wross996TT

Yep, finally had my tech order a stronger/better piece of fuel hose from Gates...no problems since.

The split in the fuel line is exactly what happened with my garage queen X-50 a couple of months back and it took 7 weeks in the shop to reach that conclusion. checked fuel pressure (good), replaced fuel filter, drained and replaced the fuel, the two fuel tank pick-up lines replaced

Anyhow, long story made even longer but just wanted to share in case someone else's car starts stuttering under boost. Don't immediately think spark plugs/coil packs...

Yeah, I can't understand how they did a fuel pressure test and it passed with a split in that line.  With the splits I had, the pump just pumped fuel right back into the tank.  I'm glad you got it fixed, but I'm not convinced the split in the line was the original cause of your symptoms.  With all the trial and error done, they could have caused the split...so don't assume the split gave the initial symptoms...

Hmmm....you just hold the open top button until it opens enough to access what you need (essentially the highest point the top reaches).  The clamshell in the back will be extended.

Yes, attached 

rearseatbeltscab.pdf

 

Is there a fuse on the back of the PCM 2 that could have blown.

 

I do not have the Radio code for the PCM 2 if I remove the Radio is the only way to recover a PCM 2 code via the dealer ?

 

Would a MOST fibre loopback restore audio to the car ?

 

 

There is a fuse on the amp.  The radio code is stored in the ECU for your year.  Loren & JFP covered the other.

Completely dependent on what you want....I had an SC cab and a 930 and got rid of both of them for my TT Cab...just nothing better than top down with 400+++HP.

The 996TT Cab is excellent...fairly quiet, quite reliable...never needed the hard top.  Very little effect on performance body stiffer all around great.

PS...I don't track my car nor do I want to.

I saw the PCM 2...for MOST, you'll have to something like Dension.

Looks like pre-MOST system...is yours a 2001?  If so should work fine

Hmmmm....Do you realize that you can not actually adjust the temperature of the air the AC system output.  The controls simply activate the system or turn it off.  Of course the fans are there to circulate the air and their speed can be adjusted.

Now it is possible the AC unit refrigerant has issues, but this is not something you adjust per se.

To echo Loren's Q's...many folks that replace the accumulator also do the slave...perhaps because you are already in there or their failures are somewhat correlated.  I would think regardless you should bleed the system...a little air is bad!

If you are looking for opinions, I am happy to oblige.  I don't like the hardtop.  It is a PIA to store and inconvenient to remove/install.  The soft top is more than adequate for weather protection when necessary.  I specifically requested no hard top when I bought my TT new.  But it is just MHO.

Hmmm...all three times my fuel line ruptured I couldn't get the car to start at all...so IMHO, your symptoms are atypical of fuel line rupture...

I think Loren read...mafless...and thought misfire...I know he reads a lot of posts.  I'm with RFM...I would inspect the brakes physically (mechanically).

Yeah you're speaking to the choir...LOL

Did you inspect the plugs and coil packs for indications of performance?

Excuse my rant...Just be aware that every time you go and change parts out you increase the chance of not re-assembling correctly (loose fittings, etc.).  Also your approach doesn't lend itself to actually understanding the issue.  The methodology of having a symptom, taking an action (e.g., replacing parts) and having the symptom go away (since there really is no measure of your issue....just feel) and concluding it was the last action you took (the "fixed" the problem) is not even close to a suitable methodology for understanding the cause.

The sensors are not a performance item...they either work or they don't. Replacing them early just costs you time and money, and proves nothing...but of course it is your time and money so do whatever you wish.

Get Durametric code reader (it will come in useful since you like to tinker).  And then get some actual data on the car's performance (like suggested by Loren).

Also make sure the connections are clean...I believe my sensor got hit once and had to be adjusted and re-calibrated.

I heard nothing unusual...of course I could not feel it...mine does not idle at that RPM.  I don't think anything is wrong.

I would contact Kevin.  He is very helpful and stands behind his work.  It might just be you need him to adjust the idle rpm...

Another possibility is the tune...anyway to flash back to stock?  Any idea who's tune it is? TMK, that reader is not capable of reading the Porsche codes as precisely as needed.  Try Durametric (unless you can get a hold of a PST2 or PIWIS)

Is the car stock? What coil packs did you use (upgraded 997's)?  Were the plugs gapped correctly?  TB should be cleaned.

And for reference here is the ultimate link to most known issues (thanks jp!):

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/252-the-porsche-996-twin-turbo-potential-issues/

Of course the closer to "identical" rolling diameters the better.  That being said, most folks are talking theoretical ratios anyway.  I mean seldom does anyone actually measure the rolling diameter of a tire and going by the tire size is completely theoretical (I am sure tire diameters vary).  Best to actually measure the tires and go from there.  I believe the "published" acceptable theoretical difference is 3% FWIW.

here is a video:

So looking at mine (although mine is a turbo), there are two threaded posts.  So I would think you to screw while applying downward (or upward) pressure as apparently the rather flimsy nuts are stripped.