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viper501

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Everything posted by viper501

  1. viper501
    That poor RX-8, what did it do to deserve that ...
  2. viper501
    Air / Oil is probably about right since they will likely remove the engine to gain access to it. While in there, they should be able to replace the filler hose with no extra work as well as the PCV's. The compression test is, in my opinion, a bit high. When my motor went, I paid an hour of labor for them to do the diagnosis which involved a compression check on all six cylinders (number 2 was 0).
  3. viper501
    I actually gave this considerable thought when my motor went. Given that this is my daily driver, I just couldn't afford to have her down for the length of time a custom project like this would entail, assuming that the LS would actually fit back there.
  4. viper501
    Jsoto, the best we can tell is that I probably lost an exhaust valve spring. Car was misfiring horribly but would still run. No compression on number 2 but no indications of a failed cylinder. A scope exam of the cylinder showed no debris or liquid inside so no indication that the cylinder liner failed. Also, the failure was 'instant' but no buildup prior to the mishap. I replaced the engine myself with a 'new' Porsche reman'd unit. Including the flywheel and clutch, as well as some miscellaneous incidentals, I spent about 10k. The biggest pain was the horrific experience I had with Brandywine Porsche telling me they ordered the replacement engine and assuring me it would be in and on its way to me while completely, totally, and absolutely lying.
  5. viper501
    Doesn't sound normal to me. My LWF rattles at idle when in neutral with the clutch out but quietens right down when I push the clutch in. I'd take it back...
  6. viper501
    I'm convinced that the US suspension height requirements are where the 'floatie' feeling is coming from. My factory aerokit I car settled down quite a bit when I put on the X74 suspension, although I can't say that it was really 'bad' at 120-140 before.
  7. viper501
    I put 126k miles on my car before I had a real problem. The dealer in Tennessee where I broke down was *very* helpful.
  8. viper501
    The photos are stamped exotic solutions while the seller is luckyselectronics? And a buy it now of 1300 bucks ... ? Not to mention it doesn't look like he's actually sold any of these units before, at least not on ebay...
  9. viper501
    Your check engine light, not check oil level pressure light, is most likely a result of a problem with ignition. There are a number of reasons that you could be getting that code. Are there any other codes?
  10. viper501
    Intermediate shaft controls the cams, all four of them, via a chain drive. If the shaft fails, the chain doesn't rotate and therefore the cams don't rotate. No way you have a broken intermediate shaft. The pistons slam into the valves and that's all she wrote for that engine. The flashing CEL is something to be concerned about but I'd suggest that it is not related to the IMS. The thing I think I'd be curious about at this point is the state of the coil packs. They are notorious for developing cracks and failing. My experience is that high RPM tends to show ignition problems that won't appear at low RPM. Personally, I'd find another dealer, or a good independent (preferred) who has a good reputation for Porsche work.
  11. viper501
    Frankly, it sounds to me, being the cynic that I am, that your dealer may be trying to take advantage of someone. If your engine had an IMS failure, it would not run. Period. There are a plethora of reasons that the CEL could / would be on including something as simple as a bad MAF sensor or O2 sensor or any number of other things. On the other hand, if the warranty company picks up the tab for a new engine, you get a two year unlimited mileage warranty from Porsche on the replacement motor. Having replace an engine at 126k miles, I would be very surprised if yours truly needed replacing given what you have described.
  12. viper501
    A *major* air leak source is the rubber bellows between the oil separator and the engine. Inspect it for cracking on the backside of the bellows. It is a horrible design using an entirely inappropriate material for the heat and oil that it is exposed to.
  13. viper501
    My LWF rattles slightly at idle in neutral. Press the clutch in and it goes away. Your service advisor is an idiot, end of story. Either that or the tech is, or both I suppose. I would recommend that you get the car away from them. Far, far away. Then get someone competent, like yourself, to change the transmission fluid unless it has been done recently. The 'lifetime' fill on the transmissions means the lifetime of the factory warranty.
  14. viper501
    I would especially check the oil separator bellows for cracking, esp. on the back side of the bellows. It is located on the driver's side of the engine above the first cylinder cam. Do a search and you can find some photos and discussion on replacement. On my old motor I replaced it fairly easily using the factory bellows and a pair of screw down clamps (versus the factory style spring clamps). Easy DIY but painful to get to physically due to positioning.
  15. viper501
    The filter housing should sit flush against the block. There shouldn't be a gap. Make sure that you applied a little oil to the o-ring before screwing the housing on, otherwise it will bind up. Even then it can be a bit tight to get snugged down.
  16. viper501
    Chuck, I didn't have to on my install.
  17. viper501
    To answer one of your original questions, the OEM amp is pathetic. Simply stated. The OEM speakers are likewise substandard for a car of this caliber. If you're going to do a replacement head unit, instead of what KevinMac has suggested, do the whole kit and kaboodle. You'll be very happy with the end result over OEM. I'm using an Alpine head unit with JL Audio amp and Focal components in the front and, IIRC, Boston Acoustics as fill in the back.
  18. viper501
    Alcantera is not a synthetic, it is the opposite side of the leather that you usually see. The innards:p!! side. The innards of leather is suede. Alcantara is a synthetic suede. Probably a lot better idea as it is stain resistant and more stable.
  19. viper501
    donuts, I thouht of doings something similar but have decided that the assembly of the halogen housings is not separable like many of the composite headlights. Or at least, they do not appear to be without subjecting the housing to almost certain destruction. The BMW technique of shake and bake is not going to work (BTDT). The housing appears to be held together with a non-thermoset style adhesive (almost looks like an RTV). Good luck though. I'd love to see someone figure out a way to do it.
  20. viper501
    Keep us posted on your progress. There is a lot of information here but you can also look at rennlist.com and 6speedonline.com . Rennlist tends to be a bit more tech than 6speed but neither seem to have as much tech information as here.
  21. viper501
    Joe, Majority of the problem is that the engines are so blooming expensive and there really aren't that many of them relative to the SBC's. Therefore, the learning curve can be fairly expensive. I think there is someone on Rennlist, or maybe 6speed, doing his own centrifigal s/c build. Ruf did this ... http://euroautoforums.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1408 ... while it looks like a 997, the interior shows it is really a 996. The back end also shows that it has twin turbos with the IC's old school style on top of the engine. Also, the turbo cars (TT and GT2) and the GT3 use a substantially different block than the m96 that is installed in the 996/97 cars. It is much stouter and is really more a water cooled version of the 993 engines. Presumably, this is because the m96 can't take the boost levels that the TT/GT engines can handle.
  22. viper501
    I think Ruf has done it, although I'm not sure what they have done to the internals. IIRC, compression on the 3.4 is something like 11:1 so I don't think you want too much boost going into the engine and tuning better be spot on. I'd suggest you keep the Goat for high HP and enjoy the 996 as is. Replacing that engine is not what I would call cheap. BTDT.
  23. viper501
    Ugh. Remving the transaxle is reallly not difficult, assuming you can get the thing on a lift or really high jackstands. Good to hear that they are standing behind their work. Keep us posted.
  24. viper501
    Call Powerhaus and find out what gives?
  25. viper501
    Glad it was that simple! :renntech:
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