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wross996TT

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Everything posted by wross996TT

  1. After 1500 miles you will be deaf....? Europipes are the best!
  2. Well said Pilot...I have the SR7 with shifters (essentially the SRX). It has not gone off once in over a year. But before I got it I got a nasty ticket. Mine is installed pretty stealthy...very difficult to see from the outside and quickly hideable from the inside (in the cd rack).
  3. Sounds like it has had some work done...maybe ECU chipped. I would get the over revs read and any other codes (PPI should do this, but just be sure).
  4. You do not have to have lights flashing for the ECU to record codes. Hook up a PST2, PIWIS or Durametric and read the codes...
  5. Get the codes read...you are in limp which could be a number of things...perhaps a leak, MAF,...anyway too many possibilities. Get the codes read.
  6. 0.8 is great! Get an ECU flash and see 1.0-1.1! I assume your octane is RON...so it is like ~94 PON (R+M/2)
  7. What was the temperature, humidity, barometric pressure? What altitude? What octane gas? Was the .8 sustained or just a spike? What gear were you in? what RPM?
  8. With X50 (or S version) you will get 0.9-1.0, Without you will get 0.7-0.8...some of which depends on environmental conditions, fuel, etc.
  9. WOT = wide open throttle...just floor it in 3rd and 4th and watch what bar you hit and sustain (not spikes). Thanks, it is a TechArt GTS Type II (got from Arling @lucent)...the full description of mods is in the link in my sig.
  10. Chatters with the clutch disengaged...loader with AC on. I'm in a cab and it doesn't bother me, but it might bother some. Just engage the clutch and no more sound...or crank up the tunes!
  11. Using the stock gage...run WOT in fourth and fifth...see what boost is sustained. You should be getting .8-.9 if the car is stock.
  12. I'm running a Sachs stage 2 Race clutch w/LWFW...got it from Kevin @Ultimatemotorwerks...Awesome!
  13. Thank you for the compliment. If you click on the link in my sig., all of the mods are listed...Europipe Stage 2 Quiets.
  14. 360.805.9066 Kevin Matwichuk. Cheers
  15. Thanks WrossTT! Since I am not sure what the comparison shows, would you mind summarizing/interpreting?.....I'm a total novice. thanks!! The table doesn't align well, but there are seven columns of information....bottom line is you want to keep the % differences to a minimum (some is OK). Less difference is better...or you could get poor performance/wear/psm...I believe you should strive for less than 1% difference.
  16. comparison (theoretical) Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference 225/40-18 3.5in 12.5in 25.1in 78.8in 804 0.0% 295/30-18 3.5in 12.5in 25.0in 78.4in 808 -0.5% 235/40-18 3.7in 12.7in 25.4in 79.8in 794 1.3% 315/30-18 3.7in 12.7in 25.4in 79.9in 793 1.4%
  17. Oil consumption on these cars varies...with usage, environment, driving style. It is certainly not Outside of expected variation for it to consume that amount of oil. That being said, those that do not experience this will tell you it is way too much...for the mileage you want to do...and the fact you may mod it anyway...what the heck. You only live once!
  18. So you go to the factory and have them leave it out of your car as this is what is delivered in the new car?...seems like the biggest waste of time and money for a mod I have ever heard. My favorite mod...exhaust (Europipe Stage 2), then GT3 seats...the rest were fun as well.
  19. Usually, for P-cars, set camber negative and toe positive to reduce oversteer. You were probably used to the camber/toe settings before (which is why your car handled so well). You give up handling for even wear.
  20. Thanks, but not everbody loves the track...I prefer speed in a CAB!
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