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Speedobird

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Everything posted by Speedobird

  1. Speedobird
    Hello Does anyone know of a reputable shop that sells new leather covering for Porsches? I would like to refurbish the seats on my 996 (MY99). I tried recoloring the worn part with a custom dye but it started to crack again after 3 years. It probably needs new covers (for Xmas project). Also if anyone knows the name or color code of the tannish seat I would be grateful. Thank you in advance,
  2. Speedobird
    Awsome! I too was thinking to repaint the caliper. Could you tell me how the caliper paint from Tirerack (I think?) is holding and where you got the decal?
  3. Speedobird
    Rear Wheel Bearing R&R for MY99 996 Some of you may be curious how well Sir Tools B90 works for rear wheel bearing removal and installation. Here are some pictures and comments. Although I bought the full Porsche kit, I didn't have to use the horseshoe piece. 1. Here are the picture of B90, new bearings and hub nuts. The new hub nuts use two-piece design instead of one. Sunset Porsche offered the best price for bearings. 2. First, remove the hub nut. I used a breaker bar plus homemade pipe extension. I have actually placed a j Author Speedobird Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 07/22/2010 01:12 PM Updated 12/17/2012 11:06 AM
  4. Speedobird
    Some of you may be curious how well Sir Tools B90 works for rear wheel bearing removal and installation. Here are some pictures and comments. Although I bought the full Porsche kit, I didn't have to use the horseshoe piece. 1. Here are the picture of B90, new bearings and hub nuts. The new hub nuts use two-piece design instead of one. Sunset Porsche offered the best price for bearings. 2. First, remove the hub nut. I used a breaker bar plus homemade pipe extension. I have actually placed a jack under the disk to providebetter support but this picture does not show one (I forgot to take that picture). For reinstallation, hub nut torque is 460 Nm (340 ft-lb). 3. Remove two 10 mm hex bit bolts holding the disk brake caliper to the housing (85 Nm or63 ft-lb for reinstallation). Push back the brake pads first to provide some room for caliper removal. Suspend the caliper by a wire etcso you don't put any stress on hydraulic lines. 4. Remove4 bolts holding brake cover plates (10 Nm or 7.5 ft-lb for reinstallation). Press the drive axle out of the hub. I actually used a large gear puller. And the hub came off while doing this. 5. Disconnect drive shaft flange at transmission. A ball-tip hex bit socket (shown) makes iteasier to remove the six 8mm hex bit bolts (81 Nm or 60 ft-lb for reinstallation) holding the drive shaft flange to the transmission. 6. Disconnect the spring strut from hub hosing (100 Nm or 74 ft-lb for reinstallation) to clear space so you can slip the driveshaft out of hub housing. I also used a second jack to lift the hub housing so the shaft can be positioned to slip out. For reinstallation of strut,you also need to place a second jack under the strut to bring the bolt holes close to alignment. I used a couple of large flat-tip screw drivers to make the fine adjustment to fit the bolt. Be patient in this step. 7. (not shown but) Remove 4 bolts (37 Nm or 27 ft-lb for reinstallation) holding the bearing retainer plate and set up B90 tool. I used a large collar and fitting disk outside and small disk to catch the bearing from inside. For installation of the retainer plate, make sure that the groove is positioned at bottom. Here is the unit removed. The big collar (tubular) piece was just in front of the bearing but missing in the picture. 8. Installation is the reverse of above. Just make sure that the bearing retainer plate is installed before pressing the hub unit back in.
  5. Speedobird
    Ok. I overcame fear of touching drive shaft. Disconnected at the flange, lifted the hub with second jack and played with the space allowed. It came off reasonably easy. I did find it useful to have 8 mm ball-tip hexa bit socket as the space was limited. I'll post the pictures later. Thanks!
  6. Speedobird
    I'm stuck and need a guidance I'm replacing rear wheel bearing with Sir Tool bearing kit. Now wheel hub came off easy. But I'm trying to figure out if I can move the drive shaft out of the way to use the sir tool without disassembling the hub housing from the car. Does anyone know how this should be done correctly? Thank you very much in advance.
  7. Speedobird
    Thanks PTEC. I read that you have to release the cable in the center console for the parking brake mechanism. Is there more to it that you know?
  8. Speedobird
    The hours for R&R sounds about similar to what I spent on the front bearings. May be it is not much different after all. Thank you very much.
  9. Speedobird
    Hi, Does anyone have experience working with the rear wheel bearings on 996? I would much appreciate any insight that I can get before jumping into this project. I have just replaced the front wheel bearings that were causing grinding noise (much like road noise). Now it is much better but I still hear some from the rear. This leads me to think that I need to replace the rear wheel bearings (I've also been annoyed by occasional "clunking" noise too). According to the official service manual, the procedure seems similar except that it now talks about hub extractor with a big circular plate with five bolts that go into the rug nut holes on the disc/hub. It also talks about drive shaft removal etc. which I didn't have to deal with before. Because I had a very challenging front wheel bearings I'm getting a bit apprehensive. Appreciate any experience you can share with me. Thank you in advance,
  10. Speedobird
    Never thought about it. Does it make a noise similar to road noise? . I probably should check them out as it is coming close to 60K miles. Will report back when I get to it. Thank you very much.
  11. Speedobird
    Thanks for your suggestion. I thought I posted in 996 forum but I guess not.
  12. Speedobird
    Hi - I'm looking for a consensus on how best to reduce the road noise coming into the cab. I searched under this topic and got fragmented answers. So here are a few questions if you will: 1. Is there something that can be done to shock towers or their base to reduce road noise transmitted through structure? 2. If we go with viscoelastic material like Dynamat, what would be the most effective areas to place this material? 3. Is there any other thoughts on how to reduce the road noise besides buying a quieter tires? Hope someone has experience in this that they could share. Thank you very much in advance, :renntech:
  13. Speedobird
    I had the same issue with code 1130, after I blew the air box I guess the MAF got dirty. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and Kaboom cel gone. Try it!!!! Hi Bruce - I saw somewhere in the forum that we have to be careful in selecting which cleaner to use because some MAFs have coating inside. Can you tell us which cleaner you used for this? Thanks,
  14. Speedobird
    So happens I had a heat gun from repairing ski boots. The film needed to be warmed up to the point where it is almost too hot to touch. Then, it became easier to peel off. I buffed out the gummy stuff from adhesive residue with paint cleaner, polish and wax using electric buffer. The result looks fantastic! You saved my weekend. Thanks, Loren :thumbup:
  15. Speedobird
    My 996 came with a clear vinyl film on parts of the body (tip of front fenders, lower bumper, headlight etc.) to prevent paint chipping. I think it's non-OEM but I'm wondering if anyone has experience removing these and cleaning up the gunk that's left behind. Appreciate any comments.
  16. Speedobird
    Actually, I was looking for a decorative tail on my 99 996 but this caught my eyes. I had to write into this stream to share. If you are interested in how auto makers develop aerodynamic design, please read on: Road Adhesion: The rear spoiler reduces (spoils) the lift created by upper half of the body compared to lower half (under carriage), hence increasing the pressure/lift differential between the two and creates downward force. This increases road adhesion in conjunction with so called ground effect, which is a suction created by the tunnel effect between the road and undercarriage. Drag control: As for the drag, this is a high speed phenomena. For most of us, it probably does not have significant impact because, of all drag components including road drag, mechanical drag and aerodynamic drag, aerodynamic drag should be the smallest in magnitude. But there is a need to control the source of aerodynamic drag, wake. Wake behavior behind the body determines aerodynamic performance. Smaller wake cross sectional area is desirable because, simply put, the body is more streamlined that way. (static pressure differential between two cross sections just in front of the car and behind determines momentum loss in air flow. This translates into aerodynamic drag.) Although I haven't seen this particular simulation or wind tunnel results, structure like this could be installed to "control" the flow structure. By disrupting the flow, wake becomes more manageable or predictable, like vortex generators on airplane wings. Spoiler controls the size of wake and ensures that it does not behave erratically like wild oscillation at certain speed and angle of attack, which leads to, Stability: Auto makers, particularly Europeans, are concerned with aerodynamic stability in addition to drag and lift. The flow disruption by the spoiler makes the wake behave more regularly without wild oscillation at some high speed. Wake, although not visible, acts on the body just like when you have a strong cross-wind on high way. This becomes more pronounced at higher speed. Auto makers usually measures this by placing car body in a wind tunnel at an angle to measure torsional force. Like I said earlier, if you know of good tail to install, please let me know. Cheers,
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