goldenwarrior1

FWIW when I needed to replace the cats on my 02 C4S which is a 3.6, I found a complete take off exhaust from a 3.4 that was removed when the car was new. I figured I might as well put the entire system on as it was basically brand new. When I took it out for a drive you could definitely feel the difference. The engine ran smooth but had a noticeable lack of power. I attribute this to the more restrictive exhaust passage in the 3.4 can. I put a new set of 3.6 cans on and it was back to normal.

Tom

Loren will probably chime in here but I believe your DME needs to be programmed with a PIWIS to enter your VIN into the immobilizer. Without that it will never start.

Never used MH to remove paint. I thought it was primarily an antifreeze. I have used the Lacquer for years and it works quite well. So good in fact that you dare not use it to "clean" paint or youy will have a quick mess...

If the car was running fine before you disturbed it then you have left something disconnected or inadvertently pulled something apart. I would retrace all my steps and look carefully inspect every connector ensuring nothing was cut, broken, pinched etc. I suspect you will find your problem.

Simply push on the release tab and pull off.. Quite simple actually!

Lacquer Thinner should remove the paint will a little effort and will not hurt the chrome. I would very carefully tape off all the surrounding paint as the stuff is very quick in breaking down paint. The other and best way would be to carefully remove the trim pieces and then remove the paint. This would ensure a very clean job and no risk of paint damage to the car.

Tom

Since 1991, I've had exactly 2 speeding tickets. We won't go into how many tickets I've deserved, but suffice to say that most of my miles have been driven blissfully free of any radar detector. In my experience, a radar detector just gives a false sense of security. You're better off using your wits and common sense (i.e., if you feel like you're driving too **** fast, you probably are.) But if it makes you feel better, use one.

Agreed! One speeding ticket in 36 years of driving! Never owned a detector and never will!

Keep in mind that especially high end cars have significantly diminished value because of a collision. Most Porsche buyers will not even consider buying if even in a fender bender. So unless you get a substantial discount of at least 50-60 percent of the value I wouldn't touch it. Just my .02 worth...

If the new clutch shudders I would have to question if the flywheel surface is uneven or needs replaced. Your kit came with new pressure plate, disk and TOB so nothing left but the flywheel. Just my guess here but with the added pressure of the stage 2 pressure plate I would think any irregularities of the flywheel would be magnified. And, as far as I know, it is not recommended to resurface the dual mass FW. It may smooth out with use but based on my experience I doubt it. Not what you want to hear but I would guess the clutch will have to be pulled back out to inspect and repair and needed...

Where did you get the original motor number? The current engine S/N is not a reman number. Also, what do you mean by "label"? My car had the engine replaced under warranty and nothing was changed except the number which is stamped on the engine case.

As long as the ignition is off you are fine. I would clean the plenum good with throttle body cleaner while you have the old one off. Do not use other cleaners as they are too harsh. The job is pretty straight forward.

Good luck, Tom

You read out shows a MIL OFF meaning no codes are present. Not sure about New Jersey Emissions but with the readings you are showing, it should be no problem. They most likely will use a sniff test on the tail pipe and if no MIL light is set it will pass.

I'm not a California resident but from my understanding any DTC Flag set by the ECU is grounds for a failure in Cali. As JFP stated, we need your codes to assist but from what you stated it is part of the Evaporative Emissions system which is a definite failure.

Just my 2 cents here but... if they don't recognize your vehicle for what it is then it probably doesn't matter anyway... For me, I could care less if someone knows what I drive, its for me not them!

New engine from Porsche with warranty is a good thing. Not sure why the RMS has "been replaced?" The new engine came with a new RMS, did they have to repalce that one. All in all sounds like a great option for a car to buy. You should still have a PPI done for any other problems.

You beat me to it :notworthy:

Why would RMS be replaced if it was a new engine only 2 months old? As for your question, my 02 C4S had the engine replaced in 2006 by Porsche with about 65 K miles. It now has 95K miles and no issues whatsoever. If it is a Porsche Reman it has the revised IMS bearing which appears to be doing well however, it is a machine and therefore nothing is absolute.

If you don't have a stethoscope take a very long screw driver and place it lightly on each rotating pulley and then placing your ear to the handle of the screw driver while it is running . You will be able to tell immediately which one is making the noise as the sound will travel up the screwdriver. My guess from listening to the video is the water pump or perhaps the a/c compressor bearings. Not much else left.

Which is why I chuckle to myself when I see guys Indiscriminately throw performance parts at a car and then are convinced they have HP gains becuase it "feels" better or "sounds" better. I'm sure that's how the pro's do it... ;)

Ah Ha! I have a Dewalt 18v battery impact that is awesome, very durable and battery has lasted for over 3 years! If you are going to use it on your wheels be careful when you back the lugs out as the spinning socket will mar your wheels in a heartbeat. I use an impact on all my cars except the Porsche for this very reason. If you already have 18V Dewalt items you can buy just the Wrench for about $100.00. I've bee. buying tools for over 35 years and I firmly believe you get what you pay for so I stay away from the no-name chinese imports.

Cheers, Tom

Dewalt Impact Wrench

JMHO but you would be better served spending your money on a good quality set of sockets and wrenches. Too many tight spaces to use an impact wrench plus you most likely will wring off a few fasteners. I have both pneumatic wrenches and impact guns and rarely use them on the Porsche.

Anytime you have a noise in the belt drive train first elimination process is to remove the belt and check each pulley, idler etc for play, noise or rough bearing feel. Your mechanic most likely knows this but the A/C clutch is a much bigger fish! Just my .02 worth!

Once a year for me, makes a huge difference!

Ditto, big difference!

Don't understand you comment "flush the system"... If you had a new engine installed then the oil is new as well. It is a self contained system and no debris from the old engine could contaminate the new engine. If you are hearing a loud "knock" then I would say its unlikely its in the top end and more likely in the bottom end. Could be a rod bearing, piston slap etc. Sounds like you need to find a different mechanic!

Just my 2 cents here.... Your pads look like they have enough left for daily driving for a few more months but no way would I go to a DE event without healthy brakes. The track will put a lot of heat stress on those thin pads and worn rotors! Replace them with new parts, bed them in properly and enjoy your track day with peace of mind knowing you and your car are safe.

Regards, Tom

This is just my opinion but if you are going to have the car apart I think it is foolish to not replace the bearing. I have an 02 C4S and the motor was replaced under Porsche warranty at about 45K because of a failed IMS bearing... I'd hate to see you back here in 6 months with "Darn, I should have done this" comments...

Again, just my 2 cents worth!