wross996TT

What exactly do you mean by "hitting the rev limiter"?

I've used that MAF and did not have any issues. Unfortunately I've gone to hitachi MAF just for the reasons I was blowing my MAF from hitting rev limiter on my tune.

hmmmm. Hitting the rev limiter should have very little causation with the blown MAF (it may correlate). Since the airflow over the hot film may be unusual, it may cause spikes in the voltage and blow the MAF...

I would do a data log and send the file to Kevin.

Actually the ABS/PSM is likely the MAF....do you have an aftermarket air filter?

Do you have a LWFW? If you know who did the flash, you could get them to adjust the throttle up a bit. Of course other "guesses" would include MAF, DV's shot or a leak somewhere...

Is the car flashed? or stock?

So it is possible for the ECU to shut down the boost when it has reached a pre-programmed limit (like fuel, AFR, etc.). Get the codes read with a Porsche tool and report back.

The following information is required to teach the hand−held transmitter:

· Key learning code from IPAS

· 24−digit Code No. (see barcode label on key grip)

with this information and a Porsche tool (PST2/PIWIS) the keys can be programmed. Remember if you re-program one key, you will need to re-program all of them. The procedure starts on page 1155 of the workshop manual.

Perhaps your Indy does not have the PST2/PIWIS tool and that is why they can't program the key. I know mine can.

Sorry to hear about your difficulties. There is a reason why the slang "stealership" gets its name. I would have to say your complaints as to the cost of repairs is not that unusual. As far as getting Porsche parts at a reasonable price, I would have to say Sunset is one of the better shops, but parts is different from service. You say you have an indy to do repairs. Any indy who works on Porsche should have a PIWIS or a PST2. They should be able to program the key fob with these tools.

I'd have to say with your condescending attitude, you're not encouraging anyone to help you...regardless of your age.

Richard, as has been pointed out by other folks, we can't give specific advice on something we haven't done. That being said, since these seals are not a maintenance item, I doubt replacing them has been done often. Unfortunately you are probably going to have to go with the advice of the mechanic you are paying to do the work. Sorry about that.

Aero 303 as mentioned is the best. Also to be used on leather (that sees a lot of sunlight) as it contains a sunscreen component. Not a fan of the smell or feel after using lexol...I use Zaino for leather that comes in contact with skin.

If you do the slave, many also suggest you replace the accumulator as well. I went the GT2 conversion route and am quite pleased with the result FWIW.

The biggest issue with the previous version pumps was the ridiculous hose. Mine ruptured multiple times....until I had a custom rupture proof hose made. I don't believe the pump itself is any different. Are you sure the pump is actually bad or is it a bad hose?

Flashing the ECU with a better tune will help the lag, but realize the X50 has bigger turbos (K24s) vs. the standard TT which has K16s. If you really want to get rid of the lag, get hybrid turbos.

Hmmmm, been running 19" OZ rims with MPS2s 235/40 315/25 for 7 years now....none of the issues Dus10R claims...actually handles better than the stock rims I had.

Any input on vacuuming the cabrio top?

I do this without issue. I also use raggtopp once a year to wash and then seal. Of course I also keep my car covered IN the garage...LOL

As far as products (after trying many of the top ones) I use Aero 303 for plastic/synthetics and leather exposed to sunlight, exterior products are Zaino! Poorboys tire protectant.

I have heard others complain about this issue after they wash their cars, so it is not that unusual.

Or you could do the sportec:

Can't tell from the pic you posted (Too small)...yeah I could probably search for it, but too lazy.

There are very few intakes that add anything to the turbo IMHO. and some will fry MAFs....

Hi Men,

What is the part number of the hitachi maf u are using ?

Cheers

You do realize that you are asking a question on a thread that has been dormant for 4 years................

He has asked it in at least three forums on 5 threads...LOL

MY of car?

D7 might work (The hydraulics consists of a pair of fluid-filled pistons that look a lot like a pair of epoxy tubes. The pistons are driven by an electric motor. If you disconnect the power, e.g., by pulling the fuse, then the pistons can't move and there is no danger of a leak. The wing should stay in whatever position it is when you pull the fuse, though you will likely throw codes), but you will also not be able to open the bonnet...

Some folks suggest unplugging the harness (and replacing with a fixed wing harness for long term). Not sure of the long-term effects on the hydraulic rams.

Most folks would be happy with a deeper roar. Read any possible codes, but possible explanations (DV's, leaks) would likely affect performance as well.

First you need to tell us what car you have MY, model, etc. Then do you have any mods?