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prsch1

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Everything posted by prsch1

  1. Just as an update, I ventured on removing the door panel and replacing the passenger side Door Lock Mechanism. Thankfully, the passenger Door Lock Mechanism I bought now enables me to lock the passenger side door when I use the manual key lock on the drivers side (unlike before). Yet, three issues remain: 1. I am still not able to close the doors with the central locking button on the dash. 2. The driver's side door can only be locked and unlocked using the manual key and does not respond to the key remote control. If I use the key remote the passenger door and fuel door actuator locks momentarily and unlocks right up again (makes me think that the driver's side lock is keeping them from locking). If I first lock the driver's side door with the manual key lock, both driver's and passenger lock with some buzzing from the fuel door actuator. But when I use the key remote to unlock the doors, the passenger's side door unlocks (without any issue) but the driver's door stay locked (and can only be unlocked by using the manual key). Does this also suggest a defective driver's side Door Lock Mechanism? 3. Also, when I use the passenger side outside door handle, the window drops only slightly (and not fully - not enough to clear the roof top seal when closing the door) so windows bangs against the roof top seal) afraid it might break the window glass. Does this suggest a defective micro switch inside Door Lock Mechanism? (the driver's side windows drops down smoothly as it should). When I lock the doors, there is buzzing sound at the fuel door actuator. I looked into the fuel door actuator when I lock the doors - the fuel door pin actuates normally (through the hole) but then retracts back immediately (if I do not first lock the driver's door with the manual key lock). If I first lock the driver's door with the manual key, the fuel door pin actuates but immediately retracts back. Yet, in both instances, there is a buzzing sound when it actuates (it is not binding - it just looks like it is making the buzzing sound because it wants to actuate further more but is not able - does this sound like a defective fuel door actuator?). Thank you so much in advance for all your help.
  2. I have been reading up on the door lock issue and wanted to request assistance. Car is a '98 Boxster with M535 option that experienced the water under seat occurrence. Replaced alarm control unit. Main issue is that the key remote control does not lock and unlock both doors. Also, the dash central lock button is not working. The driver's door can be locked using the key but even when locking the driver's door with the key, the passenger door remains unlocked. The remote is however able to open the rear trunk and the red LED on dash blinks when the remote is pressed. So it appears that the key remote is able to send signals. Curiously, when the key remote control is pressed, the gas cap door pin actuates to lock but almost immediately retracts (and the gas cap actuator makes a buzzing sound in the process) so gas cap door is also always unlocked (even when manually locking the driver's door with the key, you hear a buzzing sound from the gas cap door actuator, and the gas cap door remains unlocked). The windows drop down a few inches when the outside and inside door handles are used. Even with the emergency three times manual turn of the key on the driver's door, the passenger door remains unlocked. Durametric shows the following alarm faults: 46: Control locking synchronization Status: present Occurance Counter: 1 10: Voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active Status: not present Occurance Counter: 1 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 47: Control locking synchronization Status: not present Occurance Counter: 13 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 25: W lead Status: not present Occurance Counter: 1 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 21: W lead (DME immobilizer) Status: not present Occurance Counter: 1 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 33: Interior sensor faulty Status: not present Occurance Counter: 14 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 23: W lead Status: not present Occurance Counter: 31 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. Thank you so much in advance for all your help.
  3. hello, problems with key remote locking and unlocking door. 1998 boxster (base). replaced alarm control unit (M535) from same year (1998) donor car with 2 key remote control heads. key remote does not lock/unlock with key remote, but key remote opens/actuates gas cap door. no ability to lock door with console door lock button too. tried both remotes but does not work. tried most, if not all, solutions found on board or elsewhere, including (thanks to all who contributed the ff:) but none have worked yet. a) putting key into the driver's door and turning to the right while pressing the alarm/lock button on the remote. B) switch ignition on, switch ignition off, remove key from ignition switch, within 6 seconds, operate remote. c) unlock drivers door (if its not locked lock then unlock drivers door) put key in ignition and turn to the "on" position within 10sec of unlocking door... d) take battery out of remote, wait 10 seconds, put the battery of remote backwards (reverse polarity), take remote battery out, and install correctly. e) Insert the key into the ignition lock and turn the ignition on. Then press the remote button until the blinking frequency rate of the central locking switch in the dashboard changes. Remove the key from the ignition lock and test function. f) unlock by key, open the door and press button 1" please help. thanks in advance.
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