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goldenwarrior1

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Posts posted by goldenwarrior1

  1. Unnecessary if they do not appear cracked, chafed or damaged in any way. Inspect for bulging or deformed lines which would indicate an internal failure. Rarely does the hose go bad from internal corrosion unless it has had a poor maintenance history. By your description I would say flush the system at its regular scheduled interval and spend you money on something else.

  2. Just had mine done at the dealer! $180.00 for a new fob plus a half hour labor to reprogram all keys. Short of having the 40 digit key there is no other option that I know of... If the key just lost the code then the dealer can read the 40 digit code to your current key as it is stored in the alarm unit. However, if the fob has died you will need a replacement.. Cheers, Tom

  3. Ah, that explains the FG part! Most high end shops will wet sand the clear coat with 2500 grit to remove all the imperfections and then buff out with mirror glaze or similar polish compound. If done correctly, the relections from a stop sign etc should be wave free with crisp clean edges. It takes some time but the end results are well worth it. The average person wouldnt note the difference but if you have an eye for detail you will pick it right up.

    Regards /Tom

  4. The whole story is BS IMO! First, the bumper covers are not made of fiberglass but a semi-rigid thermoplastic made of polyolefin-type (TPO). Most likely the wavy marks are from poor sanding techniques that leave the suface uneven. This is very easy to do when you consider the soft nature of the plastics and is a direct result of poor training and knowledge of repairing Thermoplastics. Once the damage is done it will be very difficult to restore the original surfacce of the bumper. The major issues with aftermarket products is not the surface finish but the accurate fit of the parts. My advice would be to contact your insurance company and tell them the servie is unacceptable. I went through this when someone ran into my Honda Civic and I forced them to use OEM parts AFTER they used the non-OEM and it looked like A$$.

    Hope this helps, Tom

    • Upvote 1
  5. Sorry 996 Noob but you are incorrect! When you put an extension on a torque wrench, like a crow foot or a dog bone, the torque applied to the fastener increases, since the lever arm increases.

    Here is the formula: M1 = M2 x L1 / L2

    Where:

    M1 is the torque setting of the wrench.

    M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut

    L1 is the normal length of the wrench

    L2 is the extended length of the wrench (Length of wrench + length of adapter)

    Example:

    M1=torque wrench setting ?

    M2=80 FT-LBS (Desired torque)

    L1=18" (Length of torque wrench)

    L2=22" (Total length of wrench with 4 inch extension added to wrench)

    80x18/22=65.45 M1 therefore = 65.45; In other words if you want to torque a fastener to 80 FT-LBS using an 18 inch torque wrench with a 4 inch torque extender you will set the wrench to 65.45 FT-LBS

    • Upvote 1
  6. The brake sensors just complete a loop as you stated so if all 4 of them check out then you have other issues. If you still have the old sensors you can cut the end off and twist the wires together and temporarily connect them to all 4 wheel sensor connectors. If the light goes out then one of your new sensors is bad. If the brake light stays on then you have other brake issues. Do you have or know someone who has the Durametric software? It will read out any additional brake faults you have in the brake system.

  7. I have been doing brake jobs for more than 30 years and have never needed a torque wrench for that application. However, if you feel the need for that level of accuracy then I would reccomend a craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench. The 25-250 inch lbs will fill most of your needs but for some of the larger torques such as axle nuts will require a larger wrench with Ft Lbs capability. Both wrenches run about $75.00 and are very reliable. You can certainly buy more expensive tools but your paying for something you don't need. One other thing to keep in mind is to always relieve all the tension on the tool when you are done using it. Don't store it set at your last setting.

    If you do a search on this site you will find a lot of info regarding DIY for brakes including minimum rotor dimensions.

    Hope this helps.

  8. Phillip,

    That didn't take long! I only have one thing to say SWEEEET!!!! :notworthy:

    Congrats, I know you will enjoy and glad to see such a clean car will go to someone who will care for it!

    R/Tom

  9. That's what got me panting! A friend of mine has an 07 and your right, it sets you back in the seat! What's really cool is he had it custom color matched by the factory to a color his dad had in the early 80's. Porsche still had records of his dad's order! Amazing!! Plus he did the factory tour and took ownership in Germany. Color is kind of an aqua blue, not my personal choice but it is pretty. As for me, I will probably wait another year and let the price settle a little more. I figure as the new models hit the street the 07/08 will become pretty attractive. We are already seeing a 40% decline from sticker price. Let me know if you make the plunge :notworthy: I'll be the first in line to be green with envy...B)

    Cheers, Tom

  10. Phillip,

    The impact to trigger an airbag under U.S. regulations require deployment in crashes at least equivalent in deceleration to a 23 km/h (14 mph) barrier collision, or similarly, striking an object so the airbag deployment alone wouldn't bother me. Likewise, the fact the car had minor damage doesn't bother me however, it will bother most folks who want a Porsche so you could suffer on a resale if you sold it in the future. If you plan on keeping for a long time, probably not a big deal. At some point the normal depreciation curve will intersect the diminished value curve... What would matter the most to me would be any evidence of stress marks on the frame or ANY structural componets. The bolt on items and painted componets are consumable in my opinion FWIW...

    Bottom line, sounds like you could get a great car at a great price! Good luck!

  11. I have come to the conclusion that the obnoxious noise coming from the front of my Boxster (especially in hot weather) is the front right balljoint in the control arm. How straight forward is replacement? Do I need any special tools and what other components need to be removed in order to replace? I already have the part on order through Pelican; I'd just like a bit of guidance before I tackle this. Is it worth farming the labor out to my local shop or can I make cake out of this? Any help is appreciated.

    Edit: This is a 2003 2.7 Boxster.

    Not sure what your ordered but I think the ball joints are integrated into the control arm and are not replaceable. Check out this DIY link from pelican parts for more info and pictures.

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/59-SUSPEN-Suspen_Overhaul/59-SUSPEN-Suspen_Overhaul.htm

  12. Who is doing the work? Dealer? Indy? DIY? You can buy the whole clutch kit for about $550.00 assuming you don't need to replace the flywheel. A good indy should be able to do the install for about the same amount in labor. As for your original question, not sure why you would risk putting inferior parts in a high performance vehicle to save maybe a 100.00 bucks... Besides my experience is you get what you pay for...

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