cayenneturbo

I used same face plate, used my Dremel and a file. I was torn between bumper and rear wing, as I was trying for a discreet look. Bumper came out fairly well and I can plug hole with "Bumper Plugs" if need be. I went with the actual Alpine camera for plug and play purposes. It was real easy. I also chose bumper because of easier wiring. It was straight forward, pull bumper off, drill hole after marking of course and running wires to deck. More patience than anything, no hiccups at all. The Kenwood was killing me, literally with the lag. New units are no different. The interface is so much faster and responsive. Maps take a getting used to. I did/do prefer the Kenwood layout, but that is the only thing I would carry over. I like the POI's and how you can filter. I have always been a Pioneer guy up until 3 years ago and now with the Most-hur, I am stuck with either alpine or kenwood.

So I had the Kenwood in for 3 years, it was ok. The head unit itself had a lot of glitches in my opinion for a "Flagship" model. It was slow, very slow and not that responsive to touch were my major complaints. I have since just updated to the new Alpine INE-Z928HD. Since I use the Nav-tv Most HUR I have only Kenwood and Alpine to choose from. Kenwood made this real easy, no major improvements same slow interface. Well I absolutely love this Alpine, very fast and sensitive to touch. The 8" screen fills in the dash super nice. I really love the HD radio incorporated into it, it displays cover art!!!!. I added some extras this time, I did keep my SiriusXm (love it for my Fox news fix on the way to work) and the old 30pin iPod adapter. I added reverse cam and a HMDMI to composite converter. This converter is great, it is powered by USB and it will convert HDMI signal to composite. I use it connect my iPhone 5 and use the mirror display. I used it last weekend to keep kids entertained with Netflix. I just use iPod adapter as video hardrive, I have an old 120GB ipod that I have tons of movies loaded on now for long trips. I have the aux output sent to my center video console as shown in the my original post: The hardest part of install (most frustrating) was getting the boot screen converted to Porsche logo. The poopoo heads at Alpine will not release how to do it. Unlike Kenwood where there is forum for hack and mods there is no forum for Alpine. I am still shocked by this. Alpine wants only "Flagship Installers" to do this mod, called one up and they want to charge $100. In short, I have acquired instructions from a friend of friends kid who works at a installer. What really ticks me off is that it took less than 3 min to do. I have included (if possible) a formatted Porsche logo, the one I am using. Instructions and pics below, enjoy: Alpine Boot Screen instructions (as usual, attempt at your own risk) -Picture: Save as BMP, 24bit , 800x480 (24bit = 8bit x 3 color channels) Save onto fresh formatted USB drive and connect to USB port of radio -Press and hold the "Band" soft key on radio screen for 2+ sec -Press the dual screen soft key once (lower right) -Press telephone hardkey once -Press volume down button Please Wait will appear and it will automatically reboot with Porsche Logo I have screen shots sent to me of the page from actual instruction manual, but I don't want to get sued for copyright etc etc. Since the HDMI converter is run via USB, I got a generic 12v accessory female reciever and wired to the acc switch, so it is only powered when car is on. Then installed a dual USB charger and connect the iPhone and HDMI cords to this. So this will autmatically turn on when car is on and shut off when car is off. This will also charge the iPhone too. Original PCM Radio - yuck ! Old Kenwood New Alpine Glovebox connections: HDMI cord/Lightning cord to adapter, Alpine 30 pin ipod cord with USB,,,,, no dual USB on this unit. Mirror display HD Radio with Cover art and TV button for iPhone Rearview Camera, comes automatically when you put into reverse These are the extras items I bought with links below: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZZQ5EY/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080KN18K/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Change from jpeg to BMP If this does not work you can download from my dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/czhxzmh1lskohvg/Alpine%20Porsche%20Logo%20800%20x%20480.bmp

I ordered a used radiator fan and it came in today. I am worried now that they may have sent me the wrong one. I cant seem to find the Porsche part number on it. My worry is that it is for a 6 cylinder Cayenne vs what I need for my 04 Turbo. I believe that there is a difference. I have attached pics of part numbers I can see. I just dont want to tear everything apart to find out I have the wrong replacement fan. Than you

I am pretty sure that it is the fan itself since my research has told me that the fan switch is built in. My electronic manuals that I bought here are on my home computer, does anyone have a DIY or instructions on removal of fans? Thanks

I had the coolant pipe replaced replaced 10K miles ago so the coolant is fresh and I dont see any debris in the radiator. I also wanted to add that my oil temp does not rise with coolant temp.

My 04 CTT has been running hotter than normal. I thought as I was driving that it was just the 122 Arizona temps yesterday. Then I noticed the fans were not running when I shut off the car as they normally would. So far this is what I know. Duremetric - No codes Both fans work Large fan goes to a higher speed when A/C is turned on With A/C off the fans will come at around 200 but the speed of the fans are low/slow Fuses are good It maintains regular temps in town between 180-220, but goes above 220 on the highway especially above 70 Any ideas? Thank you.

It is your battery. One of them is going dead, most likely the front. I started by charging both from the fron using C-Tek....nothing. I then removed the rear and charged it with regular charger, still nothing. Took the front out and connected it my charger and it read 13v so I just put it back in and BAM! it was back. I am figuring that it just needed a reset.

I have lost my "Comfort Setting" and started to look into battery issues. I have the dual battery set up. I first plugged the C-Tek under the hood, battery light indicator was red and after a night charge it was green. Still no comfort settings. This all happened after I got car back from getting tires changed out and my wife used the spare key which resets the comfort setting to factory. When I went in to change back the option was gone! So I am hoping and assuming they left the key in the ignition (even though i said not too) while they changed out the tires. So today I removed my rear battery....easiest....and it is on my real battery charger. It read at 12.5 or 80% charge. I was still able to start the car, which I thought to be weird because I thought the rear battery was used for only starting the car. I did it just to see if I could. I connected the C-Tek charger under the hood and the indicator was red. Hoping an overnight charge will resolve the problem. I replaced the battery under the seat 2 summers ago so it is still under warranty thankfully!. But I was wondering if I can connect a battery charger to the posts under the hood while second battery is removed or do I need to full remove the battery from the car? Last thing i want to do is fry the electronics. Thanks!!

I was thinking about going with 20" tire & wheel combo too, but different reasons. I have 19's on my turbo. Would I be sacrifing comfort if I go up to 20's.....would I be sacrificing performance if I go down to 18's? I'm trying to find a cheaper alternative to 19's, but some Cayennes with 18's the rims look oddly small and those I've seen with 20 or 21's look like they have no rubber.

Wife used our spare key which resets comfort settings. So I went to adjust (doors, alarm etc). The comfort settings option was absent from menu. This happened a few years ago when we first got it, it turned out to be the ignition switch was set to using one battery vs both. The dealership gave me directions for reset. I just can't remember the steps to reset. It was something like holding key to right or left for few seconds plus something else. I did first think it was the battery because I also had taken car to have tires put on and thought they left key in ignition and battery was drained so I charged battery overnight with CTEK, with effect. Both batteries replaced last year. Does anyone know the key process I'm referring to?

Headed from Florida to California and yesterday on day two I was getting intermittent lags in power during hwy driving. I happened less than 6 x's, But when we pulled over to refill, I stepped on the gas nothing happened which caused me to hit the peddle and then the car reacted. The car never acted as if was going to stall, rather as if the gas peddle was not working. The Durametric pulled 2 codes P08B1 and P08?? (forgot to write down)- both were same just bank 1 and bank 2 temperature. Just had the car looked over at the dealer, oil changed no issues. The only change is that I went from using real gas (no ethanol) to standard 10% ethanol at the gas station and I have been towing a small enclosed trailer (2000 lbs filled). We're in Dallas now and on the fence about taking it to the dealer. It is not doing it anymore, and i don't know if what to break down in middle of nowhere Texas etc.

Has anyone used the Durametric to calibrate the air suspension?

Well the Yellow "Air Susp Faulty...." is on permanently now. I always forget, which one is the main battery? The one under the seat or the one in the rear? The one in the rear is original, but I replaced the one under the seat about a year ago. No other electrical issues with the car. I bought the rebuild kit from local VW dealer using the part # supplied via the DIY, it was very cheap. It is due to arrive Wed. When I say cheap, it was quoted at $20. I figured at that price (if the right part shows up) and less than an hour of time to rebuild is worth it. Also, still no codes on the Durametric.

I just got the car back yesterday from having the valve body and TCM replaced at the dealer then all of a sudden completely out of the blue the "Air Suspension" warning light appeared, then disappeared,........ This happened about a half of dozen times, some times it would alarm and then disappear an other times it would remain on the screen as still faulty. No error codes on the Durametric. I have it connected to my v-tech Porsche charger overnight...... I am hoping it is battery related. Maybe the dealer left the key in the ignition? The battery under the drivers seat was replaced last summer, the batter in the rear is still original. I am hoping this is the fix. everything else works find, raises and lowers etc Any ideas of what it could be? Thanks

I love the enclosed look of the rear lower bumper of the 08 or 09 + Cayennes. Will the rear bumper fit on the earlier models? Can I just replace the bottom or would I need to replace the whole bumper?

There are no Indy Shops that I could find in the Pensacola Florida area, closest ones are about 60+ miles away near the dealer. There are no codes, I have the Durametric and ran the diagnostic each time the tranny would do it and nothing. I could live with it, but my fear is that I would need to replace the whole tranny, which is what the Dealer said was my other option. Has anyone installed the Sonnax Valve Body? Would it be better than buy a Valve body from Sunset/Suncoast and finding an Indy to install?

So I took my 04 CTT to the Dealer in Destin Florida (no indy's in Pensacola that I know about) for an oil change and check up. I asked to diagnose a tranny issue of a hard shift with thud from 5th to 4th under heavy acceleration. He came back with below estimate: Hydrolic Valve unit $1120.27 Transmission Control Unit $297.17 Tiptronic oil $474.20 ($47.42 x10) Transmission pan seal $58.40 Drain Ring $8.07 Transmission filter $42.71 Transfer case gear oil $139.74 ($69.87 x 2) Differential gear oil F & R $254.88 (63.72 x 4) Parts Total: $2352.73 Labor: tu 600 for Hydrolic Valve Unit and Tip Oil Change, Trans filter/Seal Replacement tu 180 for Transmission Control Unit tu 70 for Transfer Case Gear Oil Change tu 150 for Differential Gear Front and Rear Change Total tu 1000 or $1200 Total Repair - $ 3552.72 Now CTT is getting ready to hit 100K miles (thats 60K miles in 2 1/2 years....lots of driving) So I guess the fluids are due for change, but do i need to do all this? Any help is greatly appreciated!

We're thinking about buying a boat, but the dry weight of the boat is 7000lbs, the trailer will be anywhere from 1000 to 1200 lbs, add an extra 200 lbs for gas/boat equipment and I am looking at 8500 lbs. The literature states 7,700 towing capacity. I have a TT, if this was my old Yukon I would just pull it,pull slow and always monitor the engine and oil temp, trany temp etc. But this is my Porsche! Any advice or warnings?

My experience is the same.. new rotors and new pads. I went with Hawk due to dust, but it does not even perform near to OEM. It's a choice you have to make ... cleaner wheels or braking power. I have to admit it is nice to see the wheels not be black within a day after a wash. Just a side note: I installed my set last June and have put over 10k and they are not getting better.

I know the answer is probably both......but, which battery needs replacing? The front one or the one in the rear? Thanks

For past couple weeks now my car has been acting wierd. It some times acts as if the power has been disconected. Also, after startng up it will display " Start Engine" and the engine will be running. Also the Drivers corner light and signal light (front) constantly states it is out and the bulbs are good, and the beams look as if they are bouncing around trying to adjust it self. All this started when we moved here to Pensacola Florida......where the closest dealership is 50 miles away and I have yet to find a reputable indy shop here... not that I have been looking hard. So if anyone knows of a Indy here place pass on the info. Thnx

I have a an 04 Turbo and I will be using a hitch cargo carrier w/ 500 lbs max. I need to haul some concrete and don't want to blow my rear suspension. I will be hauling about 400 lbs on the carrier and just need to know what is the max internal cargo weight I can load. It will be with me, one passenger and full tank of gas. Thanks

Not Cayenne related, but we just moved from AZ to Florida and need t order new checks. I have searched unsuccessfully for Porsche orientated checks. Of course Cayenne checks would be great, but anything Porsche related would be nice. Does anyone know where to get these from? Thanks

Well, mine was a bit more expensive. To start off with was a $500 tow to my indy. I tried to get them to use Sunset, but they wouldn't . So instead of $980 quote from Sunset, I ended up paying $1200. Since it is an updated part, I had to replace both plus some sensors. In the end I was out $3900 including the tow and alignment. The odd thing is my car looks like it is riding a lot higher. I measured from the ground to center lip at each tire and got: Loading: 35" Low 36" Normal 37 I have 19" stock rims on stock size tires. Is right? I did a seach and could not find what the measurments should be.

We are about 350 miles away from stuck in middle of no where Arizona. My front driver air strut blew, first the metal casing popped and by the time I pulled over the airspring blew. Can I drive it home with a blown air spring without damaging anything else. My only alternative is a 350 mile tow home. We spending the night in a hotel. I'm hoping to drive home in the am. Also does anyone know how to shut off the airsuspension so that UT won't try to level/adjust all the time? I'm doing this all from BB Storm and it very slow and taxing. Thanks in advance for any help!