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jakkay968911

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Everything posted by jakkay968911

  1. Thank you for the reply White987S, I agree about being lucky. The car jumped over an entire lane and narrowly missed a metal guard rail. I was anticipating a spin out and possible roll over. It was amazing how quickly the car slowed down and straightened out. My wife praised me for my driving ability, but I told her to give the credit to the PSM for us being here today. It could have gotten very ugly.
  2. yes Loren there were marks on the lower control arms that the repair shop described as caused by contact with tow hooks. They said at some point the car had been towed from the lower rear control arms. I did hit a pot hole doing about 80 -90 mph while traveling on I-40 in Arizona and thats when the break occured. Almost lost control, but PSM saved us I believe. Just wondered if any related suspension components would be effected. Had two Indy shops look over front and rear and found nothing else wrong. I did have a four wheel allignment done in Kingman AZ. I am kind of apprehensive to put it on the highway again although it did feel fine at speed for the 1900 miles back home. Thank you for the response.
  3. Anyone know what might cause a rear lower control arm to suddenly break and crack in two? Left side broke and the right side was bent upon inspection. 2005 Carrera with 40K miles.
  4. The battery terminals are clean and tight as new. I will look for a fuse panel diagram and try your idea regarding the fuse removal for troubleshooting the problem. Thanks for the great idea.
  5. Thank you for the thoughts Logray. The battery is three months old and has been load tested on two previous occasions related to starting issues. The alternator has passed tests as well. It appears the low voltage situation happens as some electical component attempts to activate when the car sits in the garage for a day or two.
  6. Thanks for the thoughts logray, but the battery is three months old and has been load tested two times in the last three months since this is not the first starting issue. Alternator was also tested. The low voltage situation can occur in as little as two days if something is unexpectedly drawing current. The noise I mentioned sounds like an electrical component of some kind trying to activate. The amp meter shows this as the needle indicates a cyclical pattern of current being drawn.
  7. Turning the ignition key in an effort to start my 2005 997, I got the dreaded clicking sound indicating not enough current to engage or turn the starter motor. I was fortunate enough to get the front lid open and expose the battery. I hooked up a trickle charger on the 10 amp setting and soon noticed an unusual noise. In the quiet of my garage I heard a dull, muffled clicking sound about every 45 seconds, then another 15 seconds later. This pattern was being repeated in a regular cycle as I tried to find the source of the sound. I noticed the needle on the amp meter of the charger would move as the sound occured indicating a slight draw of current. After a half hour I traced this muffled sound to the passenger seat power switch. All the positions of the switch worked except for the sliding motion. As I tried to move the seat back and forth with the switch I was able to duplicate the sound I was looking for. After trying to move the seat, somehow the noise went away and stopped drawing current as indicated by the amp meter needle. This may be a common problem that leads to starting issues. Does anyone else have any idea how to correct this problem? Is the power seat switch overly sensitive or could the motor or a relay be the source of the problem. Coincidently, I also noticed the rear spoiler was partially raised when I entered the garage, and I am positive it was down when I left the car the day before. Any help on these issues would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Thanks to everyone for all the responses. They helped me solve the mystery of the open trunk lid problem. I usually carry the key in my pocket because I do not have any special fobs or other keys attached to it which makes it easy to carry around, yet probably easier to lose. As I was sitting at my desk in my home office, I realized that with just the right motion of sitting, standing, or crossing ones legs, the trunk activation button could easily be pressed against anything in my pocket or even a fold in my jeans. I took the key from my pocket and depressed the trunk button as a test, immediately running downstairs to the attached garage. Sure enough, the trunk lid was open and the doors were unlocked with the courtesy lights illuminating. I was surprised that the trunk button also activated the doors, but after a minute or so the doors automatically relock, and the lights slowly dim to totaly off. The real surprise was that the key button worked from a distance of about 60 feet away and the second floor of my condo. The key looks to be of the original 2005 MY vintage, but I do have a spare which appears to be from the latest generation of Porsche 997 stock since it is heavier and in perfect mint condition. Now the key stays out of my pocket while at home which is a good idea anyway. I found that the friction created from sliding it in and out of my pocket wears off the red color of the Porsche badge on the key. At least that was my past experience with my previous 2001 996 Porsche keys. Hope this information may help someone else that has experienced the mystery of the open trunk lid latch.
  9. Thank you for the responses. Seems like there might be several sources to take a look at. It is interesting to find that I am not the only one with the latch release situation. I will have to test the sensitivity of the remote button. Avoiding recurrence might be as simple as being more careful with the key upon exiting the car after a drive. The help and suggestions are much appreciated.
  10. I purchased a 2005 Carrera2 997 about three months ago and have experienced finding the front trunk lid open when going down to the garage. I am positive I left the lid shut when exiting the car, but on two separate occasions I found it ajar when I returned to the garage. Luckily the trunk light must have a timer that turns off the light after 15 or 20 minutes. My key remote activation button is not the sensitive type. When opening the lid I have to hold down the button with effort for a few seconds before the lid responds. I was wondering if anyone out there has had a similar experience. The first time it happened I didn't think much of it, figuring it was my error. After the second time it has me wondering if there is a flaw of some sort involved. Thank you for any help in this mysterious matter.
  11. I like that darker grey color too. The contrasting reflections make the paint look deeper. Is that the Atlas Grey Metalic? I have the Seal Grey Metalic, almost silver in color. I was wishing I had the darker grey until I realized that these cars look great in any color. Just my subjective opinion.
  12. Thank you Paul, I might have to do as you suggest. I was trying to avoid the convenience compromise if possible. I drove my 2001 996 through three Chicago Winters, commuting daily with no problems at all and I was expecting the same reliability from the 997. It seems there is a general weakness in the charging/starting/electrical system of the 997, unless my car is the only one with such problems. Now I discovered that I can't find all season tires in the 19 inch 295 series for the rear so it may be sitting in the garage for most of the Winter anyway. I had the 18 inch 265 series on the rear of the 996 and the Michilen A/S Sports worked out great. I can always go the two sets of tires/wheels route but am planning to avoid that.
  13. I am trying to determine if there might be an unusually high current draw after shutting off the car before I get a new battery. There are so many posibilities I guess, I hate to replace something that is OK and then have the same problem. Meanwhile I have to take precautions and prepare for it to happen again. Not getting much peace of mind though. I could understand the car not starting after 2 or three weeks, but only a couple days makes me apprehensive to drive it. Thanks again for all the input, thoughts, and advice. JK
  14. Thanks for the response. The battery is an Interstate, and fits the battery compartment in size like the original Porsche battery, but I don't know the specs or how old it might be. It looks like it might be new in fact, fresh and clean and so are the contact posts. I know there weren't any visible accesories on when I left the car in the garage, unless something I couldn't see was on like the glove box light or front trunk light. I think I need a second opinion on the battery and charging system condition. I appreciate all the information and advice, thanks again. JK
  15. Thank you for the reply Paul. The jumper battery might be the way to go. I was tring to avoid getting one if I could use the trickle charger on the 2 amp setting and then the 10 amp or the boost setting to charge the battery and/or start the car once I got the front trunk lid open. Once the snow starts I probably won't be driving it much. I do miss the ammeter guage I had on my 996. Seems it was replaced with an oil temperature guage on the 997. My biggest concern is having the battery die and the car not start when I am out somewhere away from home.
  16. As I approached my 2005 Carrera with key in hand I realized the remote door opener was not opening the door. I used the key manually to get the door opened and noticed the interior courtesy lights were not illuminating. The obvious conclusion was that the battery was dead (after only sitting two days) but I tried to start the car anyway. The key turned in the ignition in the usual manner, but no starter motor response. That's when I discovered that the key wouldn't release from the ignition switch. I was able to find the positive jumping contact in the fuse panel to hook up the cables to open the front trunk and expose the battery. My Porsche is parked in a tight one car garage and I had to run two sets of jumper cables to reach the fuse panel area. I also jumped the trunk lid open from a car that was not running and everything worked out fine. The question I have is if I could use a battery trickle charger to jump the lid open. That would be easier since the distance to make the contacts would be shorter. I have a 2/10 amp charger that also has a boost feature. I am concerned that the trickle charger could damage the electrical system if used on the higher settings. Would the 2 amp setting provide enough current to get the trunk lid open without causing any damage or should I try the 10 amp setting. After hooking up the jumper cables to a running at idle 2004 Honda Accord, my car started about 20 minutes later. I was hoping it would start sooner, but apparently my battery was totally discharged. The ignition key did release once the jumper cables were connected to the running vehicle battery. I was hoping that the Honda had a compatible electrical system and the voltage ratings were also compatible. Upon starting my car, I drove five minutes to the closest mechanic shop. They checked the battery and alternator output and said eveything was normal and gave me a print out of their findings. I am certainly apprehensive at this point to drive the car at all, but the past three days I've had no problems. Any advice would be much appreciated regarding the use of the trickle charger to open the front trunk lid. Thank you, JK
  17. I recently acquired a 2005 (997) Carrera with 33K miles on the oddometer. I noticed that the black surface of the TEMP control dial seems to be peeling or chipping off, revealing the white surface beneath. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and if so, what might be the best way t go about restoring the black surface which appears to be slightly textured as opposed to a smooth finish? Thank you for any help on this issue. JK
  18. Thank you RFM and Loren. My attempt at describing the missing part certainly needed the improvement and accuracy provided by RFM. The two diagrams provided by Loren helped immensely. It looks like the #14 part as highlighted is what I need. You guys are great and the help is much appreciated. Thank you again, JK
  19. 2005 Carrera2 (997): On the inside of the front trunk area there are two screw type fasteners with rather large black caps that hold a vertical panel upright. The panel actually holds the tire repair kit. One of the screw fasteners is missing. Does anyone know the part number for this fastener? Any help is much appreciated. Thank you, JK
  20. 2005 Carrera 2 Coupe: The guide sleeve from my locking gas cap is missing. The pin pushes in and out with the locking of the doors, but the plastic sleeve is missing to guide the pin through the loop that is attached to the gas cap. I had the same problem with my 996 and it was an easy fix. I just can't find the part number anywhere. If anyone knows the part number I would appreciate the help. Thank you, JK
  21. Thank you for the reply Cassiebox. I didn't know that the switch came out that easily. The DIY sounds simple enough. I did try turning it and there was so much resistance that I was afraid to exert too much pressure and perhaps cause further damage. It felt like there was an obstacle somewhere behind the switch causing it to lock up. Luckily I do have a warranty with a zero deductable, I just hope the repair is done correctly. It should be ready in a few days as waiting for the part is an issue. I just picked up the car a few days ago and am hoping there are no more unpleasant surprises. Your information is much appreciated. Thank you again, JK
  22. In turning off the headlights of my 2005 C2 997 with 33K miles on the oddometer I noticed there seemed to be a funny feeling in the switch. It wouldn't rotate freely to all the lighting positions. When pushing or pulling the switch to the in and out positions it felt loose, and the parking lights would flicker on and off quickly. I was not able to turn the switch to the off position. The best I could do was get it into the parking light position. Turning off the ignition resuted in the dash board warning about having the lights on. After 30 minutes of repeated attempts to shut the lights off, I drove it to a local independent. I had to leave the car there as they need to order a headlight switch. I was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem, and if so was the problem resolved by replacing the headlight switch. Thank you for any help or advice on this issue.
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