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About goldenwarrior1

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche 911 C4S
    2012 E350
    2000 Silverado
    1923 Chevrolet

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  1. I had this exact same problem a few months ago. Replaced the switch and it has been working perfectly ever since.
  2. Dude.... I am speachless! Sorry to hear of your misfortunes but WOW!!...... YGBFSM!
  3. Did you disconnect the battery before removing the cluster? If not, then it is possible you damaged some of the internal electronics.
  4. Not sure but you posted in the Cayenne Forum. I know other folks have made 996-997 front end swaps but it takes a lot more than the bumper. Do some search and you some find some threads.
  5. Very unlikely as the speed sensor is in the wheel hub on the back side and well protected. You could however damage the connector if not carefull. If you look on the back side of the hub you will see where the wheel speed sensor is installed and then follow the wire back to the connector.
  6. Thanks Loren, kind of my thought and I hate to take a chance for that kind of money. I suspect it might but but not worth taking the risk... Thanks, Tom
  7. I have a 2002 C4S that has an instrument cluster that the speedo and tach quit working. I scanned the cluster with my Durametric and it has no codes. My question is; Does anyone know if the cluster from a 2002 GT2 will work? PN 996.641.984.53.70C It has the same color plugs on the back (Green, Blue, Grey) and does not have any boost guages. By all apearances it looks exactly like mine. The dealer doesn't have a cross reference that will tell them whether it will work or not. Hoping some experienced folks here may know. Thanks, Tom
  8. You can get a new upgraded one from Suncoast Porsche for $22.69 http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99665210210AND.html?Category_Code=POTE996CM
  9. Holding down the clutch is only applicable to manually bleeding the system. With the pedal down, pressure is held against the system and forces out a small amount of fluid/air with each compression. Holding the bleed valve open too long or allowing the pedal to retreat will draw air into the system. If using a pressure bleeder you simply use the tool to maintain the pressure. Pressure bleeding is better as it provides a better flush of the system in short order. And you will need to keep an eye on the reservoir to ensure you don't suck huge amounts of air into the system and have to start over.
  10. Sounds like logray may been on to somthing. The speed sensor is right next to the brake wear sensor and damaging it or causing a bad connection by disturbing it would definitely cause an ABS light and would likely affect the cruise control as well. I would pull of the last side that you did and closely inspect the connectors. If you have a multimeter you can wring out the wires to ensure you have good continuity. If I remember correctly the two plugs look identical but have different mating tangs. You can also ohm out your brake sensors which should indicate a complete circuit. If open then you have a bad brake wear sensor but agin, it will not interfere with the ABS. Hope this helps and post back if you make any progress. R/Tom
  11. Agree with Orient Express. I clean off the backs and spray with 3m super adhesive and re-install. Works perfect and I am on my 3rd set of pads.
  12. FWIW, on the last brake job I did I started getting the ABS light after the brake pad change. It didn’t come on immediately but after a few minutes of driving it would pop. Although the wear pad sensor looked fine and had no damage it was bad. I replaced it and have no problems for the last 10 months. Not sure why it appears with the light switch but to my knowledge and looking at the lighting schematics I can see no tie in with the ABS or PASM system
  13. Invest in the Durametric software, it will read every fault code in all your car systems. Best investment in 911 tools I have made and has helped me solve several issues I have had over the last few years.
  14. I guess I am the exception. My car just passed 96K (45K on Porsche Warranty replacement motor in 2006 because of IMS failure) and uses absolutely no oil between oil changes. I target about 7500 miles between oil service and have never added oil other than the oil change. Motor is tight and not even any slight weeping on any seals. Recently replaced the clutch and the IMS was as dry as the day it was installed. Guess I am one of the fortunate ones.
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