viper501

I discovered a strange alarm issue this week. I had posted earlier that my car does not beep when I leave the glove compartment open (in the rear center console) and lock the doors. I have checked the plug-in wire underneath, and it seems OK.

Because I'm never quite sure if the car is locked when I press my key (and as I'm paranoid parking in a public garage), I try to open the door right away to make sure it is locked. Lately, when I do this, the car beeps (once)--this is fine for me as it confirms that everything is locked and that the alarm is on. Any ideas what might be going on?

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I could be wrong on this but my understanding was that the beep indicated that the interior ultrasonic sensor was selected to be disabled. The manual indicates that this occurs when the fob is pressed twice in quick succession and beeps the horn to signal that it has received the signal and disabled the interior sensor. However, my car has now started doing this even though I have not pressed the button twice. :cursing: :help:

Any DIY'er notes for adjusting the latch on the trunk (bonnet)?  When I "pop" the trunk via the release inside the vehicle it does not raise itself up anymore.  Any suggestion on how to adjust this to its former glory?

If I pry my fingers in the gap I can lift the trunk-lid up enough to use the release (as normal), but its a PITA doing so...

Thanks!

Tim

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Amen! Mine has the same problem and despite my attempts at adjusting it, there hasn't been any significant improvement. I've adjusted both the latch mechanism itself and the small rubber bumpers on the hood. A TSB would be *wonderful*. :help:

Jim, I think the K&N may serve some purposes, especially when the filter element has been fully loaded with debris/dirter. However, the tests I've seen that compare flow rates for 'new' OEM and K&N show no difference in flow rates. However, the data indicates some lesser filtration by K&N compared to OEM paper. If I can find the links to the testing, I'll post 'em here. That said, I think your method for avoiding excess oiling is a great idea. :thumbup:

I wonder if there is such a thing as a hypo car driac?

The condensors sit in front of the radiators, I think you can get your hand through the openings in the front PU, although it may need a small child or trained monkey if you've got big hands.

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monkey on backorder

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The TSB indicates that Monkey v.4.2 has been replaced and superseded by Monkey v.4.4x but only for VIN ranges over 23242. :D

Folks,

I am toying with the idea of changing my wheels on my car. The wheels I am considering are the Kinesis F110's (http://www.kinesismotorsport.com/f110.htm)

The sizes are 19x11 rear with 305x25x19- tires and 19x8.5 front with 225x30x19. The rear tires seem wide for a narrow body 996 but they swear they fit.

I am looking for some general feedback as to whether this is a good move or not. I really like the wheels but do have some concerns about ride, as I expect it to be a bit more rough and also the ride height. In other words, would I need to lower my car to make it look right? I would rather not.

What do you folks think? Also, can you provide me with any pictures of a narrow body 996 with 19's on it that has NOT been lowered.

Thanks in advance.

Jay

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Rumor has it that 19's are too big for our cars. I don't have any personal knowledge though. If you want some feedback, and possibly a good set of used wheels, there is a guy in Roadfly selling a set of Champion RG5's in 19 that came off of a 996. See http://www.roadfly.com/porsche/classifieds...ew.php?view=263 for more info. I was looking at them but more money than I want to spend. Good looking wheel though ...

Kind of what I suspected but was curious. Always trying to answer previously asked questions without actually taking up bandwidth, and other people's time, asking them. I hate that my 99 doesn't have a glovebox to put the dang owner's manual packet in.

I hesitate to say it, but I think my MAF coded check engine light has been banished. Was getting the P1128(?) code indicating MAF issues. Took it to Porsche and they said it was intermittent and had occured five times during a three day period. I suspected that the previous owner's K&N filter may have been a contributor so I picked up an exhorbitantly overpriced paper factory filter from them while I was there. (The only good thing is that they didn't charge me for the ECU check :D )

Anyway, replaced it and cleared the codes out. Been two days of fairly heavy driving and idling with no CEL at all. Had a MAC scanner hooked up to it to log the data if it popped up and it never did. :clapping:

So, anyone want to buy a dirty K&N panel filter for a 996?

The Aircon on my MY99 996 doesn't seem to be anywhere near as cold as any other car I've had. 

 

It blows well and the climate control seems to work because it does control the level of the blowing automatically. 

 

The air coming through the vents is cooler than the outside but it's not ice cold. 

 

Is this normal? 

 

Thanks

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Check the a/c condensor in the front bumper opening. As pointed out by someone else, that puppy can get full of nasty debris resulting in restricted airflow through the condenser and poor cooling in the car. :thumbup:

From the California Highway Patrol:

Can I put after-market tinting on the windows of my vehicle?

The main requirements for legal window tinting in California .... except as provided in subdivision (B), ©, or (d) of Section 26708.

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I think that's what you need to look at. I'd bet that there is a loophole for people with a vision "issue". Also, I'd bet that you could do a *very* light tint all the way around and no one would notice. It'd just have to be even and very light. I've been told by more than one tint place on more than one occasion that the lowest level tints filter UV as well as the darkest stuff.

I took a look at this while my car was up on the lift Saturday. OMG! It was *disgusting*. The previous owner had clearly never even bothered to look. I can't believe that I had a/c working still. Cleaned it out and found that the a/c worked much better and the coolant temps were down too! Next time the bumper cover comes off its gonna get a *real* cleaning. Thanks for the heads up!

I sent you a PM.

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It might be nice to share the answer with the rest of us if possible?

The BMW guys bake their lights at 225 (I think??) for about 20 minutes to soften the glue and allow them to separate the halves. Not sure I'd like to do that with a good light though. Probably could find a junked one to experiment on first.