goldenwarrior1

I am changing mu AOS and Coolant Reservior this weekend. I have read the great DIY threads here, but I can't seem to find the tool everyone says not to do these jobs without.

Can anyone direct me to an auto parts store that caries these or to a website that I can order one?

Thank you as always.

Mark

Try your local Sears store or Google online. Tons of places to buy.

R/

So it's metric. I'd bet it's hectopascals. Out here in Ohio it's 40 and dropping fast with snow on its way. I just ran here for 45 min. At 4000 RPM it's at 4.5 to 5 bars. Soild doesn't move. Is this normal? It runs smooth and tight. The dealer seems like it's normal??? E

BAR is a unit of pressure equal to 100 kilopascals B)

I believe differential fluid change is part of the 90K mile service. Unlikely changing the fluid will make any noticeable difference to the driver assuming normal wear of the differential.

The 911 Carrera 4 is a four-wheel-drive system with a viscous multiple-plate clutch, the front wheels consistently convey a minimum of 5 per cent and, if required, a maximum of 40 per cent of the engine's drive power to the road. The viscous multiple-plate clutch is housed in the front axle drive unit, conveying drive power to the front axle and compensating for any difference in engine speed between the two axles. Like a multiple-plate lock, the clutch is made up of inner plates fastened to the hub and outer plates connected to the housing. Silicon fluid comes between the plates in a totally sealed compartment. As soon as there is a difference in speed, shear forces between the silicon fluid and the plates transmit torque and drive power to the front axle as required.

B)

Something to consider in the analysis are brakes and tires. Both are big ticket items and could quickly erase the 3K difference... Just my 2 cents worth!

I agree option number 3 because of a year newer and because it has 10K less miles. Its worth the extra coin

Hi All,

I am trying to decide on which car to purchase and here are my options

1. 2002 Targa, 60k miles, 2 owner care, purchase through dealer with CPO coverage. Nicely optioned $30,000.

2. 2002 Targa, 40k miles, private party sale, 2 owner car (present owner 5 years), all service records, agreed to allow a PPI. Nicely optioned and in great shape. $29,000.

3. 2003 Traga, 30k miles, independent dealer (have taken my other cars to them and trust them) 1 owner car, fully serviced and 30 day warranty. Nicely optioned and really like the color. $32,000.

Prices are bottom line firm. So my dilemma is which car should I go with?

Thanks

Option 3 looks like the best value to me and you seem to favor the color ! Go fot it! B)

Glad to see you didn't have any damage! My garage door opener hangs right above my C4S and the thought the opener could fall has occurred to me numerous times. Imagine if you had a coupe parked in there... New paint for sure! I think I will stop being lazy and start using the cover.

Thanks!

:cheers:

You can order from the dealer at full cost or find them on eBay. Once you see how many and the cost posted on eBay you will see why someone kept yours. Good luck and enjoy your new Porsche!

R/

You are right, the damage is not stone chips but is the clear coat lifting from the base coat. This can be caused by either some contaminate left under the paint during the original painting of the car or if it was refinished at sometime. It can also be caused by a corrosive environment such as acid rain or chemical fallout near you or during the life of the car.

R/Tom

There is normally some pressure remainging on a fuel injected system unless you haven't run the car for some time. See link for DIY.

Cheers, GW B)

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace...uel_Filter.html

Hi,

Looking for 18 or 19" wheels fo my ride

My budget is approx $1000 for a set.

Any recommendations where to buy

Thanks!

You should tell us what your "ride" is! :huh:

Thought I would share this with the forum in the off chance someone else may experience the same problem. A few months ago I began getting random P0430 codes combined with a rattling sound at idle on my 02 C4S. The rattling noise varied and at times would completely disappear with no discernable pattern or frequency. Sometimes the P code would pop in 15-20 miles and at other times it would go for 100-150 miles before popping. I suspected the ceramic inside one of the cats had broken loose but didn’t want to pull the cats until I had a replacement to verify. I monitored the system with my Durametric software and I definitely had low efficiency on Bank 2. So, with the cost of a new cat at over $1200.00 I patiently began searching for a low mileage cat.

I found a great deal on a complete exhaust system from a 05 C4S that the owner had pulled with less than 1K miles to install an aftermarket system. I replaced everything this past weekend and both the code and the rattle are gone. When I shake the bank 2 cat you can hear the ceramic insert moving around. I haven’t driven the car enough to see if the code returns but based on what I found I am very confident the problem is resolved. Thanks to Loren for all the help and info during the process.

:renntech:

Helooooooooo....??!!!

This forum has potential. But very little usage. I am a member of the BMW R 1200 GS website/forum. Those people know how to communicate!! I've gotten a ton of info through that site. Really good stuff on motorcycle maintenance and performance improvement. But.......this site is weak. I would think we porsche owners are just as passionate as the BMW motorcycle owners if not more.

Anyway.......

I changed the oil and filter today on my 997-2 CS. About $200.00 total. Pompano Beach, FL. A bit steep. ($135.00 hr. on service chargees for labor). Glad I did it. 3,700 miles. I'll change it again at the reccomended interval of 10,000 mi. And from then on every 5,000 miles. Went with 0 W 40 Mobil One. BTW there was an open service campaign on the exhaust system supports. The Service tech could not tell me if it was noise or loose-****ty mounts. Maybe it is noise due to ****ty mounts. I dunno.....

They overfilled the oil as indicated on the oiil measurement function. At least it's clean.

BIG NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!,,,,,, while waiting I spoke to two salespersons and they told me Porsche is offering a $10,000 cash back to dealerships and that they are discounting all their '09 911's an additional $10,000!!!! that's $20,000 off all of their '09 997-2's. that means you can get any '09 997-2 for $20,000 off of sticker for now!!!!! If any prospective buyer reads this,,,,,,,,,,NOW IS THE TIME TO GET OFF YOUR ***!!!!!!!!

I confirmed this discount with a call to another local dealership.

You all Keep it out of the trees!!!!!!! :o

What was the original question in your topic? Sometimes, when the subject of the topic is fairly common, like oil change intervals, a search will bring up a wealth of info covered in past posts. Cheers.

That's the great thing about this country, if you dont like somthing you have the freedom of going somewhere else.....

looking ahead to my first winter with my 07 987s and I know I should store it with clean oil and over inflate the tires a bit and plug in the battery and use a fuel stabilizer with a full tank of gas. I called my dealer to inquire how much they charge for just an oil change $225 which did not seem bad considering the parts would cost $100 as a DIY (which I have no experience with) but the service guy also said I should change the brake fluid as well before storage... is this necessary?

thanks for the thoughts

Dan

Dan,

I would reccomend that instead of storing your vehicle you find a few nice days each month and drive your car. Much better for the machine than sitting for extended periods of time. These cars were meant to be driven! I know that isn't the question you asked but just my 2 cents worth. And in response to your question, it is an unnecesary expense to change your brake fluid on an MY07.

R/Tom

Nitrogen is less likely to leak but unless you have to valve stems you'll never get pure nitrogen in the tire. Nitrogen is plentiful in the ambient atmosphere - about 78 percent.

So you don't have to evacuate the nitrogen to add air. Unless you suck out the air while feeding pure nitrogen.

Edit: And as far as pressures go the recommended values are good. For a little crisper turn-in I fudge the difference front to rear so they are at least a couple of lbs closer to each other.

Tracking the car is a good way to set pressure bias if you make incremental changes and note the effect.

See Consumer Reports article. The only substantial benefit I can see is if you are the guy selling it...

http://blogs.consumerreports.org/cars/2007...-nitrogen-.html

I too have a new engine in my 1999 996 C4 and have experienced what appears to be high temps even after normal freeway driving in cool (65F) weather. The engine temp rises above the “180” mark with A/C on in warm (80’s) weather and the warning light starts flashing. The gage can almost gets to the next mark (what ever temp that is) in hot (90’s) weather. I also notice that the engine compartment fan consistently runs for a few minutes after shut down. The old engine never did that. In an earlier thread I was advised to clear the radiator and then if needed, replace the thermostat. I’ve cleared a few bits of debris (with the bumper still on) and viewed the back area with a bore scope; mostly clear, just a couple of leaves still stuck in the far back. I plan to take the radiator off when I have more time.

I admit to being hypersensitive as I've already had one major failure with the new engine; oil in the coolant. The oil cooler had to be replaced and the cooling system repeatedly flushed to remove the oil. It is thought the thermostat may be faulty due to residual oil contamination thus causing the flashing light. The car was at the dealer for almost two weeks while they repeatedly flushed out the oil. Also the coolant tank had to be replaced as they were not sure they could get all the oil out of it.

I’ve got a trip planned for the weekend after next and will plug in my laptop and track temps et al with Durametric software, with my wife recoding the data. That may help understand what all is going on.

\Bob

Sound familiar, I too had similiar situation.

I was going to suggest that you change your coolant tank + hose's but you've already done that? So I would maybe give the radiators a major clean out (bumper off job) aslo try replacing the thermostat. I have been using RedLine Water Wetter you can also mix this with your porsche coolant to help stop any hot spots forming in the engine. I find it wont harm the motor it's just some extra protection.

Best of luck with this, keep us informed.

This has been covered here before but thought I would share the pics of my recent radiator cleaning. I sprayed the coils down with an aluminum clearner and was amazed at the grime flushed out... Made a definite difference in my 02 C4S.

I just use a guards red touch up stick from Porsche

never had an issue with it not being high temp paint !

Thanks David! I'll give it a try.

Need to touch up the red paint one of my calipers on my 2002 C4S. Has anyone found a aftermarket high temp paint that matches perfectly?

Thanks!

I have been using Red Line 5W40 for the last 3 years and 30,000 miles. Yearly oil changes. Very pleased with product. And my oil analysis last year look excellent.

I am sure this thread could go on forever because there are as many opinions out there as there are oils! There is considerable evidence that ZDDP is harmful to catalytic converters and can significantly shorten their life span. ZDDP IS important in older engines where hardened metals were not used in the engineering process but engines produced in the last few years have addressed this change to meet new EPA laws.

I have been using both Mobil 1 and AMSOIL for over 15 years and have nothing but exceptional results to report. My 2002 C4S has close to 90K, all on M1, and my Honda Civic is just over 150K on M1. I use AMSOIL in my 3 trucks and my Toyota Highlander and they run like new. I tend to stick with what works over time. Bottom line, if you like it and believe in a product then by all means use it!

R/

B)

I don't intend to start the "oil wars" discussions up again, but could not find out much on Red Line oil using the search engine.

I've just changed over to Red Line from M1. Anyone have positive or negative thoughts on this?

In my opinion, since you asked, is why spend more money for a product not approved by Porsche yet provides no more protection than Mobil 1. Many may argue a point for one product over another but I doubt there is little difference for the average user between ANY high performance syn motor oil. The major difference between the oils is not the product base but the additives used in their particular blend. Here is where in my opinion you could have issues develop over time. Porsche has tested their engines under extreme operating conditions and know that no adverse effects are caused by the Mobil 1 oil products. However, a lot of P-car owners use a number of different products for years, swear by them, and never have issues... Bottom line, use a top quality oil, change it regularly and you most likely will not have an issue. BUT don't complain if it fails due to the product.

Regards

Hi

I just put up a Porsche page on Cardomain.com and see that there are about 2350 Porsche pages there with the most being 944 (778) and 911 (736)

I was wondering how many RennTech members also have a page on Cardomain ?

Regards

Sigfus

Awesome video, who is the score by?

If there is anyone in or around Toronto, that has a Durametric setup or PIWIS, that could reset my service indicator it would be much appreciated. I did my own poil change and the dealership - Downtown Porsche wants money to reset my indicator, they won't do me a favor. If anyone could help me out if would be much appreciated.

Thanks...

Yosi

Yosi, Just my 2 cents here but the investment in the Durametric is worth every penny. If you plan on owning your P-car for any length of time you will more than get your moneys worth out of the software. I own it and a Generic OBD-II/CAN tester and use them quite often.

Good morning!!

What should be the expected life of a clutch on a '09 911S coupe be? Moderate usage and no tire squealing.

Thanks!

Depending on your driving style - 20,000 to 150,000 miles.

I have never had to replace the clutch in any of my Porsche's which includes track events and autocross uses.

I have 82K on the original clutch and it runs perfectly. Just spent the last weekend at the beach in 98 degree summer heat, stop and go traffic for two hours and no issues! A lot of it depends on your driving habits. It is a friction disk so the more friction you apply the shorter the life...

Different engine, different headers, different mufflers = different cats.

Thanks Loren. I'll keep looking :cheers:

Does anyone know what the difference between the GT3 cats and the regular 996 cats is? Are they interchangeable? By the photos they look the same!

My 04 C4S has leather-wrapped three spoke color crested steering wheel.

My 02 C4S has option M346 which list as "three spoke leather steering wheel" It has the colored crest.