goldenwarrior1

The wheels look even nicer in high resolution! Not normally a big fan of aftermarket wheels but you made a great choice. The fronts really fill up the wheel well, any clearance issues on tight radius turns?

BTW, its 30 degrees and snowing here on the east coast... My girl is sleeping quietly in the garage dreaming of 75 degree weather!

Cheers, GW :cheers:

The color is correct for washer fluid but I have never seen it jell like that! Perhaps you ran over somthing and kicked it up into the wheel well?

Phillip,

What did you do about the TPMS? did your sensors mount in the new wheels?

Phillip,

one word, NICE! :cheers:

I recently purchased a 2003 Porsche Boxster S with 64k on it and I have to replace a rear wheel bearing. I know the best tool for the job is the SIRB90-P2 Hub/Bearing Extractor and Installer Kit, but i do not want to pay $300 after shipping to own a tool i will (hopefully) only use once. Is there anyone in the Baltimore area (Reisterstown specifically) that can let me borrow/rent it for a few hours to get this job done? I have been searching everywhere and my only option seems to be that I have to buy it outright. I would love to be able to avoid this if i can. My only other option is to pull out the whole wheel carrier and take it to my local porsche mechanic and have him extract it and install a new one and I would really like to avoid this as well b/c it adds extra work on my end that could be avoided if i had the right tool. And my mechanic is reluctant to letting me or anyone borrow his bearing extractor/installer; which i cant blame him for.

On another note, this site is great. It has saved me soo much time and money so far. If not for this site, I probably would still be trying to pull the axles out that I had to rebuild a few weeks ago!

You may want to try a local tool rental place or maybe check with Advance Auto or Auto Zone. They have free rental of a lot of special use tools. B)

I had a similar noise a while back it turned out to be the ceramic insert inside of the catalytic converter. When I replaced the converter you could hear it "rattle" when you shook the converter back and forth. I wouldn’t call it a clatter but it was definitely annoying and especially loud when started up in the garage.

I also agree with the poor ergonomics of the design. Doesn’t flow with the interior and is in the way of the passenger. If you are looking for suggestions then I would suggest making something that fits in the lower console where the CD holder and cubby are currently located.

Yeah, I've already got the radio pulled and the fuse out. Unfortunately the fusible part isn't visible and I don't have a continuity checker. Now I need to figure out where to get a replacement! (Porsche part number 996-blah-blah $322.99 ;) )

I just wonder if it's normal for the voltage to go down like that...

13.25 volts is a normal reading for the Alternator. If you don’t have any lights you should be ok. DO NOT disconnect the battery while the car is running to check operation of the alternator. It can seriously damage the car control modules from the power fluctuation. If you suspect it bad take it off and take it to a shop and have them run it on the bench. Places like auto zone will do this for free. If it is bad, an electrical repair shop can repair it for you at a fraction for the cost of a new one. Hope this helps.

R/GW

Yeah, I've already got the radio pulled and the fuse out. Unfortunately the fusible part isn't visible and I don't have a continuity checker. Now I need to figure out where to get a replacement! (Porsche part number 996-blah-blah $322.99 ;) )

I just wonder if it's normal for the voltage to go down like that...

13.25 volts is a normal reading for the Alternator. If you don’t have any lights you should be ok. DO NOT disconnect the battery while the car is running to check operation of the alternator. It can seriously damage the car control modules from the power fluctuation. If you suspect it bad take it off and take it to a shop and have them run it on the bench. Places like auto zone will do this for free. If it is bad, an electrical repair shop can repair it for you at a fraction for the cost of a new one. Hope this helps.

R/GW

hey i own a 2000 carrera and i was going back home and i saw a 2010 750 BMW so i street race it for a while and it really flys away !! :huh:

shall i install nitrous ? can the carrera take that NOS system or there is other things it will make it run faster i dont want to mess it up

Just my opinion but your money would be better spent on a driving school. The 2000 911 Carrera, properly driven, will outperform the BMW 7 series. While the 750 is a 400+ HP car, it is a 5000 lb sedan with a 1/4 mile time of close to 14 secs and a top speed, govener limited, of 155. Much slower than your 911… Again, just my opinion.. B)

Not sure if you figured this out yet but if power is disconnected memory modules may lose their memory. The headlights have a memory control module located behind=d the passenger Air Bag. If this module loses its memory then it will need to be reprogrammed with a PST2. If you have the Durametric software you can read and reset the codes but do not think you can reprogram the module. Your most likely will need to take it to the shop unless you know someone with a PST2. Let us know if you find out otherwise. Good luck! B)

R/

Let us know what you find out! Clattering is never good...

3M makes a adhesive remover wheel that goes on a rotary tool or drill. I have one and it works quite well. saves a lot on the elbow grease. B)

When I do one, I like to take all day, simply because I'm my customer and it's fun, because I'm a cheapskate, and I enjoy the sense of accomplishment I get when I do this sort of stuff.

I usually start about 8 ~ 9, and get finished by 4. I also spend an hour or two detailing the engine bay as it is easier to clean and wax the bottom of the body when the transaxle is not there.

Glad to see someone else takes the time to meticulously clean the surrounding area whenever they have something disassembled. Nothing irritates me more than seeing a job completed and grease dirt left everywhere around the job. I know it has nothing to do with how long the repair will last, it's just professional!! Ok, off my soapbox. B)

My owners manual says 29psi front and 36psi but my tires are not factory Porsche. Just looking for suggestions. I guessI will stick with the manual.

Never hurts to ask a question! Correctly inflated tires receive appropriate support from the contained air pressure to provide an even distribution of load across the footprint and help stabilize the tire's structure. And while most drivers recognize that this has a significant impact on tire wear, rolling resistance and durability, only a few realize underinflation also has a noticeable influence on how quickly and precisely the tires respond to the driver's input.

Disadvantages of Underinflation

An underinflated tire can't maintain its shape and becomes flatter than intended while in contact with the road. If a vehicle's tires are underinflated by only 6 psi it could weaken the tire's internal structure and eventually lead to tire failure. Lower inflation pressures will allow more deflection as the tire rolls. This will build up more internal heat, increase rolling resistance (causing a reduction in fuel economy of up to 5%) and reduce the tire's tread life by as much as 25% while increasing the probability of irregular treadwear. Drivers would also find a noteworthy loss of steering precision and cornering stability. While 6 psi doesn't seem excessively low, it typically represents about 20% of a passenger car tire's recommended pressure.

Disadvantages of Overinflation

An overinflated tire is stiff and unyielding and the size of its footprint in contact with the road is reduced. If a vehicle's tires are overinflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when encountering potholes or debris in the road, as well as experience irregular tread wear. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities as well causing the vehicle to ride harsher and transmit more noise into its interior. However, higher inflation pressures reduce rolling resistance slightly and typically provide a slight improvement in steering response and cornering stability. This is why participants who use street tires in autocrosses, track events and road races run higher than normal inflation pressures.

Any suggestiuons on tire pressure? I have a set Michelin Pilot Sport. 225/45/17 front and 265/40/17 rear. I am currently running 30psi in front and 36psi rear.

Quote from your owners manual; :huh:

Tire Pressures for Cold Tires

Summer tires and snow tires

Front 17 inch wheels:

36 psi (2.5 bar) overpressure

Rear 17 inch wheels:

36 psi (2.5 bar) overpressure

Spare wheel

911 Carrera, Targa

Front and rear 60 psi (4.2 bar) overpressure

Collapsible spare wheel

911 Carrera 4, Carrera 4S

Front and rear 36 psi (2.5 bar) overpressure

These tire pressures are valid only for Porsche approved tires.

For replacement tires it is imperative that you consult the Technical Data and Tires, Wheels

sections of this manual and follow the recommendations contained therein.

Does anyone know what the 2005 to 2008 stock 5 spoke 19 inch Carrera wheel weighs? I have been investigating replacing my wheels. I want to be able to compare wheel weight. Can't find the information anywhere.

Pic shows wheels in question.

Thanks!

Don't have P/N's but here is what I can find. Hope it helps. B)

Porsche 997 Wheels

Porsche Factory Carrera S

8x19" 22 lbs. 4 oz.

11x19" 27 lbs. 12 oz.

Porsche Factory Carrera Classic

8x19" 23 lbs. 10 oz.

11x19" 28 lbs. 11 oz.

Porsche Factory Carrera Sport Design

8x19" 24 lbs. 3 oz.

11x19" 28 lbs. 3 oz.

Porsche Factory Carrera Sport

8.5x19" 24 lbs. 2 oz.

11.5x19" 29 lbs. 4 oz.

Forged Turbo Wheels

8.5x19" 23 lbs. 8 oz

11x19" 27 lbs. 14 oz.

Porsche 997 GT3

8.5x19" 24 lbs. 5 oz.

12x19" 30 lbs. 13 oz.

8x19 (987, 997 non turbo front) 23.4 pounds

8.5x19 (997 turbo front) 23.9 pounds

9.5x19 (987 rear) 25 pounds

11x19 (997 turbo rear) 28.8 pounds

Carrera III Wheel Weights

8x18, 22.0 lbs

10x18, 24.9 lbs

Thanks for the reply. So these transmitters can be switched to a new set of wheels and tires?

I guess what I'm saying is that I may be getting new wheels and tires. I've been told I can use the sensors off the stock wheels...the question is if I buy the wheels and tires (and have them shipped mounted and balanced) will I be able to switch the sensors?

Phillip,

The TPMS must be installed prior to mount and balance. However, they may not fit your new rims, it all depends on the wheel profile. The wheel manufacturer or installer should know if they will work. So, in answer to your question, you will have to re-mount and balance the wheels and tires if they do fit. Attached is a picture of a sensor.

R/ GW

I just bought an amplifier from Los Angeles Dismantler. Was stunned to find out how many parts and dimantled Porsches they have. Certain they have your headlamps if you need to replace them. (888) POR-SCHE. I talked to a guy named Leo but I'm sure anyone can help you. Good luck!

Your lights are repairable and easy to fix but will take about an hour of labor. You can either take them to a reputable detailing shop that performs headlight restoration or you can go to Wal-Mart and buy a kit for about $20.00. I have used them repeatedly with great success. DO NOT use the machine pads for the very reasons you wrote this. It takes a skilled hand to prevent heat from building up on the disks causing the swirl marks you have. The kit from Wal-Mart will be done entirely by hand and will take you about 30 minutes a light if you follow the directions carefully.

Heres the link Headlight Restoration

Good luck, GW

B)

I have a 02 C4S with 92K on it and it runs like a scalded dog! No leaks of any type and no history of any major repairs, just all recommended maintenance performed on time or early. Like any machine, they can break but I personally don’t feel you should avoid a car you really seem to like if you do a thorough check of the car before buying.

One thing to remember with these forums is that no ones reports when the car is running perfect, it is mostly a compilation of problems. If you were to take any other car forum you will find similar threads on issues relating to that specific model. Granted, it appears to be a relatively high number of failures with IMS issues but to date I have no seen any official numbers. I suspect it is a small number.

Bottom line, do your homework, buy the most car you can afford and enjoy the hell out of it.

B)

I would have all the wheels inspected by a repair shop. They can then advise you on the best route for repair.

A number of Non destruction inspection (NDI) methods exist to determine if it is a crack. Dye penetrant, or liquid penetrant inspection are examples that are relatively cheap compared to the cost of a new OEM wheel. Look around in the yellow pages or Google your area and you should be able to find someone who can do the work. Or, since you are going to replace them anyway, carefully sand away the paint from the damaged area and see if the crack extends beyond the surface. If you find it is only superficial damage then refinishing the wheels would be my choice. Good luck. :cheers:

Here is a link that explains the process.

Dye Penetrant Process

A lot of corrosion indeed.Take it off clean all the corrossion off an out of the hose. Chances are fare that you'll find the end of that hose showing some age. When you remove the hose, have a fair sized tub to catch the coolant. You can also bend the hose up, clamp if you can to minimize the drainage.

Puff of white smoke after a few idle days is normal.

Regards, PK

If you follow the source of the leak pattern it leads up under the pulley above it which should be the water pump. Most water pumps have a weep hole that will begin to seep fluid when the shaft seal begins to go. Judging by the amount of build up around the hose clamp, you need to replace the pump immediately as it could give way any time. Not a hard job and can be done by most DIY if you have a jack and a few tools. The small investment would be much less than what a shop would charge you.

R/GW

trying to figure out how to swap a blade or a pill

without destroying old or new one.

thanks,

mike

It's pretty easy. Just pop open the head and swap out the blade and pill. Here is a link to Pelican parts tech answers with pictures. Hope it helps.

GW

Changing remote head

I apologize, I forgot about the rear fog light.

Rear Fog Lamp

OEM: 7506

LED: 1156 Red BA15 24-LED bulb 7.49 ea / Total

You can install two of these bulbs (one on each side) but it is not necessary. The factory configuration has two sockets but there is only a bulb on the driver's side of the car.

Make that new total 133.33.

D.

Dwiggy,

Can you post pics when you are done? Would like to see a picture of the lights "lit" at night. Curious as to the difference between OEM and the LED's.

Thanks, GW

Here are the LEDs installed. I took pictures of the tails, the parks, side markers, hazards, maps and step lights.

I used a xenon color for the interior and the park lights.

What you cannot see in pictures is the clarity of these lights. The interior has a nice cool look. The turns and brakes are on and off instantly. There is no delay in LEDs.

D.

Thanks Dwiggy,

Hard to appreciate the full effect from a photo but they look much brighter. I especially like the interior lights! Thanks for taking the time to post your efforts and final results.

GW

I apologize, I forgot about the rear fog light.

Rear Fog Lamp

OEM: 7506

LED: 1156 Red BA15 24-LED bulb 7.49 ea / Total

You can install two of these bulbs (one on each side) but it is not necessary. The factory configuration has two sockets but there is only a bulb on the driver's side of the car.

Make that new total 133.33.

D.

Dwiggy,

Can you post pics when you are done? Would like to see a picture of the lights "lit" at night. Curious as to the difference between OEM and the LED's.

Thanks, GW