Izzy

I have never done this, but thought you could fix it with something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...sspagenameZWDVW

I just completed the 30K mile service on my car yesterday, belt, spark plugs, brake bleed (from track event), clutch bleed, and added radiator debris cleaning for good measure as a winter to-do.

Since I was doing so much, I got the car up on jacks, remove all wheels. Also decided to remove rear bumper cover, heat shields, and mufflers including the muffler mounting bracket. In all it added about 30 mins as my Dad was helping out.

I have replaced plugs in my other 996 before with just the rear wheels removed. And I wanted to tell you that replacing the plugs with all the other parts removed was a world of difference. Lots of room to get to the bolts and remove the plugs. For the small added time, I would STRONGLY recommend it as you could spend a lot less time in the long run struggling and cursing. I know, I still remember.

Lee, they are fine, I have used both. The weighted ones are probably the Mintex.

The click all the way down and coming back up is the switch that lets you turn the engine on. Should have always been there, I think

Look at this thread, wondering if the alarm battery is the culprit

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...m+battery\

or the 15 amp fuse on the unit could be out. Look under the seat as Loren suggested

Another option to the Fabspeed CAI is the Schnell one. Seems to be the same but a lot less $$. The DIY section has other options as well.

http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/197891%...%20Schnell.aspx

The smells can drive you crazy on a 996. I came from a deadly quiet non-smell 740i, the 996 was like "what the %$^*!! smells. Had the car inspected and it was all perfect. Watch your coolant leve for sure, but eventually I got used to it.

You can try this service:

http://sgs-ebay.sgsauto.com/

or you can ask the owner to take it to a local dealer at your expense, you can pay the dealer directly.

Correct on your pre-flame-cognition, you should only use Porsche approved "N" tires inflated by approved trained technicians using clean bavarian pressurized air bottled and imported. And the tires have to be super high speed "Y" rated tires, in case you have to drive at Autobahn (175mph+) speeds on your way to Starbucks.

Or, do like I do, and buy Falkens FK452s for the daily driver. Great tire for dry and wet, look good, easy on the wallet. I do change to Azenis for track days as I do break the sound barrier now and again. Also had used Kumhos before, they are just as good.

PV=nRT

Long discussion on nitrogen on this thread

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;hl=nitrogen

I would be surprised if the 36-44 pressures where done post any kind of tracking. I made the mistake last weekend, inflated my track tires to drive to VIR to 36-42. Saturday morning I was talkng to friends in the paddock and heard the call for my group, got the helmet on and drove to the grid. Air temp was around 41F. After abour 5 laps, having a difficult time turning, realized that I forgot to lower my pressures pre-track. The car drove like a pig. I kept going but slowed down to turn.

Got off track, and measure the pressure to be 45-53, zepelin pressure. Lowered to 32-37 hot, and the next track time the tires had a grip like a 4 year-old on a Sponge Bob movie. I use the Falken Azenis RTs, 275-35-18's rears work fine for me.

Hmm, that information helps a bit. With that many miles, the O2 sensor(s) could be toasted. But definitely clean the MAF first, it is probably gunky. While you are it, you may want to clean the throttle body. If the codes come back post cleaning, you may need to get the sensors or MAF.

Oh, and 663 now....

You can drive it. If you become a contributing member, you will have access to a significant amount of DIY information, manuals, etc. For example do a search for "1128" and you will find two pages full of threads on the subject and how other members dealt with it, pictures, etc. If you have some tools and determination/inclination, you can do it. Most common problems with a 996 can be done by you (with the knowlege and tools).

The cleaning of the MAF would be what I do first in your case, since it will cost you $2 in MAF cleaning spray at Autozone. What is the miles and year of your car? You may need a new MAF, or O2 sensor perhaps. Both easy to do on your own.

Safety first, if you are going to work on the car, get some decent jack stands (and jack), and search here for other simple tools like wooden ramps to make the job easier. Welcome to this little community!

Izzy

First thing you need to do is read the codes that generated the CEL. Can be as simple as a fuel lid not fully closed, a dirty MAF, or oil filler cap not fully seated. But if you do not know anyone with a OBDII code readers, go to an "autozone" or similar place where they will lend you the unit to read your codes. Write them down and then erase them, bring the codes back and many members can help you with them. Did it happen shortly after filling up wiht gas or getting and oil change? Checking the oil level with the dipstick?

Follow this thread for the potetial problem:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...rn+signal\

Did it happen when you retired and moved to Florida? If so, you are allowed to drive for miles and miles with the turn signal on then... :drive:

The sound is growing on me. I did drive 2.5 hours to VIR and back, plus a full day or driving on track. And the sound is phenomenal on track, awesome response. Driving to the track with new XM radio, it was not bad at all either. But agree with you, it is a cool cool sound, specially when the engine is idling the gurgling sound comes out....

For your convinience, here is the clearance you may get if you decide to remove bumper cover and mufflers. For some (like me with XXL glove hands) it could be easier to get to the bolts on the shield and the plugs. You can see the hex bolts for the coils on the first picture, the second is the harder to reach bolt on the shield (but easy to see here)

Hans,

to remove the rear bumper cover on a 99,

Then for muffler removal, this link may be helpful:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16935

The heat shield is key of course. I find it easier to work on the plugs with the rear wheels removed too.

Hi,

You do not need to remove the bumper or exhaust. I was able to change both sides by removing the tires. Having some flexibility really does help.

Good luck.

Hans asked for instructions on how to remove the bumper, so I provided them to him. He can decide if he needs to do that or not, we all have different body styles and dexterity.

If you need a whole key, then yes, you have to buy the whole thing and reprogram it. If all you need is the remote, the dealer can replacet he metal key with the new remote head and program it. Dealer do charge different amounts for that job. You may want to post your location and members may know of other places that would do the same job for less

Hans,

to remove the rear bumper cover on a 99,

Then for muffler removal, this link may be helpful:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16935

The heat shield is key of course. I find it easier to work on the plugs with the rear wheels removed too.

New Dealer rotors can run you $112 to $120 each, in my experience.

Something else I forgot to mention Pilot, that I do and works well most of the time when a gear decides to not cooperate. For example, 40F outside, getting to 1st gear is a bear, so I depress clutch pedal, go to second, and then first. May have to do it a couple of times, but seems to work like a charm. Same thing between 4th and 3rd.

I just remembered since I had to do it last night.

As far as I remember, every manual transmission I have had is stiff shift when the cold (less than 40F) weather hits. Always happens when first driven cold, and lasts about 5-10 mins. Take it to the dealer, make sure all your fluids are up to snuff, but it doesn't seem to be out of the ordinary to me.

Miko, congrats, and download the manual from the "Quick Menu" link on the top of the page. The 2003 manual is loaded and there.