jfoxny

I've been having sporadic electrical issues with my 2006 997 for some time now. In certain situations, usually when it's hot or humid out (and sometimes when hitting a hard bump), I experience a PSM failure and a  Spoiler Failure. Recently the speedometer (both digital and analog) will also read 0mph while driving after this fault. 

I've pulled the fault codes with a Durametric (see below) and it seems to point to a faulty control module. When I took it to the dealer a while back, they also indicated it was a faulty ABS control unit.  However, what's suspicious to me is that it only happens in certain conditions, again, when it's hot or humid out or when hitting a hard bump.

The easy thing to do is to check the fault and say, "yep you need to replace that," but I'm curious if perhaps the problem could be more nuanced than that. Could it be a wiring issue somewhere in the car that, when it gets hot, the electrical resistance increases and the fault shows itself (similar to the issue with the starter wiring harness that was recalled)?  

I'm hesitant to just say go replace this part because it's quite pricey, only happens in certain situations, and most importantly, if the issue is elsewhere, I'd rather it be diagnosed properly and fixed.  Unfortunately these days people seem to jump right to replace rather than really diagnose and fix the issue.

Anyways, any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Jason

DURAMETRIC RESULTS

987.618.109.06

One thing I failed to mention is that after I brought the car in to diagnose the CEL (post-coil replacement), I noticed that when the car starts to idle the revs rise slightly before falling into idle.  I thought at the time that perhaps the tech adjusted something to try to prevent the fault in the future but I know it did not do that before.  Not sure if it's related or not.  

Thanks for the response, Loren. Is this something I can determine using the Durametric tool?

When I look at the "freeze frame" information regarding the faults for relevant information, I see the following:

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 = -4%

Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 = 0

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 = -3 %

Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 = 3%

Air Flow Rate from Mass Air Flow Sensor = 4 g/s

...and when I examine the "actual values" using the Durametric tool I get:

Fuel trim adaption close to idle (RKAT) = 3.656%

However, it's unclear to me how this feature of the Durametic works. Are you supposed to use it with the car running or is it showing me the last recorded actual values?

Jason

A couple of months ago my CEL came on (2006 C2) and started flashing while driving on the highway. The car ran really rough so I called Porsche road side assistance and they told me even though the light was flashing I could drive it to the dealer. So, I did (about 30 miles).  

Turns out that two of my coils were cracked.  The dealer ended up replacing all six coils under warranty (I guess there was some sort of informal recall on them).  A couple of days later my CEL came on again so I went back to the dealer.

The dealer scanned the car and said that the fault was something to do with "the fuel mixture being too lean at idle." However, they could not reproduce it and sent me on my way.  Just yesterday, the CEL came back on again.

Time time I scanned it myself with a Durametric tool. The fault appears to be the same faults that the dealer found:

P2189 - Oxy. sensor control. RKAT bank 2 range near idle speed

P2187 - Oxy. sensor control. RKAT bank 1 range near idle speed

I read through the forums and saw some references to a loose oil cap being at fault.  I checked that and it's quite tight. So, now I'm left wondering what else it could be.  Specifically, I'm wondering if it might be related to the coil replacement or to the fact that I drove it with the cracked coils.  Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks

Jason

1. Sorry, no. You need a PIWIS or PIWIS 2.

2. Start with the troublesome battery to starter cable and the chassis ground.

1 - The dealer told me the software was up-to-date in the front and rear control modules

2 - The dealer checked this at my request the last time my car was in and they told me it was fine. My starter was also replaced recently but these problems far pre-date this issue.

They still say the issue is the ABS Hydraulic Unit Pump (997-355-955-06). However, I'm having a difficult time getting the warranty company to agree.

8035 Diagnosis information rear - Reversing light

Possible fault causes

- Open circuit/contact resistance in wiring, sockets, plugs and terminals

- Short circuit to ground in wiring

- Reverse gear switch faulty

- Tiptronic control unit faulty

- Short circuit to ground in point SP039_SPRFL_2 (driver's seat) of the ParkAssist control unit

Thanks for the quick reply. Well, it's a manual so tiptronic is out. I also do not have park assist, so, that's out. I guess it's down to the first three. I cleared the faults and this one did not come back. So, I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed on this.

Jason

8037 Diagnosis information rear - License plate light

Possible fault causes

- Open circuit/contact resistance in wiring, sockets, plugs and terminals

- Failure of one of two bulbs (2 x 5 watt)

- Short circuit to ground in wiring

Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I will start with the bulbs and go from there.

Jason

You have checked the grounds on the car?

I would try re-programming the PSM module - clear the codes - then see what comes back.

Thanks for the quick reply, Loren. Two questions:

1) Can I re-program the PSM module with the Durametirc tool (my guess is no)?

2) How do I check the grounds?

When this originally happened I asked the tech to try reprogramming the front and rear control modules and he said that they were already up-to-date.

Jason

This problem is still happening on occasion. When I turn the key to the accessory position it almost always throws a PSM Failure / System Failure fault. Recently got myself a Durametric tool and scanned the car after one of these faults appeared. Here's the set of fault codes (similar to the previous set from the first page):

Just got a Durametric. After clearing all faults, a few remained that I am not familiar with. What does: 8035 - Interior sensor fan indicate? A/C seems to work normally. Non-issue?

Thanks,

Jason

Finally got myself a Durametic tool. Hooked it up the other night and found several faults, most of which I knew about. However, there were a few that I wasn't aware of. Specifically:

8037 - Number plate light.

Sure enough, I checked and the plate light is out. Does anyone know if this fault simply indicates a blown bulb or is there a bigger problem?

Thanks,

Jason

PS - I'll post separately about the other faults.

It was the clip. There were a couple of plastic tabs that just pulled out but the clip was the final one. If you do remove it be careful not to loose the clip and the metal washer as it has a tendency it just pop off. Here's a photo of the trim piece removed:

I am trying to update my 996 hardtop with the latest screw-style locking pins so I can mount it on my 997 (also just updated with the new hardtop mounts). However, I'm not sure how to remove the plastic trim pieces that cover the locking pin mounts. They sort of look like speaker grills. I see metal clips on the underside of deck, but, I think those are for removing the mounts themselves. I did a bunch of searching and came up with this post:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/11889-need-instructions-on-how-to-remove-hardtop-inside-trim/

However, the piece that I am trying to remove does not seem to be included in this diagram. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Jason

Here is a photo of the clip (upper left) and the trim piece covering the locking pin mount that I am trying to remove:

Has anyone had any problems with the sport exhaust failing (without and indication lights)? Does tracking damage this temporarily?

This happened to me over this past weekend during a long trip. After being parked on the top of a parking garage overnight (in the hot sun) the PSE wouldn't turn on. I've been having other electrical issues with the car so it might be related - not sure yet. I am going to bring it into the dealer next week. I will post what they find.

Problem turned out to be a failed Vacuum Actuator Unit (Bank 2) Part #997-111-680-00.

Could be as simple as a vacuum hose vibrated off of one the valves.

You should check those connections.

(click to enlarge)

pse.png

I checked my connections yesterday and they were fine. I also pulled the orange plug to see if that would "activate" the PSE but it did not. Does that indicate a solenoid or vacuum actuator failure?

Sorry, everything here is a guess until the car is put on a Porsche PIWIS tester and had diagnostics run on it.

Taking it in on Tuesday. I'll post what they find.

The car has had all sorts of electrical issues as I mentioned previously. The starter is going to be replaced during this service too as it's drawing too many amps (340). The dealer insists that the ABS Pump needs to be replaced but the warranty company will not cover it unless they physically observe the fault (and not until the dealer opens a technical service case with Porsche). However, the warranty company's adjustors come from some 300 miles away and are given two days to get to the dealer. So, catching the fault and showing it to them has proven difficult if not impossible.

i would think PSM issues are more related to traction, limp mode, triggering brakes/ABS unnecessarily etc. but what you're describing is a harsher ride which i associate with PASM and/or coils and shocks. maybe one of your shocks or springs up front is on it's last legs (or broken)?

My thoughts too. However, the odd thing is that after a restart the car was fine, like immediately fine.

My 06 997.1 C2 started to act strange on the way back from a long trip this weekend. It was raining pretty heavily so I slowed down. Out of the blue, every little bump started to feel like I was hitting a really bad pot hole. Also, even at low speeds, handling seem really compromised - the front-end was moving around quite a bit.

My girlfriend and I thought that perhaps we had a flat (or at least a poorly inflated tire). So, we pulled into a gas station, shut off the car and checked the tire pressures. However, all of the tires were properly inflated. So, we restarted the car and headed out. Everything from that point on was fine. Could this have been a PSM failure even though no fault was thrown?

Two notes:

1) The car has the standard suspension (i.e., not PASM).

2) The PSE had failed earlier on the trip - no faults - just stopped working.

I'm brining the car in next to diagnose the PSE failure. I've been having other electrical issues with the car (including PSM failures - but always with a fault) so it might be related, but, who knows. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Jason

Has anyone had any problems with the sport exhaust failing (without and indication lights)? Does tracking damage this temporarily?

This happened to me over this past weekend during a long trip. After being parked on the top of a parking garage overnight (in the hot sun) the PSE wouldn't turn on. I've been having other electrical issues with the car so it might be related - not sure yet. I am going to bring it into the dealer next week. I will post what they find.

Jfoxny, 340 amps??? That would melt the car. Maybe you meant 34.0 amps? Remember your average household circuit is 15 amps. My self cleaning electric oven is on a 40 amp circuit. Fix the starter. If the PCM module has an issue it will at some point become obvious and you can shove it down the insurance company's throat. I will gladly help. Please let us know what happens. Experience is the best of all teachers and here we get to share each others experience!

No, it says 340 amps on the work order and he also told me that verbally. The problem continues to happen sporadically, however, I need to have it happen at a time when I can get the car to the dealer. The warranty company asked that it be brought there and left un-started until the adjustor can get there. I'll post when I am able to do that. Fingers crossed!

Fault codes are stored until either cleared by a tech or until the DME feels that the problem has been solved or repaired, which is often quite a bit of driving (several start, warm up, run at highway speed, shut off, and cool down cycles at a minimum).

Thanks for the reply. That's great news. Then perhaps their suggestion will work. The warranty company also wanted verification that the dealer contacted "Porsche Technical Support" to consult them / open a case regarding this issue. Is that a normal thing for the techs to do? I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow and see if I can find out what the warranty company is talking about.

Here is the full report from the tech:

SCANNED SYSTEM FOR FAULT CODES. FOUND MANY CONTROL UNITS HAVE FAULTS FOR NO COMMUNICATION WITH PSM CONTROL UNIT. PSM CU HAS A NOT PRESENT CODE FOR "CONTROL UNIT FAULTY". DME ALSO MISSING SPEED SIGNAL AT TIMES WHICH COMES FROM PSM CU. RECOMMEND NEW PSM CONTROL UNIT. CHECKED STARTER CABLES DUE TO SLOW CRANK. FOUND VOLTAGE DROP OF .30 VOLTS BETWEEN BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR-OK. FOUND STARTER IS DRAWING 340 AMPS WHICH IS OVER SPEC-WILL NEED STARTER TO CORRECT. PART#996-604-103-X $304.02 PLUS LABOR TO INSTALL.

The starter is drawing 340 amps which is apparently really high. I might start there are you suggested if I cannot get the warranty company to cover the big ticket item. Speaking of the warranty company, does anyone know if fault codes remain when the car is shut off (and if so for how long)?

The warranty company wants to see an active fault. They suggested waiting until it happens, driving the car to the dealer, then leaving it off until the inspector can get there. Will the fault code still be there until the car is started or do they clear when the car is shut off?

Jason

They said that they tested the voltage from front to back and throughout the entire system it only lost 3/10ths which is within spec. They said their conclusion is that it's still the PSM control unit which I guess is part and parcel with the ABS Pump (?). They also said the slow crank is the starter; it's drawing too many amps.

My problem now is that the warranty company (Fidelity Platinum Warranty - $4k) won't cover the PSM control unit unless their adjustor can physically see the PSM Failure error up on the Dashboard.

First, does the diagnosis seem sound? And second, anyone have any ideas how to get the failure to occur on-demand?