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Posts posted by jfoxny

  1. When did you last change the brake fluid?

    Thanks for the response, Loren. I've had the car now for two years. I purchased it with about 30k miles on the clock and it's now at about 45k. In that time I've had an oil change, clutch replaced, RMS leak repaired, and the 40k mile maintenance done. I'd imagine the only one of those services that could possibly include a brake fluid change would be the 40k maintenance. So, If the 40k maintenance doesn't include a brake fluid change then I don't know when the last time that was done would be. Is it time?


  2. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    I always have to press the homelink button a few times before the garage door opens. Sometimes I have to hold it down for a few seconds, sometimes I don't. I'm not sure why, but, it's consistently inconsistent. At first I didn't think the programming worked but for me this is just how it is. Not sure if it's my garage door opener or the car though.


    • Upvote 1
  3. Well it's not on my 06, so I would say it's damaged. Did you buy it from new?

    I stopped by the dealer today for something and while I was there I asked them to look at it. They said it's definitely not supposed to look like that but they were puzzled by how it could have happened. I'll have to take it to a body shop to have them look at it.

    To answer your question, I did buy the car used, but, I've had it for a year and never noticed this (even though I've jacked the car up and changed the tires myself). There doesn't appear to be a "point of impact." just a nice, smooth dent. Anyone have any ideas on how this could have happened?


  4. I was sitting outside of my car (2005 987) today and noticed something odd. The panel underneath the door is bent upwards in an arc underneath the driver's side door (see attachment). There is no matching arc on the passenger's side. So, I'm wondering, is this supposed to look like this or is this damaged?

    Thanks in advance,



  5. At the dealer now. They said they just "hot charged" the battery last time because it only looked "low" to them. Hopefully they will actually fix the problem this time!

    The verdict is the battery is bad. Not sure why they did not properly tested it the first time I brought it to their attention! Thanks again for the replies.


  6. Anytime you jump start a modern car you take a risk of blowing electronic components.

    Make sure they removed the battery - load tested it on a machine and then took specific gravity readings of each cell. That is the only way I know to thoroughly test a battery.

    If the battery is 4 years old or older I would replace it anyway.

    At the dealer now. They said they just "hot charged" the battery last time because it only looked "low" to them. Hopefully they will actually fix the problem this time!

    Thanks for the help,


  7. Simple Test:

    If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle.

    Thanks, Loren. I'll have to jump start the car to get it going again in order to do this test. I read elsewhere that going through this battery drain => jump start => batter drain => jump start process too many times can damage the electronics due to the repeated fluctuation of current through the system. Any truth to that? Should I be concerned?

    Thanks again,


  8. Humm... car won't start again. The dealer told me they tested the battery and it was "fine." If the battery was toast wouldn't the dealer have been able to tell that? Does that indicate an alternator issue? If it were the alternator, though, wouldn't I have not been able to start the car to drive back from the dealer since it sat turned for an hour or so after only being driven for 15-20 minutes post-jump-start?


  9. I believe that "home" mode only means that the lights will stay on for 30 seconds after closing the door and then turn off... I doubt that was the cause of your problem.

    I just checked the manual and while you are correct about the lights turning of in 30 seconds this last note seems a bit contradictory (specifically the last part about the possibility of "battery discharge.")...

    The lights are turned on for approx. 30 seconds when the vehicle is unlocked. The lights go out if the ignition is switched on or when leaving the Welcome Home lighting

    If the ignition key is withdrawn and the door is opened while the lights (not the parking light left/right) are on, a gong warns of possible battery discharge. -- page 108, Welcome Home Lighting

    If the lights go out in 30 seconds why would you then need to be "warned" that they are on? I'm going on a long trip this weekend, so it would be good to know if there is something wrong before I go. I'll take the jump pack with me just in case, but, can anyone clarify this?



  10. I was out driving the car (2005 987 - 39k miles) over the weekend and all was fine. I just went into the garage to move it and it will not start. When I turn the key it sounds like it's going to start but then I just get a series of clicks and the headlights flash. The lights turn on, the PCM turns on, etc., so, I don't think it's the battery, but, I think I'll try to jump start it to rule that out.

    Jumped the car with a jump pack this morning and took it into the dealer. The dealer said the batter is fine. When I got home and pulled the car into the garage I noticed that my lights were on in the "Home" position. Since I didn't turn them on today I must have left them on the last time I drove the car (which was over the weekend)!! DOH!!


    Thanks for the replies,


  11. Original battery? If so, it is 5 years old (and likely shot).

    Thanks for the reply. I went out and bought a jump pack because I can't get jumper cables to the car based on where it is right now and cannot easily move it. I'm charging up the jump pack now and hopefully I can jump the car in the morning. I actually have an appointment at the dealer in the AM, so, I'll have them replace the battery if that's the issue. Fingers crossed!

    Thanks again,


  12. I did check the tires and they are the Mich. Pilot Sport. They have OUTSIDE written on the tire, so I assume they are mounted correctly.

    The OUTSIDE marking simply indicates that that is the outside tirewall, i.e., the wall that faces outward when mounted on your rim. If the tire is "directional" then it should also have an arrow indicating the rotational direction (which is not the same as the outside sidewall). If your tires are directional then there is a distinct LEFT and a RIGHT tire and they cannot be swapped. I am running Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrical tires which do not have a directional tread and therefore if I wanted I could swap the left front wheel with the right one. My Mich. Alpine winter tires are directional and therefore I cannot swap the left and right wheel. Hope that makes sense.

    I would look at the outside sidewall on your tires for the directional arrow just to be sure. The arrow should be facing the front of the car on both tires. Again, I have the same car and you should not experience any shimmy even at speeds over 80 MPH. Something is wrong.

    Hope you find your problem!


    PS - I'm attaching a picture of my Mich. Alpin winter tires that shows the directional arrow (top of the picture). The arrow should be facing forward when the tire is mounted on the car so this is a picture of a driver side tire.


  13. I have the same car and it's definitely not normal even at speeds greater than 80mph. If your tires are directional make sure they put them on in the right direction (there will be an arrow on the sidewall to indicate which is which). I accidentally put my tires on backwards once and got the steering wheel shimmy. :-) A bent rim has also caused the shimmy in other cars that I've owned.

    Hope that helps,


  14. I was out driving the car (2005 987 - 39k miles) over the weekend and all was fine. I just went into the garage to move it and it will not start. When I turn the key it sounds like it's going to start but then I just get a series of clicks and the headlights flash. The lights turn on, the PCM turns on, etc., so, I don't think it's the battery, but, I think I'll try to jump start it to rule that out.

    Any ideas or advice on how to further diagnose?

    Thanks in advance,


  15. I have the Boxster S II wheels and have used Porsche's wheel cleaning kit which I bought from Pelican Parts. It comes with a couple of brush attachments that make getting to the small places a bit easier. However, you might be able to find cheaper solutions elsewhere but at least you know it won't damage your wheels.


  16. Thanks for the information, Loren. I still wonder, though, how how many tires are tested and then rejected and which companies do not submit tires to Porsche for testing (if it works that way). I just bought a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics and from what I've read they are very similar to the often vaunted Michelin PS2s but are not N-spec. I wonder if they were tested and rejected or just not tested? I guess I'll never know. :-)


  17. I am running the N spec Continental ContiSport Contact 3's on my '08. I use my car as a daily driver and I couldn't be happier with the Continentals. They handle great, are quiet and do very well in heavy rain. A great tire. I've used cheap, non "N" spec tires on my Porsche and keep coming back to N spec and Michelins. You get what you pay for.

    I finally decided to go mid-range and get the F1s based on favorable reviews comparing them to the PS2s. The F1s are not N-spec, but, neither are more expensive tires (even more $ than the PS2s) like ones from Perelli. My understanding of N-spec tires is that it means nothing more than the manufacturer submitted the tires to Porsche for testing and that Porsche "approved" them (the number as in N1,N2,..., NN just indicates the current iteration of the tire). It would be interesting to know which tires have been submitted to Porsche but not approved. My guess is that few manufacturer's submit tires to Porsche for review. Anyone have that dirt?


  18. I just got back from Costco with a new pair of Michelin N1 Pilot Sport 2's on the back of my car. Road hazard, N2 filled, free flat fixing, and free balancing. Total cost: $550 for two rears. Don't underestimate the value of having free balancing! My thoughts are if you can get a full set of ZR, Porsche N-rated tires for under $600, go for it! Even if they only last 15,000 miles, you're still winning.

    Wow, great deal as the PS2s are $1200 at TireRack (for 4) plus shipping and the dealer charges $160 to mount an balance the set of tires. Too bad I don't have a Costco near me. :-( I'll be putting the F1s on soon. We'll see how it goes! Thanks for the info.


  19. I have the 18" Boxster S II wheels like you and think they look great. However, I also love the Sport Design look. I've never liked Chrome wheels as I think they are a bit garish. So, IMHO, stick with the Boxster S II or the Sport Design.


    PS - I've read that people prefer the 18" wheels over the 19" wheels mainly due to ride comfort. I've never tried the 19" wheels myself, though, so I cannot speak from experience.

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