Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

bglz42

Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bglz42

  1. Thanks Papp_e! That solved it! Bought a new assembly from Pelican. I guess I was getting a false reading from my pressure gauge...
  2. I have been struggling for over a year with an issue with my 01 Boxster S Tip. Condensation under trunk lid over the coolant cap. I am on my 6th 04 cap. Never overheats. No water in oil or oil in water that I can detect. Level stays pretty consistent. Pressurized tank to 20psi for 24 hours. Pressure tested cap, pops at 20.5. Getting desperate, I left the pressure gauge on the car and started it. After it warmed I got 20psi, (which is enough to pop the cap valve apparently.) Again, the car does great even in Texas heat. It just vents through the cap... any ideas?
  3. Went to the dealer today. They pressure tested both the tank and the cap. No leaks. But on the way home, red light started blinking. No overheat but tons of condensation. I could hear air escaping. Applied soapy water again to bleeder valve. Again no bubbles... it is coming from the cap. Maybe the threads boogered? A slight crack on the neck?
  4. Could it be overfill? The coolant level was very high. I pulled fluid out to exactly the MAX mark and will test today. I don't appear to be losing coolant. Just lots of condensation.
  5. OK I went out and bought a tester. I could not get the cap tester attachment yet, but was able to test the tank. I applied 18lbs for 4.5 hours. No leak. I am going to order the cap tester... could all three caps I bought (Suncoast & Pelican) be faulty?
  6. I will buy both the tank tester and the cap tester.
  7. I will buy one. If nothing else, this car is filling my tool box! Lol!
  8. No I have not done that... are you thinking that it's leaking?
  9. I am still struggling to understand how this cooling system is supposed to work... If you read my original post, the symptoms are still the same. Condensation under the lid, and the bleeder valve extended when hot. Never overheats. Is this normal? I have: Bought another 04 cap, (Actually I am on my third cap, thought maybe I was getting bad ones...) Evacuated the system using an Airlift, held pressure just fine. Wrapped the filler neck in teflon tape. Just yesterday, I lost some coolant when I removed the cap. Car was cold, and had been sitting for a week. About a halfcup of fluid came out under pressure. (Probably overfilled slightly.) I cleaned up the mess, applied teflon tape to the neck and re-installed the latest cap. Ran it for about 15 miles, and pulled back into the barn. I could hear a very slight hiss. I squirted soapy water onto and around the bleeder valve to see if there was a leak, and saw no bubbling. The hiss appears to come from the cap itself venting. Is it supposed to vent off the extra pressure? The bleeder valve WAS extended. Temp normal. I am taking the car to Boxstoberfest in two weeks, and it will get wrung out pretty good. I am a little nervous about it...
  10. It did not appear to. I carefully inspected the cap. It looks good. I just took for a test drive. Still some condensation and a little wispy steam. The bleeder valve is fully extended. Temp normal. I am beginning to suspect the cap.
  11. I pulled a vacuum on it this morning with my airlift. No loss of pressure after 20 minutes.
  12. I rebuilt the bleeder valve earlier this year. I am going to pressure the tank up, and see what happens...
  13. I am still fighting this issue. Bought a UView. Vacuumed it and refilled it. Rebult the bleeder. 04 Cap. Never overheats but lots of condensation under the trunk lid. Drove it on the freeway for 100 miles in the heat yesterday. As I returned to my driveway the light started blinking. Temp normal. After cooled, I removed the cap. Lots of pressure and level came up a lot. Added about a quart of coolant. Not sure where to go from here...
  14. That was EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thanks!
  15. Air bubble? Several weeks ago, I incurred a self inflicted wound… after checking the fluid level in the coolant tank, I crossthreaded the cap (new 04 cap). Car did not overheat, but lost some coolant. After reading lots of posts on the subject, I added distilled water, (1/2 gallon), popped up the bleeder and performed the procedure outlined by Pelicanparts. Afterwards, started driving it around with bleeder open to release any air. So far so good. No overheat, no additional loss of coolant. My question revolves around the behavior of the coolant tank afterwards. After driving, I can smell antifreeze. Nothing on garage floor. When I pop the trunk, the underside of the compartment is very wet from condensate. (There was always a little, now a lot…) The bleeder valve is fully extended. When I let it cool down the bleed valve retracts, but there is a ton of pressure in the tank. When I unscrew the cap, I loose about a cup of fluid to the drain. The coolant is in good shape, looks good smells good. I plan on a full flush, along with trans service and plug change at my indie, but because of my schedule the appointment is a few weeks out. First: Is there an issue? Second: Is there a DIY fix without a full drain if there is an air bubble? I'd like to be able to use the car in the meanwhile... Thanks!!! Jim
  16. Thanks for all the help! It was the #2 plug. I have included a pic. I also changed #3 to get a look at the plug. It looked much better... Runs great now... no codes or misfires. Thanks again for your help!
  17. Still chasing that misfire! Must be the plug... I swapped the coil out for a new one last night, (just had a few spare minutes to work on the car...) Still misfiring on cyl 2. I checked all the rest of the cylinders, and they were fine. Just cylinder 2.. I intentionally did not pull the spark plug, becasue I am trying a systematic approach to eliminating the real problem. Tonight I will pull the plug and replace. When I isolate the problem, I will replace all of the coils and plugs. __________________
  18. P0300 & P0302 are back! I figured it would happen, so I had bought a new BERU coil. I will install it and report back. If it fixes it, I will order five more...plugs, too!
  19. My Durametric showed up early! Yay! Hooked it up last night, and you guys were RIGHT! The generic OBD II reader showed zero codes, (after clearing the P0302 last week), Durametric showed P0300 & P0302. Cleared everything, ran the car and checked again. No codes! Apparently a generic reader can't completely clear the code out, but Durametric can... Car is running geat now, BTW!
  20. Update: Durametric still en route, should arrive tomorrow... I drove the car all weekend, no problems at all. The fresh gas might have solved the issue...
  21. Silver_TT, thanks for all your help! The Durametric is on the way, but has not yet arrived. I have not pulled the #2 coil to inspect. Another data point: I had to move the car to another spot in the barn, so started it. Was low on fuel, so decided that (if CEL stays off) to go buy fresh fuel. Trying to eliminate all variables. On driveway, CEL came on. Stopped and cleared. Once temp came up, no CEL. Fresh fuel, drove a ten mile loop back to the house and the car ran great! No codes showing on generic OBD II. I have read a couple of reports of old, delaminated coils absorbing moisture. (I live on the Texas Gulf Coast, over 90% humidity). After heating up, and boiling out the moisture, the misfires cease. Could be my issue?
  22. Thanks Silver_TT! I have the Durametric on order, should be here by the weekend... I appreciate all the help! I am planning on changing the coils/plugs. Curious to see what the Durametric shows... This is not my first Porsche, but it is the oldest I've owned...(Fit my retirement plans, LOL!) A fun adventure so far!
  23. Thanks guys!! I will order a Durametric today. The car came with records, but not as good as I would have kept them. Some gaps. But the car was so perfect, and maintained by a local (Porsche of North Houston) dealership that I could not pass it up. I agree with this statement also, " I would agree with JFP that usually when you've just done something and then get a code, I always go back to what I was working on.". I doublechecked the sensor installation, torqued correctly and unplugged/plugged. Everything looked good. I think I will start at the beginning... First the Durametric... Check air filter Check connections at MAF Check coil connections Check O2 sensor connections
  24. Thanks for your replies! I don't know when the plugs/coils were last changed. I bought the car just a few weeks ago. I am trying to baseline everything. I was using a generic OBD II reader. Sorry, the first code was P0153. Happened about 150 miles after the air filter change. Used Mann filter. Besides an oil change and the air filter change, I haven't messed with anything else. Until the O2 sensors. Any idea why one would be reddish?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.