiles: The purpose of the temperature measurement is to determine the temperature profile (and indirectly the amount of friction) across the tire which would give an indication (to an experienced temperature reader) of whether the proper air pressure and suspension settings are being used, and especially to compare readings before and after changes are made to either of those parameters. The IR pyrometer measures surface temperature which will equilibrate very quickly after the car stops, so its not very useful. The proper temperature probe that is inserted into the rubber measures the temperature below the surface before its had time to equilibrate across the tire, a process that starts as soon as heat from friction stops being generated (when it stops rolling). Just like reading your tread depth, if the tire is hotter in the center, the pressure is too high. If the temperature profile across the tire slopes evenly from high at the inside to low at the outside then possibly the camber is too negative. It is not likely you could generate enough tire heat on the street or a curvy road (or an autocross course) to get a meaningful temperature profile across the tires and have time enough to stop the car, jump out and "shoot" all the tires in at least three points across each one and write down the numbers before the temperatures all read the same. This would be especially true with (relatively) hard rubber street tires. And, unless you've got a defective tire with "lumps" on the surface you probably wouldn't see a hot spot that you couldn't detect by the vibrations at that corner of the car. Also, it just occured to me that they make tires with different compounds and/or tread patterns across the tire to create some traction effects (different friction) that would throw off the whole temperature profile reading thing. I don't know about you but I think I'll stick with the white shoe polish.

Loren: Thanks. That's exactly where I was with it. The middle loose and afraid to pry too hard on the ends. I bought genuine (vg used) replacements with new alcantara trim and all their tabs from 911ava on eBay. Mike

I've gone about as far as I'm willing with this job without some experienced help. I'm trying to remove the panels that are at the front of the dash by the windshield, so I can reattach the cf strips that came loose from overexposure to the sun I presume - it probably won't work anyway because they are warped. The workshop manual led me to believe that I just needed to pry it up (Section 701837). I started with the left side. I took the side panel off (the one with the headlight switch) and was able to use a plastic putty knife to pry up the area where the defroster vent is by pushing the tab that is on the bottom of the panel just to the left of the vent. But, the ends of the panel are being very stubborn and I don't want to break my putty knife. Does anybody know if this panel will come off without removing the entire dash? I hate to try to glue a replacement piece onto the dash with it in place. Any ideas? TIA Mike

My '02 turbo with 70k miles squats in the rear too much when stomping on it and makes the car unstable - front gets lighter. If a suspension upgrade is in the cards I will want something that works well (i.e. somewhat comfortable and controllable) on the the bumpy back roads and an occasional DE since this is a daily driver. I'm leaning toward the PSS10s because I've always been satisfied with Bilsteins except for a problem with a '95 C2. The PSS9s I put on that car were a bit on the harsh side and the rear height adjustment required taking half the suspension apart to be able to turn the piece that the sway bar end link mounted to. Unless I was doing it wrong? It looks like the 996 version is the same design. That piece ought to be a sleeve that is sandwiched between two nuts. Are the PSS10s worth $600 more than the H&R coilovers and how do they compare for primarily street use? The X73 setup has been suggested and if I could find a good used set for a reasonable price I would definitely go that way until my budget recovers from getting a rear flat tire at 75mph and bending a rim. But I haven't seen them anywhere. Anyone know where to find a set? I have a set of Epsilon Rims, 12X18 in the rear. I flat spotted a section of the rim on the inside edge when I got a flat at 75mph. Epsilon is apparently out of business so I may not be able to find an 8.5" inner half (more like two-thirds). It wouldn't take much to straighten the rim - no more than a 2-inch flat spot with a max indent of about 1/4-inch. Has anyone had luck with getting a rim "trued"? Thanks, Mike

Time sure flies when you're driving fast! My '02 70k mi tt-6spd with X50 (X51?) turned out to be an X0. Loren's information from PAG indicated 420hp rather than the 450hp from the VIN decoder available here and the X51 option wasn't on the list. The PO has offered me a modest refund but refuses to believe its not what he thought it was. The thing is, 420hp seemed to make the car scary fast. But after a month of driving I've concluded that, on hard acceleration, the rear end squats and the front end gets light and the car gets squirrely like the thrust is making the car go sideways. Is this a reasonable assessment? If a suspension upgrade is in the cards I will want something that works well (i.e. somewhat comfortable and controllable) on the the bumpy back roads and an occasional DE since this is a daily driver. I'm leaning toward the PSS10s because I've been buying Bilsteins since 1977 and have had good luck with them. But the PSS9s I put on a 993 C2 were a bit on the harsh side and the rear height adjustment required taking half the suspension apart to be able to turn the piece that the sway bar end link mounted to. Unless I was doing it wrong. It looks like the 996 version is the same design. That piece ought to be a sleeve that is sandwiched between two nuts. Are the PSS10s worth $600 more than the H&R coilovers and how do they compare for primarily street use? Or is there a better choice in the same $ range? If this solves the squat problem with 420hp, will it still work at 550? I am trying to get good quality replacement components cheap, like exhaust, bigger intercoolers, headers, mostly things that will work with the k16 system I have now and with future upgrades. Does anyone know if the 997 intercoolers are comparable in capacity to the 996 X50/GT2 intercoolers and reasonably easy to install. I know they are cheap and available. It seems that I've read somewhere that the 997 intercoolers have been adopted from the 911 Turbo (996) and optimized. In order to improve charge-air cooling, the ducts in the rear side sections of the body have been modified. By increasing the cross-section of each duct by approx. 10 % it has been possible to reduce flow resistance and to improve the air flow into the radiator cores. This results in more efficient intercooling for increased power and torque. So, they are the same size as which 996 intercooler? but with better heat removal due to improved convection? Does being adopted from the 996tt mean the plain tt or the GT2? And, if they are the larger ones (which is very likely considering the output of the 997) how difficult would they be to install on a 996? Is there anyone with that experience? Yea, I know, I really want intercoolers with metal ends. The seals on the output flanges of my front diff are leaking slightly. It took about 4 or 5 ounces of lube to fill it back up - I wasn't going to change out the fluid until I pull the flanges and replace seals when I do the front suspension. Is this a common problem? This is a job I am not looking forward to doing, but if I have to, I will do it and take pictures. What is the deal with these brakes (red, monoblock)? Stopping power has always been one of Porsche's fortes (forti?) but these leave a lot to be desired. The rotors are down to the limit and I need new pads - I'm sure that replacing rotors and pads will improve things but are these calipers up to the task? I had the pollen in the pollen filter carbon-dated and there is some there from 2001. I'm considering replacing the filter even if there are no holes in it. I'm glad I got a well-maintained car. Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom or sympathy. Mike

Chuck: Thanks for your kind words. If this were the first time I had bought a car long distance and been shafted, I would probably be incredulous, ranting and raving, and then writing letters to the guy describing what I planned to do to his wife and daughter in the middle of the night when he's not there. But, being experienced, I went right to the last part. Seriously, I allowed myself to be hurried by the guy, and after checking the VIN and seeing 450 bhp, I concluded that although it was sure to have some undisclosed and undiscovered problems, the package was well worth the money. But, that's all been negated, and I've got all the problems and no X50 to compensate. I will be starting a thread asking for advice on the best technique for using duct tape to hold down the curled up cf trim around the windshield. What color to use, etc.? Mike

Chuck: I am appealing to the guy to square it up with me. I'm looking for about $5k - enough to buy a pair of k24/18gs and larger intercoolers. It was originally listed on ebay as an X50, 450hp, 200mph that had recently had a major service - an oil change! And a clear title. A copy of the title was sent directly to my credit union and on that basis, they wrote a check to the guy. When I got the actual title a couple of days later I noticed that he wasn't listed on the title. I guess in Texas you can drive a car without title, registration or inspection. By the time I got the title, the check was already in his bank. Even though it wasn't bought through eBay, they may want to take some action against him for false advertising and for refusing to sell on ebay where it was listed. Mike PM me your VIN and I will have it looked up on Porsche's database. What's with that? You mean to say the database erroneously had your VIN listed as an X50 when in fact it was not? Did you have any reourse against the buyer to reduce the price to make up for the misadvertising? Chuck

Hummh. Do you mean that the VIN Decoder I used to verify that my car was an X50 (450 bhp), as advertised, was wrong and I don't really own an X50?

Thanks for the responses. Yes, I will only replace the oil and filters once this time. (I would put a smiley face here if I knew how to insert them.) Ditto for the other items. Since I don't have service records, I will assume they weren't done. Most are obvious and based on the items I can see, I'll presume that the oil filter, plugs, and other items on the PCNA maintenance list need to be done. It will be a relief to get rid of the clunking in the ceiling! Mike

I just purchased an '02 with 67kmi served with everything and blk/blk/cf. It is completely stock and original. I think it has all the original filters still on it. I plan to do the 15k, 30k, 45k and 60k maintenance on it this weekend. It will be a daily driver and may see 1-2 DEs per year (the Glen). It has 235/40s and 295/30 pilots. 1) It has the stock suspension and it is really stiff (uncomfortably) in the front. I understand that there are varying degrees of personal tolerance, but is this the general consensus? I wasn't planning to rush out and buy a new suspension but I need to do something (besides running 80-series tires). I read elsewhere in the forums that the PSS9/10s will provide the same or better level of control and can be adjusted to be more comfortable on the street. This wasn't my experience when I put PSS9s on my 993 - l took them off and mounted Bilstein Sports, reasonable Eibachs and RS anti-roll bars. Comments? 2) The carbon fiber trim has peeled off around the windshield and warped. Is there a replacement that is the same thickness as the original and an adhesive recommended? 3) Every time the front tires hit an expansion strip (see 1 above) there is an annoying rattle in the ceiling just behind the sunroof opening. I can move something between the headliner and the roof at that location but I can't make out its shape. I can make the clunk happen by tapping up on it. Before I open the sunroof for the first time (I'd like to weld it shut), is there a part that commonly separates itself from the rest of the mechanism and rattles around? Thanks, Mike