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But if the fault is still there, the codes will come back. As JFP suggests, without the codes it's just a guessing game. Lots of reasons to lose boost. Most often this is a vacuum leak somewhere, waste gate issue, MAF, etc.
First, please tell us details of your car (MY, model, any mods, etc.). Then I suggest you get the codes read using either Durametric or one of the Porsche diagnostic tools. There are many possible events that could cause these symptoms from bad ground strap to immobilizer went bad. Start with the codes.
Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1& 2 Above Limit Possible fault cause ♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor ♦ Intake air system leaking ♦ Fuel pressure too low ♦ Volume supply of fuel pump too low ♦ Fuel injectors fouled ♦ PCV valve leaks ♦ Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged Cleaning the MAF may or may not work. You can try running without the MAF (though this will throw other codes) to see if it comes back. O2 sensors could be bad or there could be connection problems (though not sure why both went at the same time?). Check your fuel pressure. Exhaust system leaks. Fuel injectors fouled. When was your last service and what was done?
A poor battery can run many things on the car but still not have enough juice to start it. First thing I'd do is replace the battery. BTW, trickle charging a bad battery does NOT help. You can not resuscitate a bad battery.
No not a fuel pressure test, but the entire sealed boost pressure test for leaks. like this, though there are simpler ones. Boost pressure leak testing, simplified... - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Turbo Forum - Boost pressure leak testing, simplified... - Boost pressure testing on our turbos is pretty critical to maintaining performance. Not uncommon at all to have some small and medium size leaks and not know it. It won't throw a CEL, and you'll often still... You definitely should replace plugs and coils. Get the upgraded 997 coils.
There are number of tire size calculators available on the web. These give theoretical comparisons and ratios. It is best to measure the actually rolling diameter of each wheel/tire as inflated. Porsche recommends less than 2% difference front to back. Consensus is to have the front tires the larger of the two.
After you get the appropriate codes, there is a grocery list of things to check. Typically, coils and plugs are the culprits, but since you just had them changed...make sure they were installed correctly and gapped correctly....swap out the ones that are misfiring with ones that aren't?...Did you do a pressure check? Wastegate, N75 Valve....
Other than the tune, could you please provide more info on your car? What other mods are there? When was the last time you changed plugs/coil packs? Cleaned the TB? or reset the throttle adaptation?
Best to give Todd a call or email for sure. My guess is it would still be safe, but whether you get all of the performance you want is another question. Protomotive - Building the World's Fastest Porsches WWW.PROTOMOTIVE.COM
Of course it's your call. You might be able to find a used stock intake on ebay or somewhere. I thought the BMC filter is also lightly oiled. I can't speak for you, but if it were me, I'd get rid of whatever the heck you have in there. Two issues with the MAF...potential oil contaminating the MAF or turbulent airflow. I have used a BMC filter for 15 years with no issues.
Yes, typically there will be codes. Sometimes these appear as ABS/PSM codes....but sometimes the car just runs poorly. In any case you should have the codes read on your car with Porsche specific code reader (e.g., Durametric, PST2, PIWIS). Those circular filters tend to disrupt airflow over the MAF causing voltage spikes in the MAF. Sometimes killing the MAF or sending strange signals to the ECU.