wross996TT

Do you have access to Durametric or PIWIS (or PST2)?  There are  multiple possibilities from the simple: fuses, ignition switch, battery to the costlier: ECU, alarm immobilizer ...and the costs to fix can get high.

You may already know this:

P1358

Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2– Below Limit

Possible fault cause

Solenoid hydraulic valve is triggered, camshaft does not switch into

early position

♦ Dirt in system

♦ Solenoid hydraulic valve mechanically blocked

Welcome.  Sounds like your car is nicely sorted.  Drive safe.

As Loren suggests, we need more info.  My hunch is you have a grounding problem somewhere.

So there are a couple of possibilities...there are sensors to determine if the roof is in the right positions.  If any sensor or microswitch is damaged or the connection is bad the system can not detect "where" the top is and won't complete the cycle.  Are there any fault codes (you'll need a Porsche diagnostic tool)?  It may just need calibration (also with a Porsche diagnostic tool).  Have you tried to manually operate the top?  The latching mechanism can be opened with an allen wrench.  I have attached some pictures for you.

I can only supply one data point for you.  I have mechanically opened and closed the top when I had issues years ago, and the electronic actuation did not stop.  I'm not exactly sure what calibration actually does?  But in my case it was not necessary to get the top working again.

8 hours ago, booe said:

 

 

wross:  How likely would two bad ignition switches give similar electrical issues?  I don't mind getting another since they are so cheap, but it seems unlikely both would be giving the same exact problems. 

 

Thanks again!

Funny you're asking a statistician about the probability of two switches failing...no idea.  What make is it?  The other possibility is faulty installation.

Since you replaced the ignition switch already, it could be installed incorrectly or a bad switch.  My guess is battery related.  When the batteries in these cars are less than full all kinds of electrical gremlins occur. 

you need a Porsche specific tool (PST2, PIWIS)

You'll need access to a PST2 or PIWIS to reprogram the new equipment.  Many independents have these or of course the Porsche dealerships...cost to do this may vary.

I think we are in violent agreement.  There is one pipe coming from the exhaust!!!!  this then cosmetically splits in two for the appearance of the twin exhaust.  This has NO affect on exhaust flow...

Um...this is what I have in the workshop manual:

Engine oil quantity Approx. 12.5 (2.71)

change quantity 8.5

(1.84)

with filter change 8.75

(1.90)

On September 3, 2016 at 9:26 AM, spooltime said:

 

This is incorrect as far as genuine factory tips are concerned.  The tubing is split at the rear and exhaust gasses exit through both sides.  Aftermarket quad tips may have one side sealed off, but the factory ones don't.

Sorry, you are mistaken for the X50 it is purely cosmetic.

 Macs wont cut it that's the reality. 

Uh, actually, I run Windows 10 in Parallel on a Mac...faster than most pcs...Durametric works fine on my Mac!

Many things can affect the feel of the car at speed.  Have you ever driven RWD with rear engine before?  Tire sizes and fills.  As above, alignment.  Possibly shocks or mounts.

What I would try first is resetting it to factory...using the operating lever, push lever down until set is highlighted, then push the lever forward.

So the time does seem a bit long...Have you read the codes that may be stored.  There are a series of sensors and potentiometers that must be activated in sequence in a certain period of time or the system will time out.  Has the top ever been calibrated?

So the manual says 20 seconds...cold temperatures may slightly effect this.  I use a light silicone on the hinge points.

When you say slow, could you actually give a time...make sure the hinge points on the frame are lubricated and check the cables for alignment and "tightness".

Hmmm, should be 4, each bank pre and post cats.  What do you mean "switched the MAF around?  There is only one way to properly install the MAF.

In any case, I would check the sensors and the connections, clean them first.

When you say you don't get any codes, I assume you have a Durametric/PST2/PIWIS to check...

Symptoms sound fuel related...small split in a hose inside the tank?  You say you replaced the fuel pump, did you test the full pressure...could be a shaky install?

You also might just make sure your battery is OK if it sat that long.  Battery gremlins on Porsche is...common.  Your fuel gage needs to be recalibrated.  You need to fill it and disconnect/reconnect the battery. (this may be why I suspect battery issues)

Others will chime in with their words of wisdom (from 1000 guesses) I'm sure.

If you want to go to Stevinson, get a hold of Chance....he knows his stuff.  Not in the North, but may be worth the trip.

Realize that the % differences you are quoting above are completely theoretical....unless you have actually measured the rolling diameters of the tires mounted...The Porsche recommendation is <3% and If I recall it is better to bias the difference to the fronts????

Just for reference, I run MPS2 235/35 315/25 on my 19" OZ rims

First do a search, the maintenance "issues" and what to look for have been covered numerous times on multiple forums...(Rennlist and 6Speed).  Are you buying it as an investment?  No one can predict the price of these things even next year...the high end car market is very dependent on economic circumstances.  Can you predict the housing market or stock market in 3 years?  Sounds like a garage queen...and in CO where the relative humidity is low, body is probably excellent.  No telling how it has been driven...check codes, get a PPI from Stevinson (ask for Chance).